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Upgraded to a FX-8302E and I'm BSODing.

I'd agree with everyone else, those voltages are way out of spec.
Changing the PSU isn't hard, but it can be fiddly, especially if everything else has to be taken out to get access to it.

I'm currently using a Seasonic PSU and so far I've been very impressed. Seasonic and Superflower are both solid choices.
 
Scurburg said:
I dont think its your voltage, IMO its your PSU not supplying enough power, in which case upping the voltage will actually make it worse.
Click to expand...

It's a good idea for him to test before recommend that he rush out and buy a new PSU though?

I wouldn't rely on HWMonitor voltages being accurate either.

Scurburg said:
If you really want to try though, you will need to reboot and press del to enter bios. It should be under something like advanced settings, we are looking for vcore,
It will likely be set to auto. You either need to set it to +0.1 for offset mode (To bring your vcore up to about 1.2) or set it manually to 1.2 (dont put this for offset what ever you do)
Click to expand...

I would try this first.

At the end of the day FX8320E will be just a 125W model with the clock/voltage turned down a few notches to make it fall into the 95W category, there's bound to be a few bad ones that slip through the net. Although it could still just as easily be your motherboard or possibly PSU which is why more testing is needed.
 
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mmj_uk said:
It's a good idea for him to test before recommend that he rush out and buy a new PSU though?
Click to expand...

I agree HWmon could well be reading incorrectly, but I have never seen it that far off before. Also if it is the PSU, upping the voltage has the potential risks involved. I have not recommended him buying a PSU yet though, I was just saying that what I believe it is ATM. I totally agree, more testing needed before purchasing anything else. I'm just not sure upping the voltage is the answer at present.

MarcoPolo

Can you try and go into the bois and see if you have PSU readings in there and see if they are similar to what HWMonitor is showing.
 
Op I take it you've disabled cpb in bios as you are manually reducing the multi.
The E editions rely on cpb being on as the p-states for frequency and voltage are configured to raise or lower the vid (cpu v-core). From the looks of hwmonitor you are peaking at 1.092v and it's not rising any higher. So the problem looks to me like v-core.

Can you download this and send a screenshot of your p-states please.
http://www.vrworld.com/2013/04/09/amdmsrtweaker-v11-released2c-trinity-support-inside/

Also the turbo clocks of the fx4350 at stock are far quicker than the fx8320e, And this board will probably throttle down to 3.6ghz when you try and get the clocks on all 8 cores to the same as a stock fx4350.
Effectively this cpu isn't an upgrade for your board.


 
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Edit-

Found a link that worked. Here's my info;

J3tQkNq.png
 
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awesome thanks for screenshot,
16x = 3.2ghz at 1.1v as seen in your hwmonitor.
As scurburg said I'd try an offset of +0.1/manual 1.2v with a 32 multi, as it maybe this fx8320e needs a bump up.
 
Reading up on the EZCOOL 650w shows recommended for socket 775 and AM2+ or backwards compatible processors. There appear to be differrent models some single rail 36A and yours which is 2 x 20A dual rails. I do not know if it will use both rails aurtomatically, but it may be worthwhile trying different PCIe outputs if you have more than two. The 270X will use 15-16A on its own.

Ideally a different PSU may be on the cards as a solution. A good 500w+ from a decent brand. I hope you can sort this with a voltage bump though. You could also try setting the load line calibration from auto to 100% when you change the voltage.

andy.
 
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Go to advanced | Jumperfree configuration | CPU Overvoltage

before that set CPU overclocking to [manual]
 
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Its likely its manual only if it starts that high. Is there any indication of a + sign or is it just a straight voltage reading?
If no + indicated, you should be able to set to 1.2 as it sounds like manual mode but I am not confident enough to suggest it off my "guessing" alone. Can someone else confirm before he goes ahead?

Just to check while you are in the bios, go to the power tab, then go to HW monitor configuration. (Dont change anything here though)
Does this show your +12V, +5 etc readings. If you can get those details we maybe able to rule out the PSU.
 
All other overvoltage ranges (HT, mem, chipset) state ranges with an increment. Although it does not specifically state this in the manual, the CPU is probably the same. Therefore manual settings not offsets. Again not 100% but I am more confident.
 
Sorry about the late reply (its my b-day so I got family popping in and out). Here's the BIOS readings on voltages (I haven't changed them yet btw);

CPU Temp: 40c
MB Temp: 23c

Vcore voltage: 1.128V
3.3V: 3.344V
5V: 5.010V
12V: 12.145V

CPU Q-Fan = Enabled
 
MarcoPolo1667 said:
Thanks. Some people on Reddit are saying my mobo needs an upgrade, its on the edge of what it can handle. I did get £75 today which I could splash on an upgrade.

Thoughts? Would this solve the problem?
Click to expand...

As I've mentioned many times in previous threads - I wouldn't recommend buying a brand new AM3+ motherboard at this point in time. Your buying a motherboard with a chipset from 2011 - which lacks many new features and has no upgrade paths (no new CPU's will ever be released for the motherboard). It also performs horribly compared to the Intel alternatives, though the Intel's are a bit more expensive (you get what you pay for).

Do you have the budget for a I5 with a Z97 motherboard? It would offer you a much better system for gaming, all the new motherboard technologies, a full upgrade path (Broadwell being released later this year, will be compatible with Z97),will consume less electricity and will run cooler (awesome for the Summer months).

You mentioned you bought the new CPU recently - you could return it for a full refund and put the money towards an I5 setup, if it's within your budget of course. It's a much more futureproof setup, since you can simply upgrade in a few years to a I7 Broadwell CPU, if needed.
 
Dave2150 said:
As I've mentioned many times in previous threads - I wouldn't recommend buying a brand new AM3+ motherboard at this point in time. Your buying a motherboard with a chipset from 2011 - which lacks many new features and has no upgrade paths (no new CPU's will ever be released for the motherboard). It also performs horribly compared to the Intel alternatives, though the Intel's are a bit more expensive (you get what you pay for).

Do you have the budget for a I5 with a Z97 motherboard? It would offer you a much better system for gaming, all the new motherboard technologies, a full upgrade path (Broadwell being released later this year, will be compatible with Z97),will consume less electricity and will run cooler (awesome for the Summer months).

You mentioned you bought the new CPU recently - you could return it for a full refund and put the money towards an I5 setup, if it's within your budget of course. It's a much more futureproof setup, since you can simply upgrade in a few years to a I7 Broadwell CPU, if needed.
Click to expand...

Yeah I hear you. I might start saving for a whole new rig soon, hopefully now I know a little more about what I should be looking to get I shouldn't make stupid mistakes again. I'll leave this current rig as it is for now and hopefully I'll land a job soon so I can work towards a beast.
 
MarcoPolo1667 said:
Thanks. Some people on Reddit are saying my mobo needs an upgrade, its on the edge of what it can handle. I did get £75 today which I could splash on an upgrade.

Thoughts? Would this solve the problem?
Click to expand...

Like I said the fx4350 would end up providing greater performance than the fx8.
In your situation i'd sell your current setup, keep the 8320e and buy either a
78lmt usb3 for £40,or m5a97 evo r2.0 £65,Or sell it all and put your money towards an intel.
 
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