***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

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Kayfun V4 clone by Infinite.
Really, really impressed. I don't own a genuine Kayfun V4 but I do own a Lite Plus. The build quality on this clone is fantastic. It vapes nicely and is easy to build on.

Yes, I know I'm a bad man for buying a clone but I wasn't about to drop £120 on a genuine V4 without trying one first. This has shown me how good the device is so yeah off to C9V to buy a genuine one.
 
super vape mail day!
2015-04-08%2015.15.54.jpg

Hana case and cables for my own mod,
Muji Cotton cos it was free
Little boy RDA, looks good.
Tobh RDA, looks a bit pants,
Rouge RDA, looks a bit pants too..
3 VA Chaplnis, 1 Cherry tip, 1 nipple tip and 1 stone tip (looks extra pants)
and a SX Mini 350 M Class. :)

Not had much of a play with the sx mini m yet... but it's by far the heaviest mod I own, and with the silo; it's by far the tallest setup.

I can tell the difference in the mode settings... 17w at power + taste burnt on the silo. I like it on soft :D
 
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^Pics of SX mini with Silo please!! :)

edit

Only vape mail today was some Kanger NI200 OCC heads and a couple of spare mini RBA decks from myepack.

I think I'm going to order one of those Infinite Kayfun V4 clones, they do look good for the money.
 
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IceShock said:
If I could afford a authentic one I would lol, but for the price of a authentic one I can have about 15 clones lol.

Also the brass nemesis hits harder than copper? How can that be coppers more conductive?

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Aye 15 crappy clones that don't work properly. Get on the FB pages or classies and you can get a decent one for next to not that isn't a major health hazard
 
Rilot said:
9bazqXQ.jpg


Kayfun V4 clone by Infinite.
Really, really impressed. I don't own a genuine Kayfun V4 but I do own a Lite Plus. The build quality on this clone is fantastic. It vapes nicely and is easy to build on.

Yes, I know I'm a bad man for buying a clone but I wasn't about to drop £120 on a genuine V4 without trying one first. This has shown me how good the device is so yeah off to C9V to buy a genuine one.
Click to expand...

I love my genuine one. Its all I use and its a flavour machine!
 
IceShock said:
If I could afford a authentic one I would lol, but for the price of a authentic one I can have about 15 clones lol.

Also the brass nemesis hits harder than copper? How can that be coppers more conductive?

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

I started using clones but then i fast realised you do actually get what you pay for, i had a clone copper nemesis and the genuine is miles better in every way.

I dont care what people choose to use, if it works for you and your not smoking cigs its all good but if you are as into vaping as you seem to be, it is worth having one decent genuine than 15 crappy clones :)

And yes, the Brass Nemesis is one of the hardest hitters out there, i have been trying to find the chart that listed all the mods that were tested but it seems to have been moved or deleted, there is a good discussion here..

http://forums.aussievapers.com/e-ci...t-hitting-mechanical-mod-your-collection.html

Or simply do a google search for "hardest hitting mech mod" or "lowest voltage drop mech mod" etc.
 
Not sure how you can be hooped putting builds into the Rose. I find it quite frustrating. That said, it is a MUCH better flavour machine than my KFL+
 
For me the V4 just vapes like a posh KFL+ and is far too over complicated for what it is. With the Rose, I'm running a twisted kanthal build (1.4) and the Eden mods diagonal coil set up which took a bit of sussing out initially but with a bit of patience I'm struggling to find anything that can touch it - maybe it'll be the Ubertoot when it eventually arrives.
 
Hi, can anyone recommend me a starter kit? It's not for me, but for my wife. She has been smoking Marlboro light for the last 20 years.

Thanks
 
Got the turbo rda up.

For a clone god damn the build quality and machining on this thing is immaculate, its strong as hell, doesn't look cheap, its great.

The dripper its self, what I like is its nice deep juice well, build quality and well its a laugh, and it does chuck, infact I can run my coils right up to 5V without dry hits because of the fan, it actually does work lol, can take long draws without any burning.

But Christ, I couldn't use it for a dayly vape the fan would do my head in, just bought it for a laugh, it could do with a tad more airflow, its around the same as a mutation X is the air flow, but theres a lot more clouds, denser clouds, and like I said you can run up to really high volts and it doesn't burn because of the fan it cools the vapour down quite a lot, its not just a gimmick it does work.

Would be great for a cloud comp, but crap to live with :P the dripper its self tho, if it didn't have a fan id use it all the time, but due to the fan, its only there for messing about with blowing clouds.

I made a video of a cloud using some old 80vg juice, iv got a bad cold at the moment so lungs cant hold as much as usual :p but it does chuck more than my mutation X and airek, I suspect it would chuck even more than it does given it had more air flow.

In the video I was at 5.3V on my sigelei, 100W that equals, 0.2ohm coil. but you know sigeleis lie so probably was around 5v and 90w or so, and that's a hell of a lot of voltage, and it doesn't even taste the tinyest bit burnt, and iv no idea how also I can take so many draws before the coils are dry :S its really strange, iv never known anything like it.

click for video







 
Just tried a Kanger NI200 head and it's not looking good... Seems to be wicking poorly and it gave me my first ever dry hit using nickel. :(

oh and they are supposed to be 0.15 ohms but are reading 0.24, that's a big discrepancy using nickel.
 
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antran said:
Hi, can anyone recommend me a starter kit? It's not for me, but for my wife. She has been smoking Marlboro light for the last 20 years.

Thanks
Click to expand...
eleaf istick 30/50 watts with a aspire nautilus mini or beyond vape silo. It's depends on how big she's prepared to go. :)

kablooey said:
Just tried a Kanger NI200 head and it's not looking good... Seems to be wicking poorly and it gave me my first ever dry hit using nickel. :(

oh and they are supposed to be 0.15 ohms but are reading 0.24, that's a big discrepancy using nickel.
Click to expand...

They seem to me, like they take a lot longer to break in.. takes two or three tanks.
-----------------

My SX Mini M Class review... (for anyone interested imho)
Build quality is a tad bit off, but I’m OCD. Looks very good, but when I look closer, I can see imperfections, where the dark grey meets the grey. The 510 connector base plate lifts up if you screw in the battery bottom too tight, and shows daylight but will stop before it breaks. Everything is smooth, with the exception of the power logo on the fire button. Screen display is sharp but rather bright. It’s on par with my VS DNA40.

Vape quality, top notch! works fine on kanthal as expected, but it’s miles better with nickel than the DNA, no sign of the “Temperature Protection”, which I’ve tried at different temperatures and joules settings, but the vape is consistent for each setting rather than yay, meh and eh? of the DNA40. I’ll be using this rather than Evolv for temperature control. To me; on taste alone; it’s hitting the watts right at the low watts that I vape at, god knows what the hell joules settings are. The power modes are great, I can certainly tell the difference in ‘modes’. Flavour seems to suffer less than it does on the DNA40 too and no matter how much a chain vape in joules mode, no dry hits.

Usability is where it suffers, not a fan of motion control.. it’s great that everything can be control with the buttons, but it’s a tad weird reading the screen when it’s vertical and pressing the buttons. Even in normal mode, the left button controls the mode and the right controls the watts/joules adjustment, it would make more sense if they where the other way round as the screen display is layout with the mode on the right and watts is on the left. The joules used is just a waste of normal mode screen real estate. To me; it seems like the mod would benefit from something, but I'm not sure what, to make it more usable. The fact that you have to push both of the control buttons at the same time for it to read to the coil is neither and positive or negative, it’s better than the dna auto coil reading feature (see Scott’s video) but it’s something ‘extra’ to remember to do, and it will fire a nickel coil at kanthal settings if you forget to set the power/joules mode and re-read the coil. It’s not bad, It’s different from any other mod I’ve used.

For me its definitely a home mod, not that I value it more than my other mods, it’s just taller in height than anything else I have and it’s heaver than any other mod I have. So unless I’m in a hoodie, I can’t see me pocket this device on the move. The finish looks very Apple, in the terms that it can be damaged easy but built to last, and everyone has seen people’s Apple iPhones that’s scratch and dented.

Do I buyers remorse - No
Is it worth 4 iStick 50 watts - No, but the iStick don’t do temperature control.
Would I swap a mass production DNA40 for it - yes.
Would I buy another - Yes.
 
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Ya kno, also this turbo rda, iv just been vaping it vaping it vaping it just now, and I just realised the wicks are dry as a bone almost and its not burning at all, if wicks got half as dry as this on most rdas Christ it would taste horrible

I actually am impressed with it, but damn the fan noise, if they could iliminate that, then it would be Perfect lol
 
slinxy said:
They seem to me, like they take a lot longer to break in.. takes two or three tanks.
Click to expand...

After taking my battery it's now reading 0.18 ohms and seems to be producing better vapour already so, maybe it's the VS that was the problem? Whatever it is I won't be buying any more, I much prefer my own nickel builds over this.

Nice honest SX Mini review, given me something to think about...I really like the look of it but I also like the look of the Vapor Flask. :p Maybe I should concentrate on making my own mod before buying anything else.
 
slinxy said:
eleaf istick 30/50 watts with a aspire nautilus mini or beyond vape silo. It's depends on how big she's prepared to go. :)



They seem to me, like they take a lot longer to break in.. takes two or three tanks.
-----------------

My SX Mini M Class review... (for anyone interested imho)
Build quality is a tad bit off, but I’m OCD. Looks very good, but when I look closer, I can see imperfections, where the dark grey meets the grey. The 510 connector base plate lifts up if you screw in the battery bottom too tight, and shows daylight but will stop before it breaks. Everything is smooth, with the exception of the power logo on the fire button. Screen display is sharp but rather bright. It’s on par with my VS DNA40.

Vape quality, top notch! works fine on kanthal as expected, but it’s miles better with nickel than the DNA, no sign of the “Temperature Protection”, which I’ve tried at different temperatures and joules settings, but the vape is consistent for each setting rather than yay, meh and eh? of the DNA40. I’ll be using this rather than Evolv for temperature control. To me; on taste alone; it’s hitting the watts right at the low watts that I vape at, god knows what the hell joules settings are. The power modes are great, I can certainly tell the difference in ‘modes’. Flavour seems to suffer less than it does on the DNA40 too and no matter how much a chain vape in joules mode, no dry hits.

Usability is where it suffers, not a fan of motion control.. it’s great that everything can be control with the buttons, but it’s a tad weird reading the screen when it’s vertical and pressing the buttons. Even in normal mode, the left button controls the mode and the right controls the watts/joules adjustment, it would make more sense if they where the other way round as the screen display is layout with the mode on the right and watts is on the left. The joules used is just a waste of normal mode screen real estate. To me; it seems like the mod would benefit from something, but I'm not sure what, to make it more usable. The fact that you have to push both of the control buttons at the same time for it to read to the coil is neither and positive or negative, it’s better than the dna auto coil reading feature (see Scott’s video) but it’s something ‘extra’ to remember to do, and it will fire a nickel coil at kanthal settings if you forget to set the power/joules mode and re-read the coil. It’s not bad, It’s different from any other mod I’ve used.

For me its definitely a home mod, not that I value it more than my other mods, it’s just taller in height than anything else I have and it’s heaver than any other mod I have. So unless I’m in a hoodie, I can’t see me pocket this device on the move. The finish looks very Apple, in the terms that it can be damaged easy but built to last, and everyone has seen people’s Apple iPhones that’s scratch and dented.

Do I buyers remorse - No
Is it worth 4 iStick 50 watts - No, but the iStick don’t do temperature control.
Would I swap a mass production DNA40 for it - yes.
Would I buy another - Yes.
Click to expand...

Set your required watts to each of the memory modes on the device then no need to go into the menus and tilt the device.

I never go into the menu settings on my sx350 mini at all now :)

Also found out that on a future firmware update on the s class & m class the logo on the fire button has an led behind it and it will light up ;)

Cheers all
 
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