You should have noticed the Dolan!
Although from the other side of the road I doubt you could read the 'Dolan' on it, doesn't see cleaning products often!
Road Cycling
- Thread starter Zefan
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You should have noticed the Dolan!
Although from the other side of the road I doubt you could read the 'Dolan' on it, doesn't see cleaning products often!
Isn't it just a generic black anyway?
Although I was on the Planet X website the other day, can get mine in matte black now as well, looks pretty good.
I've had a creak a few times too! Also a bit of a grind which seems to clear itself up after a good scrub/clean around the area - so I imagine it's dirt behind the springy thing?! Put GT85 on/around it last time (rather than light oil) and it's kept it quieter.
So after removing the one crank (above pic), removing the 'spider arm crank' (below) requires special tools to refit (ie I shouldn't just try to hammer it out?)
Saw you'd been out with the dog a few times further and further! Be careful exercising her loads... She'll expect it all the time!
One of the main reasons when we got a dog was one 'easy to walk' so we got a little Westie, it's quite easy to exercise a dog with only 5 inch legs!
Don
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I think this is the jacket I was looking at
http://www.ukbikefactory.com/funkier-wj-1314-full-tpu-windproof-waterproof-jacket-red.html
never heard of this store before , so ignore that, does anyone have one of these?
http://www.ukbikefactory.com/funkier-wj-1314-full-tpu-windproof-waterproof-jacket-red.html
never heard of this store before , so ignore that, does anyone have one of these?
You can just hammer out the drive side crank. No special tools to reinstall IIRC. It just slots back in. You do need special tools to easily remove the bearings although they can be done without; you will need a press to reinstall new ones.
With regards to not requiring special tools to reinstall I speak from experience of replacing bearings twice on separate FSA cranks. Look up the specific model online, you will find out for sure.
With regards to not requiring special tools to reinstall I speak from experience of replacing bearings twice on separate FSA cranks. Look up the specific model online, you will find out for sure.
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Slight issue on the way home. My gears kept skipping, which was odd as it was fine this morning. Anywho, I freewheeled round a corner, put my foot on the pedal and bang! I saw something fly off the bike. So I got off and the rear derailleur has someone "come off" and is mashed in between the spokes of the rear wheel.
So I'm guessing I need to replace the rear derailleur, but I'm a little clueless. Do I need a specific one for my bike, or are they all generic. Is it an easy job?
Anyone know why this might happen? The bike's only 4 months old, 1600 miles on the clock.
So I'm guessing I need to replace the rear derailleur, but I'm a little clueless. Do I need a specific one for my bike, or are they all generic. Is it an easy job?
Anyone know why this might happen? The bike's only 4 months old, 1600 miles on the clock.
Ok thanks for that! I'm quite intrigued to 'look inside' to figure it out for myself (also to prove to myself the bearings are well greased and not the cause of my noises!).
Probably won't do anything until I've tried the other 'tricks' first.
Ouch! Wheel/spokes ok?
Something must have broken/come undone for the rear derailleur to 'come off', if you're able to figure out what it is then it may be self fixable. Really will depend if the derailleur itself is bent/broken from coming off or getting jammed. I recall you had something/question regarding the mounting/dropout before?
If it's the derailleur/frame/dropout itself breaking I'd say you should get it repaired/replaced at the LBS under warranty?
Oh I retrieved the broken piece from the road, it's a small black cap type thing.
I brought the bike online so dont know about warranty, if it's not too expensive I'll have a go myself
The derailleur will almost certainly be screwed. You're lucky your wheels are intact. Chances are the derailleur was already bent in from a knock, or it might have been so badly adjusted that it shifted into the spokes. An outside possibility is that you hit something in the road, but the chances are low.
I've bent my rear hanger without realising it a while back and when I switched into the 30T at the back, the derailleur got mashed into the spokes, sheared the hanger and and mangled itself and the chain between my wheel and rear stays
Not a good day, lucky I didn't come off.
I've bent my rear hanger without realising it a while back and when I switched into the 30T at the back, the derailleur got mashed into the spokes, sheared the hanger and and mangled itself and the chain between my wheel and rear stays
Not a good day, lucky I didn't come off.
I've done something similar. I'm not sure whether it was the mech or hanger that was bent, but somehow or other when I shifted down the derailleur went into the spokes and got completely destroyed. By the time I was done the mech was barely recognisable. Fortunately I was going slowly and managed not to fall off.
could do with some help guys to double check the spec, and best way/place to sell one of my dads bikes, from google image searches i think its a 2011 supersix ultegra and i know he upgraded the wheels so they arnt stock but im unsure if he'd changed anything else, it was his pride any joy and very well looked after.
some large images here that i took today,...
just dawned on me that i should have had the bike the other way around to show the chainset :/
some large images here that i took today,...
just dawned on me that i should have had the bike the other way around to show the chainset :/
Don
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- Oxfordshire / Bucks
that bike looks really good
It is indeed a 2011 supersix. I reckon you might get a grand for it, assuming it's never been crashed and there's a decent amount of life left in the drivetrain and wheel rims. In terms of where to sell, plenty of the big cycling websites - road.cc, bikeradar, pinkbike - have classified ad sections. You could use gumtree or ebay, but I'd insist on having the buyer collect and inspect it in person and then pay cash.
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Taking the fast train tomorrow. I put new bearings in the disc and it's super-smooth. Also swapped the cassette from the 13-21 to the 13-20 because the gear spacing is better. Quill pedals on for better Q and improved aero.
cheers for that,
id only considered ebay but there charges are too high so i think a cash on collection/inspection from one of the places you mentioned would be much better, i know he would have done a lot of miles on it as he bought it brand new back in 2012 and upgraded the wheels ~6 months later iirc, so as far as life left in the rims etc i think it would be best if i can get someone who knows their stuff to look it over before we advertise it,
thanks for your help
EDIT: also, the original wheels that came with the bike are still on his old bike in the garage, would it be better to put those back on the bike and sell these upgraded ones seperatly?
these are the original wheels (my mums keeping this bike for sentimental reasons and will have his old Mavik wheels put back on it)
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Thanks for the advice guys. I've got a friend that's a bike mechanic, figured I'd rope him in. I did have a fall just over a week a go, but it didn't look bent, and I've done ~200miles since.
I've installed the saddle from SoliD, onto my road bike. Installing saddles are such a ball ache. Fingers crossed the knee pain doesn't come back. Be nice to see how much of a difference the carbon frame makes as well. Going to miss the discs though
I've installed the saddle from SoliD, onto my road bike. Installing saddles are such a ball ache. Fingers crossed the knee pain doesn't come back. Be nice to see how much of a difference the carbon frame makes as well. Going to miss the discs though
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