Man of Honour
- Joined
- 16 May 2005
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- 31,297
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- Manchester
I prefer to sit whilst hill climbing unless it's a very short steep bump. I try to stick to 90ish cadence for it, at least until I run out of gears.
Road Cycling
- Thread starter Zefan
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not really.. unless you can recreate the conditions! wind, temp etc will result in different levels of avg speed!
say in my case, my avg is all over the place.. traffic and I'm done, lucky with lights and I'm in 20mph+ range before lights hit again
?? What ya done now? The KOM?
/golfclap him! To be honest with the effort it takes to have lights on I'm still having mine on - even in the afternoons. If I'm carrying them anyway (use in the mornings) I don't see the point in not having them on my bike flashing!? Even when the sun is out - I consider if I'm in shade or filtering through traffic and they catch someones eye then it's worth it!
The Suunto adaptor is brilliant, get one! Well recommended and has been rock solid for me! (cheers Paul!)
One thought - you say 'old Windows Laptop', check the minimum spec on TR. I've got it working on an old dual core Vista machine ok but it was a little bit of a fiddle (iirc I couldn't use the latest drivers).
My only gripe is that Zwift won't work on my old lappy so I'm waiting for the Android version as I doubt I can persuade 'her' that we need to replace the laptop!
Last I heard (someone here said) Decathlon haven't had them in stock for months. Although you should be able to find the Garmin GSC10 now at a good price now the newer Garmin sensors are everyones preferred? Some people are using Bontrager and Cateye sensors, no idea how good/compatible they are with ANT+/TR etc.
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 16 May 2005
- Posts
- 31,297
- Location
- Manchester
My local Decathlon had a small amount of stock last time I was there but I guess it's hit and miss really. I use a Wahoo cadence sensor on my bike now (bought mostly because of Ti pedals and being unable to use a magnet on them, also for the fact it's BTLE as well as Ant+). It's good but I assume it's similar to the new Garmin magnet-less sensors - slightly slower to react to changes in cadence.
Yep, I've noticed this with the new speed + cadence sensors from Garmin. A willing trade off though for the much improved aesthetic design.
I've decided to enter the shameful world of Tri/multi-sport by entering my first Olympic distance triathlon.
I'm fundraising in memory of my brother for the event and would appreciate any monies you wealthy cyclists can spare.
http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/liamreilly
I'm fundraising in memory of my brother for the event and would appreciate any monies you wealthy cyclists can spare.
http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/liamreilly
I've decided to enter the shameful world of Tri/multi-sport by entering my first Olympic distance triathlon.
I'm fundraising in memory of my brother for the event and would appreciate any monies you wealthy cyclists can spare.
http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/liamreilly
Shamrock's Donation Page said:
Strava says otherwise.
I'm a mediocre runner and I do 10km at 5.08/km, not the 4.26/km pace that you call a 'steady' 10km.
Oh yeah I need you guys to sponsor me too, to ride 425 miles over 4 days in July.
https://www.justgiving.com/David-Cross10
I admit it's basically a jolly but work pressure to raise money means I have to ask.
I'm willing to get legs waxed, head shaved etc if it helps.
My triathlon has come round so quick, it's two weeks on Sunday. I'm still a shocking swimmer!
https://www.justgiving.com/David-Cross10
I admit it's basically a jolly but work pressure to raise money means I have to ask.
I'm willing to get legs waxed, head shaved etc if it helps.
My triathlon has come round so quick, it's two weeks on Sunday. I'm still a shocking swimmer!
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
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- 17,722
- Location
- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
Gatorskin tubs don't seem to have the bad rep that the clinchers have. Not sure why, I don't know what the differences in construction or tread are.
I'll happily recommend the Tufo S33 tubs that I'm using. They have done the broken glass, gravel and pot-hole gauntlet that makes up my commute and don't look any worse than my normal road tyres. Now, they are different to normal tubs because the tube inside is integrated in the casing, which means you can repair them quite effectively with a can of instant tyre repair like Vitorria Pit Stop. No need to fill them up in advance with Slime; just keep a tin taped to your frame and this is your puncture repair outfit. I'm actually considering swapping to them for commuting.
Sorry to hear about your brother, in fact sorry that I may have missed it if you mentioned him before. Good luck with the tri. London is a good one
Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Dec 2004
- Posts
- 17,114
- Location
- Shepley
Another vote for Gatorskin tubs here, they're pretty good for the money. I haven't punctured mine (yet) over some very dubious surfaces and conditions. I will say they aren't as grippy and confidence inspiring as a nicer Vittoria/Conti tyre but they're a hell of a lot faster than a flat tyre...
Ha, I think it's because I'm comparing myself to people on my strava who run 6:00/mi "training" runs and do 2h22m marathons!
Sorry to hear about your brother, in fact sorry that I may have missed it if you mentioned him before. Good luck with the tri. London is a good one
Thanks, looking forward to it but also nervous about the swim!
Now to stop polluting the road cycling thread with talk of running and drowning...
I've decided to enter the shameful world of Tri/multi-sport by entering my first Olympic distance triathlon.
I'm fundraising in memory of my brother for the event and would appreciate any monies you wealthy cyclists can spare.
http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/liamreilly
Done & Good luck!
Done & Good luck! The possibilities of
I think most of the bad rep comes from the clincher being the 'go-to upgrade' tire for many retail outlets where many people go to without doing their own research. Time and again you hear of horror stories about their lack of grip in the wet - although I'm betting more all weather riders use clinchers than tubs (bear with me here...!) leading to more negative press for the tires. From what I read before the same tire layers and compounds are used between the tubs and clinchers so I can't see how the tubs would be 'better grip' than the clinchers in the wet? Just less people using them so less horror stories...?
TL;DR Skaterskins lolz
Making a new post to keep things tidy...
My 'home maintenance' is ongoing with a new experience last night - removing cranks from BB, greasing & refitting!
But first a couple of pics from a few days ago, removed the KMC X11L chain my Giant Defy 1 2015 came with after just over 900 miles. The chain tool told me to!
Replaced with a SRAM X1 11 Speed Chain from CRC (website down so can't link) £19 after grudas and others reporting high mileage in all weathers. Looks superb and shifting is now crisp and smooth again!
My next process while trying to eliminate 'clicks' (and the occasional creak) I've had was to take a look at my BB and regrease it. Probably not required on a bike less than 6 months old and <1000 miles but I wanted to eliminate it from my troubleshooting and take a look at it myself! I removed my non-drive side crank (have done before for cleaning) and after asking a friend (and reading/watching online) I gave the spindle a bit of a tap while pulling the drive-side crank spider... It came out easily (with a bit of wiggling) and I was presented with this:
As things were not as bad as I was expecting I gave it all good clean and wipe, then regreased where I thought needed:
Refitted everything and after the commute in this morning (still got a sore & tender achilles) it's much better... I still do have a click when putting power down, it's not as pronounced as yesterday and I think it's 'higher up'. Next I'll be regreasing my headset and refitting. I've taken it apart and cleaned it before, can post pictures if anyone wants!
My 'home maintenance' is ongoing with a new experience last night - removing cranks from BB, greasing & refitting!
But first a couple of pics from a few days ago, removed the KMC X11L chain my Giant Defy 1 2015 came with after just over 900 miles. The chain tool told me to!
Replaced with a SRAM X1 11 Speed Chain from CRC (website down so can't link) £19 after grudas and others reporting high mileage in all weathers. Looks superb and shifting is now crisp and smooth again!
My next process while trying to eliminate 'clicks' (and the occasional creak) I've had was to take a look at my BB and regrease it. Probably not required on a bike less than 6 months old and <1000 miles but I wanted to eliminate it from my troubleshooting and take a look at it myself! I removed my non-drive side crank (have done before for cleaning) and after asking a friend (and reading/watching online) I gave the spindle a bit of a tap while pulling the drive-side crank spider... It came out easily (with a bit of wiggling) and I was presented with this:
As things were not as bad as I was expecting I gave it all good clean and wipe, then regreased where I thought needed:
Refitted everything and after the commute in this morning (still got a sore & tender achilles) it's much better... I still do have a click when putting power down, it's not as pronounced as yesterday and I think it's 'higher up'. Next I'll be regreasing my headset and refitting. I've taken it apart and cleaned it before, can post pictures if anyone wants!
Last edited:
check your saddle rails ! trust me on that, I've had clicking for WEEKS, couldn't find what it was.. felt like it was coming from BB/chainset but it was saddle rails??! dropped a thin layer on the rails and put it all together.. bam silent?! magic beans ffs.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,648
Making a new post to keep things tidy...
My 'home maintenance' is ongoing with a new experience last night - removing cranks from BB, greasing & refitting!
But first a couple of pics from a few days ago, removed the KMC X11L chain my Giant Defy 1 2015 came with after just over 900 miles. The chain tool told me to!
Replaced with a SRAM X1 11 Speed Chain from CRC (website down so can't link) £19 after grudas and others reporting high mileage in all weathers. Looks superb and shifting is now crisp and smooth again!
My next process while trying to eliminate 'clicks' (and the occasional creak) I've had was to take a look at my BB and regrease it. Probably not required on a bike less than 6 months old and <1000 miles but I wanted to eliminate it from my troubleshooting and take a look at it myself! I removed my non-drive side crank (have done before for cleaning) and after asking a friend (and reading/watching online) I gave the spindle a bit of a tap while pulling the drive-side crank spider... It came out easily (with a bit of wiggling) and I was presented with this:
As things were not as bad as I was expecting I gave it all good clean and wipe, then regreased where I thought needed:
![url].](http://.[url]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/66653574/Cycling/20150513_210318.jpg[/url].)
Refitted everything and after the commute in this morning (still got a sore & tender achilles) it's much better... I still do have a click when putting power down, it's not as pronounced as yesterday and I think it's 'higher up'. Next I'll be regreasing my headset and refitting. I've taken it apart and cleaned it before, can post pictures if anyone wants!
It may actually be the fit between the press fit BB and the frame that is giving the click. BB30 and press fit stuff is terrible for it.
Check your mech hanger bolt + bottle cage bolts too.
I've done the 'hold the saddle and force it around' trick and it was silent. Tightened up the saddle bolt a week or two ago and it's still tight. I get the click when stood climbing which I wouldn't think could then come from the saddle?
Mine is a BB90 'Shimano Press Fit' that Giant use (same as most Trek which most of the BB90 forum posts seem to be about). I've read that if I remove my BB90 bearings then I'm best to replace them rather than refit? Tools and bearings would cost me £60+ and for the time being I'd rather spend that at the LBS and get them to do it... As it may be something else of course!?
Bottle cage bolts I've checked, mech hanger is a good shout, from what I read easy enough to do...? I'm also going to change my pedals as I have a 'spare' newer set (on my Turbo bike). I removed my non-drive side pedal last night and smacked myself in the face doing it, cleaned and greased thread and refitted. Couldn't seem to get the drive side off (but was running out of daylight & bleeding
) so will have another go at the weekend! Check the front wheel axle. I had a similar problem where when I put power down there would be a creak on each revolution. Naturally, like yourself I thought it could be the BB. It wasn't. It turned out to be the front wheel axle which needed a re-grease.
So when out of the saddle and rocking the bike it was the added pressure on each side of the axle which was making the creak. The sound would go away in wet conditions.
Worth a look anyway.
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