Road Cycling

Roady · 11 Nov 2015 at 17:24

Jono said:
Oooh Roady - go out and test them in the rain.

I will in time... Need to get rid of this stinking illness before I do so likely won't be for 10+ days (thinking weekend, not commuting)...! Will test sizing later so fingers crossed I'm an XL in Sportful tops (as I'm an XL in their & Castelli shorts but a L in some Castelli tops). :rolleyes:

PaulStat said:
Woops I meant haven't

Phew! Good!

FrenchTart said:
Indeed. I haven't tried them side by side but I was under the impression that 5800 compared quite favourably to 6800.

Then again I've read that 5800 is quite an upgrade over 5700 (as well as the extra gear) as I think 5800 is based on 6700? Trickle down at it's best! (and I love my 5800 and couldn't tell much difference between it and 6800 in the shop)

SoliD · 11 Nov 2015 at 17:28

Jono said:
How does 5700/5800 compare to 6800? Is there a new Ultegra out for 2016?
I was gonna spec Ultegra on my future bike, or Sram something (Force?).. but may as well keep with latest 105 if it's as good.

Very little difference in my opinion, most wouldn't notice an appreciable difference. My 5800 has done 1300miles so far this year, mostly in grim conditions, and seems to shift as perfectly as it did when I got it.

Roady said:
Then again I've read that 5800 is quite an upgrade over 5700 (as well as the extra gear) as I think 5800 is based on 6700? Trickle down at it's best! (and I love my 5800 and couldn't tell much difference between it and 6800 in the shop)

It is a big step up in my opinion. My 5700 was never as slick as the 5800.

Jonny69 · 11 Nov 2015 at 18:14

tedmaul said:
So am i the only person that only ever puts a tyre back on with tyre levers? I kind of thought that's why they were invented, so you don't have to do it with your hands.

Of course, when i were a lad, you just fixed yer BMX tyre using a spoon. I remember this when it was all fields......where am i?........

I pretty much always use tyre levers. I don't think I've currently got a wheel/tyre combo that I can get a tyre on without them. They're all too tight

BennyC · 11 Nov 2015 at 19:41

DanF said:
Yeah the new P2M type-s is meant to be better.

The way the P2M works is to replace the spider, the chainrings are then bolted on to it. Only some cranks/rings are compatible with them, no newer shimano works though as they have a built in spider

Most of the crank options are shown here

http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/produkt-kategorie/power-meters-en/power2max-type-s-road/

Have to watch out for the small ring as well, some rings have cutouts around the bolt-holes like say cannondale SI chainrings. These will buckle when tightened up on a P2M spider.

It'd probably be cheaper to buy the 105 components separate bits and then sort out the cranks than try and split a full 105 grouset kit.

Thanks

as I already have a 105 RD I just need some Brifters, FD, Calipers etc. I won't need a cassette, crank etc. So that might open up some more options too meaning I won't need to stick to strictly a 105 bundle :cool:

My 'staple' turbo workout tonight. Increase my squat volume on Tuesday from 'bugger all' to 'not an insignificant amount but still not a great deal'

and could feel the onset of DOMS today, to be expected. Also suffering slightly from shin splints from my brisk walk in to town in my work shoes on Monday which is never a good idea for any sort of distance.

Anyway, surprised myself, new 1 & 5 minute power records. Decided to just mash for the last minute instead of pace for two, still only 2% off target power for that interval despite spending the last minute recovering

https://www.trainerroad.com/cycling/rides/2546194-Elwell

Garmin burn, 740 calories, fairly reasonable for efforts all above FTP and the distance covered.

PaulStat · 11 Nov 2015 at 20:12

So next issue! I need to remove the old 7 speed cassette from the rear wheel, I have a cassette lock tool, a chain whip tool and a adjustable wrench. One issue

The lock ring on the cassette will not fit the cassette lock tool I have (I also inherited my Dads tools, so I have no idea why he had a cassette lock tool that doesn't fit the cassette lock ring)

I also have no idea what brand/make the cassette is, any ideas. It's late 80's if that helps.

Next potential issue I have is I'm not sure the hub underneath that cassette will fit my new Shimano 105 5800 11 speed cassette (I suspect not)

Vonhelmet · 11 Nov 2015 at 20:16

7 speed and that age means it's almost certainly a freewheel rather than a cassette on a free hub. You might need different tools. Best guess hold the sprockets in place with a chain whip and then undo that nut in the middle.

If it's very old then it's probably on tighter than all hell, so in the absence of tools and the strength of Hercules you may be as well taking it to an LBS.

Phil99 · 11 Nov 2015 at 20:18

DanF said:
I'm not kidding, I broke one of the calipers

Near the end step when holding the leaver and releasing air bubbles in pulses. The yellow block slipped and made the pistons come out at an angle, instant cracking sound and oil weeping out around the piston. On inspection the piston had cracked from the uneven pressure. It looks like the ceramic pistons are fairly delicate with several other reports of similar happening. One was on a test bike with the brake just riding slightly high on the disc, was enough pressure difference over the piston to crack it mid-ride.

I can't find any spare pistons sold separately so might have to get a whole new caliper at €50

I don't think I cracked a piston, but I also had to replace one of my calipers. You're right, it's new caliper time, they're non-serviceable.

Shortly after re-bleeding the front caliper with the syringe I thought I saw some oil near the pads. Squeezed the lever and sent mineral oil literally spraying out from around one of the pistons. Was not impressed. Fortunately managed to RMA the caliper with quite a fast turnaround (thanks Wiggle!) so only had to wait a few days before being able to install the new one.

Jonny ///M · 11 Nov 2015 at 20:20

PaulStat said:
So next issue! I need to remove the old 7 speed cassette from the rear wheel, I have a cassette lock tool, a chain whip tool and a adjustable wrench. One issue

The lock ring on the cassette will not fit the cassette lock tool I have (I also inherited my Dads tools, so I have no idea why he had a cassette lock tool that doesn't fit the cassette lock ring)

I also have no idea what brand/make the cassette is, any ideas. It's late 80's if that helps.

Next potential issue I have is I'm not sure the hub underneath that cassette will fit my new Shimano 105 5800 11 speed cassette (I suspect not)

It's not a cassette that's why! It's a freewheel and I can't see any splines for some reason. There are a few brands from back then but it doesn't look like a shimano or regina, could be maillard or something obscure.

What is that around the nut. Is it a rubber seal or grease?

https://flic.kr/p/eqckv1

Also the guy that runs the local club/customers boy/customer is riding for moda anon next year. Good luck to him!
http://anoncycling.com/riders/ruariyeoman/

PaulStat · 11 Nov 2015 at 20:36

There are splines they're just very very shallow. What you see on the but is just an embossed pattern on the nut itself

FrenchTart · 11 Nov 2015 at 20:50

BennyC said:
Thanks as I already have a 105 RD I just need some Brifters, FD, Calipers etc. I won't need a cassette, crank etc. So that might open up some more options too meaning I won't need to stick to strictly a 105 bundle

My 'staple' turbo workout tonight. Increase my squat volume on Tuesday from 'bugger all' to 'not an insignificant amount but still not a great deal' and could feel the onset of DOMS today, to be expected. Also suffering slightly from shin splints from my brisk walk in to town in my work shoes on Monday which is never a good idea for any sort of distance.

Anyway, surprised myself, new 1 & 5 minute power records. Decided to just mash for the last minute instead of pace for two, still only 2% off target power for that interval despite spending the last minute recovering

https://www.trainerroad.com/cycling/rides/2546194-Elwell

Garmin burn, 740 calories, fairly reasonable for efforts all above FTP and the distance covered.

What version of 105 is your RD? Just mentioning as the difference between 5700 and 5800 is significant (i.e. not compatible).

BennyC · 11 Nov 2015 at 20:52

FrenchTart said:
What version of 105 is your RD? Just mentioning as the difference between 5700 and 5800 is significant (i.e. not compatible).

Probably ancient now you mention it! A RD is only about £30 I think, when in Rome...

Vonhelmet · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:15

FrenchTart said:
What version of 105 is your RD? Just mentioning as the difference between 5700 and 5800 is significant (i.e. not compatible).

How can the RDs not be compatible? There's no indexing in the RD so either should just work.

I'm probably missing something obvious...

BennyC · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:23

Coming back around to the Power2Max, maybe it's just me but I'm finding all the product lines, BCD measurements etc incredibly confusing :/

More than happy to replace/upgrade my bottom bracket along with group set components but how do I determine which my frame is compatible with and then from there which P2M would be suitable? I'll check what my front rings are when I'm next in the garage but I'm fairly certain they're a 50/36.

I'll keep my eyes peeled on the 'bay but have no idea which should be of interest and which I can dismiss...

FrenchTart · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:24

Vonhelmet said:
How can the RDs not be compatible? There's no indexing in the RD so either should just work.

I'm probably missing something obvious...

Well, one being 10 speed and another being 11 would be an issue - even if it would work you wouldn't want to be missing a gear.

FrenchTart · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:27

BennyC said:
Coming back around to the Power2Max, maybe it's just me but I'm finding all the product lines, BCD measurements etc incredibly confusing :/

More than happy to replace/upgrade my bottom bracket along with group set components but how do I determine which my frame is compatible with and then from there which P2M would be suitable? I'll check what my front rings are when I'm next in the garage but I'm fairly certain they're a 50/36.

I'll keep my eyes peeled on the 'bay but have no idea which should be of interest and which I can dismiss...

Most front rings will be 52/36 or 50/34. You're more likely to have 50/34 currently to be honest.

BCD can be a pain to work out but usually the ring size is a good giveaway - 52/36 will almost certainly be 130BCD whereas 50/34 will probably be 110BCD.

When you linked to your bike earlier I think it mentioned a GXP BB so you'll need to get something that's compatible with that. Any idea what your current crankset is in terms of brand as tbh I assumed it was Shimano, which would be an unusual pairing with GXP.

edit: Just checked your bike link again. If it's definitely got that Truvativ Elita rubbishy-looking crankset then it's probably 130BCD and has the weird 50/36 combo as you've assumed. As you're replacing the that entire bit don't worry about your current BCD at all. Just get something that works with GXP and make sure the combination of whatever you get to go with it has the same BCD.

Saytan · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:27

FrenchTart said:
Well, one being 10 speed and another being 11 would be an issue - even if it would work you wouldn't want to be missing a gear.

"missing a gear" isn't the issue, it's the fact that the derailleur has a different cable actuation ratio

(you can even get a 6-speed derailleur working on 9 speed with a bit of faffing)

FrenchTart · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:29

Saytan said:
"missing a gear" isn't the issue, it's the fact that the derailleur has a different cable actuation ratio

(you can even get a 6-speed derailleur working on 9 speed with a bit of faffing)

That was my assumption but I couldn't be bothered confirming before posting. Either way the end result is that it's not a pairing that you would want to do.

Saytan · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:30

FrenchTart said:
That was my assumption but I couldn't be bothered confirming before posting. Either way the end result is that it's not a pairing that you would want to do.

it only applies to 11 speed stuff though, 6/7/8/9/10 all had the same actuation ratio. Except 8 speed dura ace, just to be awkward

FrenchTart · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:31

Saytan said:
it only applies to 11 speed stuff though, 6/7/8/9/10 all had the same actuation ratio. Except 8 speed dura ace, just to be awkward

I think some of the MTB Shimano 10 speed and the newest Tiagra also have something weird like that too?

Saytan · 11 Nov 2015 at 21:33

FrenchTart said:
I think some of the MTB Shimano 10 speed and the newest Tiagra also have something weird like that too?

I was ignoring MTB stuff - the 10 speed MTB stuff has the same actuation ratio as 11 speed road stuff. I've not heard anything about Tiagra, but I see it intermixed with other gruppos a fair bit.

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