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GTX 980 Ti C92 capacitor broken off

Appreciate all the help, being looking for a good UK PC forum since my recent move back to UK.

Think I seriously need to up my post rate though, need a good second PC hand parts forum now & i believe the rules for getting into the one on here are pretty ... vigorous ;) VRforums in Sing was brilliant for trading quality high parts. Ops should think about giving credit to new 'overseas' transfers into the marketplace forum based on service abroad....lol
 
MooMoo444 said:
That's not completely true - often you will have extra parts for redundancy. Especially on high end parts where lifespan is a very relevant issue.
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Capacitors are often there to shunt noise away from sensitive components or other power conditioning or to mask impedance etc. with the goal of making parts of a circuit tolerant to a wide range of real world circumstances including those outside of what the device would realistically encounter in the majority of cases - meaning the loss might not be significant except in edge cases depending on the function of the capacitor.
 
Lokken86 said:
You'll need a very fine tip and a steady hand but it is fixable.
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The contacts on that size cap are about 2.5mm or so - a lot easier (relatively speaking :P) than most of the other SMD components on the GPU :S I've been doing a fair bit of SSOP soldering lately - 0.65mm contact spacing - fortunately you can drag solder ICs but fun and games if you need to do individual connectors.
 
Gigabyte told me its 330uf 7.3x4.3x1.9mm but nothing about its ESR, voltage or tolerance. It has "330 51f3f d" written on it. I cant seem to find an exact match for it on mouser or digikey. I'm asked Gigabyte to more specific about it but they seem to think its some kind of state secret....:D Thanx for the help
 
Mouser isn't usually cost effective for buying small quantities, I suspect the cap on there is middle of the road spec used for a bit of power supply stability.
 
Have you tried using it since?

I had a couple of capacitors and resistors come off on an 8800gtx abduct still worked fine.
 
I tried an old fx5200 a while back, it had been in a box and lost a few bits from it, capacitors at a wild guess, I was surprised it still worked perfectly!

I find with PC components, when new and expensive, if you so much as fart too close to them they generally fail, once old and worthless they seem to become immortal! :D
 
I wouldn't recommend using it unless you know the function of the part.

A lot of those SMD parts will be there to give the electronics a wider range of tolerance to different conditions and the card should still run in "normal" conditions without them however some for instance could be there to set the output voltage from regulators (though that seems to be done digitally or fixed output parts more often these days on GPUs) which could be catastrophic if the loss of the part meant you had for instance 12v coming through where it was expecting 3v.
 
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My guess is that it'll be a decoupler in the power supply circuitry.

I wouldn't recommend powering up the card without it, but I doubt that fitting an exact replacement is critical.
 
Just had a poke about on an old GPU and the ones in that kind of position seem to be actually 2.5v aluminium electrolytics not tants (not that it probably makes that much odds in this context).
 
Allygash said:
UPDATE: Gigabyte eventually got back to me told me they're 2V, 330uf, 7.3X4.3X1.9mm capacitors with an ESR rating as low as possible.

Looks like these will fit the bill apparently....

http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Panasonic/2TPF330M6/?qs=OE1iw1LrrPEo%2b%2baIEBxuZg==

Any comments on my choice? Plus any recommendations on the type of lead free solder I should use to solder it back on?

Thanks for all the help guys..

Mike.
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They look perfect the ones you linked to. Just make sure to get someone that knows how to surface mount, it's a different technique required, normally involves a lot more solder then wicking it up depending on the part (I have only ever soldered surface mount chips and they require a lot of solder on all pins then wicking it up and making sure no shorts between pins), but that looks like it will be pretty easy job to do.


Just get some good quality solder with flux and make sure to get a solder wick to remove excess solder.
 
Lead free has always been rubbish in my experience.

If you are buying from mouser something like this - though maybe go down to 0.5-0.6mm for SMD stuff as it can make it easier http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...enNxu4EKej4mKrYqETZTXF6aPBwAlLT6kIgigoi/WMg==

Mouser has a fairly high delivery charge to the UK unless you buy >£50 IIRC - Farnell currently have some offers on free delivery, etc. though they normally have a £20 minimum order value on non-business accounts but not checked if thats in effect with the current offers.
 
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Thank you Rroff, any advice on a soldering iron? My friend will be doing it because hes an electrician, loads of soldering experience but mainly electrical stuff not PC specific, is there a PC specific iron he needs to use?
 
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