What have you done to your car today?

Good stuff... :)

Oh... I think your better feeling may be misguided... :( :p

Don't think so - female dealer who actually seemed to understand customer service. Even daft things like I asked her to put £20 of fuel in it (so I didn't have to worry about finding a petrol station) and to add it to the bill - collected today and said not to worry about it :)

Warranty is just a 6 month one with a 3rd party, but includes breakdown cover as well - hopefully need it, but nice for it to be included.
 
Killed my turbo.

A few weeks ago it didn't feel right, felt very laggy and didn't sound right. Although it seemed reasonably ok again until now. Lost all boost, sounded awful. Luckily wasn't far from home so nursed it back, shut the engine off and the turbo spinning down did not sound healthy at all!


So I think that's RIP GT28RS :( Time to save up for a brand new upgrade.
 
Bought some new centre caps for the wheels for the Porsche. eBay copies and fit well but slight difference on colour for me. Nobody else notices it though...

Also got some £20 floor mats from bay of E too. Very impressed with the fitment! Tight fit!
 
In that case just keep an eye on the chain :) the new chain is a 1k bill -.-

My dpf counter was reset by mazda but 100 miles later it regenerated.... I even had it "cleaned" but 200 oDD miles later it regenerated.

So.. off it went.

Hopefully you won't have any issues

If it's anythign like whats entailed on the MPS's Mazda quote over 1k for parts alone for timing chain/VVT work. Genuine Mazda parts can be had from the states for around £350 and maybe £150-200 for fitting at a half decent garage.
 
If it's anythign like whats entailed on the MPS's Mazda quote over 1k for parts alone for timing chain/VVT work. Genuine Mazda parts can be had from the states for around £350 and maybe £150-200 for fitting at a half decent garage.

From what I've read, the 2.2D is the other way around - parts are about 50 quid but it's a lot of labour. It doesn't really seem that prevalent in the grand scheme of things so I'm not overly worried and I've got a good friend who runs a garage and is happy to do mates rates. Last time he did a load of work on the Saab, about a day of labour and he charged me £100. I don't want to take advantage of his good nature but if I do end up with timing chain problems, it would still cost less than the difference between what I've paid and what one from a dealer with a warranty would have cost. But I'm really not worried about that or the DPF - spoke to my friend for advice and he said provided it's not been used for lots of short distances and has all the service history then they're a pretty safe buy.

To be honest, I'm not buying one to save tons of money in fuel, I'm buying one because I want something that's not going to have continuous niggles. I've always liked the 3 and don't want an MPS, the only other petrol is the 1.6 so the 2.2D is the best bet
 
I rebuilt the rest of the rear axel, put all of the rear heat shields back on, the rear bumper back on gave it a wash.



Not many parts left in the garage to fit now. All I have left are new engine mounts, oil filter, oil and some new manifold gaskets and bolts as after a bit of reading I am putting new OE gaskets on rather than ones that came with the new exhaust.

Fitting new stuff needs to wait for a week as this Friday it's booked in for a new roof and Saturday it's going in for 4 wheel alignment.
 
From what I've read, the 2.2D is the other way around - parts are about 50 quid but it's a lot of labour. It doesn't really seem that prevalent in the grand scheme of things so I'm not overly worried and I've got a good friend who runs a garage and is happy to do mates rates. Last time he did a load of work on the Saab, about a day of labour and he charged me £100. I don't want to take advantage of his good nature but if I do end up with timing chain problems, it would still cost less than the difference between what I've paid and what one from a dealer with a warranty would have cost. But I'm really not worried about that or the DPF - spoke to my friend for advice and he said provided it's not been used for lots of short distances and has all the service history then they're a pretty safe buy.

To be honest, I'm not buying one to save tons of money in fuel, I'm buying one because I want something that's not going to have continuous niggles. I've always liked the 3 and don't want an MPS, the only other petrol is the 1.6 so the 2.2D is the best bet

The o2 sensors are also an issue. I have been through one already. You might be lucky though.
 
From what I've read, the 2.2D is the other way around - parts are about 50 quid but it's a lot of labour. It doesn't really seem that prevalent in the grand scheme of things so I'm not overly worried and I've got a good friend who runs a garage and is happy to do mates rates. Last time he did a load of work on the Saab, about a day of labour and he charged me £100. I don't want to take advantage of his good nature but if I do end up with timing chain problems, it would still cost less than the difference between what I've paid and what one from a dealer with a warranty would have cost. But I'm really not worried about that or the DPF - spoke to my friend for advice and he said provided it's not been used for lots of short distances and has all the service history then they're a pretty safe buy.

To be honest, I'm not buying one to save tons of money in fuel, I'm buying one because I want something that's not going to have continuous niggles. I've always liked the 3 and don't want an MPS, the only other petrol is the 1.6 so the 2.2D is the best bet

There are 2-litre Sports out there but compared to the first-gen they're far harder to find, and somehow slower too.
 
Wanted to go to the shops today but it took me about 3 hours longer than expected. Turns out not using a mazda for 3 weeks = drained battery. Had to push it around a steep tight car park to get it into place so I could jump start it off the van.
Took it for a drive up the motorway and back stopped at the shop and that lovely drone of the starter motor struggling.

Quick phone call to the Aa and an hour wait and he tells me the battery is funked, my car is apparently a Japanese import and they don't stock Japanese batteries....

Now I have to spend my Monday looking for a battery that will fit it, but eurocarparts isn't being useful so might just take it to the local mazda dealer...
 
Whilst not strictly today as this took me about 5 days to do I refurbed my Mondeo's scabby alloys this week as I had a week off work so didn't need it for a few days.

Cost me about £80 to do all four including new centre caps & new wheel nuts.

Before -





After -



 
Whilst not strictly today as this took me about 5 days to do I refurbed my Mondeo's scabby alloys this week as I had a week off work so didn't need it for a few days.

Cost me about £80 to do all four including new centre caps & new wheel nuts.

Nice job :) What was the process? I could do with doing the alloys on my Focus, the lacquer is peeling on a few of them and looking scruffy.
 
Nice job :) What was the process? I could do with doing the alloys on my Focus, the lacquer is peeling on a few of them and looking scruffy.

Fairly straight forward but mega time consuming -

Take wheels off & let all of the air out of the tyres (gives more clearance for an electric sander & makes masking up easier) , the lip round the edge was really badly curbed in places from the previous owner of the wheels so I put some 80 grit paper in an electric sander & took the lip back to bare metal all the way around until it all felt smooth then went over it again with 240 grit.

The bubbled bits I took back to bare metal with a wire drill attachment and then filled them with isopon p38, initial shaping done with 80 grit paper followed by 240. Same story inside the bolt holes pretty much, took the corrosion off with a wire drill attachment and then went round them all with 80 followed by 240 grit.

The whole wheel was then sanded with 400 grit paper to key the surface, this took absolutely ages with them being 9 spoke wheels, probably around 4-5 hours to do all four.

Mask off the wheels making sure to get the tape right up under the lip of the alloy then wrap the rest of the wheel in newspaper or dust sheets & lay them all out flat in the most dust free place you have available, has to be somewhere you can leave them for the best part of a week.

I then gave the bare metal lip and bolt holes a coat of etch primer as normal primer will probably cause issues. Left it for a few hours then went over the whole wheel with two coats of high build primer followed by normal grey primer the next day.

The following day each wheel got a coat of "Ford Stratos Silver", it took 2 cans to cover all four wheels nicely, i went over the faces half an hour later with a fine mist coat to get a nice metallic sparkle in the paint.

Again a day later time to clear coat, I started with the sides of the spokes and bolt holes first and went at them from a steep angle with the paint, did this twice about 30 mins apart, then the faces of the wheels had four coats of lacquer each throughout the day spaced out by about an hour.

Leave the wheels once lacquered for as long as you can before the next bit, at least a couple of days.

Take the wheels out and use 1200 grit paper on them all over, keep a cup of clean water near by and keep the paper wet, it stops it clogging up and makes it glide over the surface really easily, you want to end up with a nice smooth matt finish in the clearcoat with little to no orange peel.

Use something like Halfords rubbing compound to buff them back up, and once they are shiny again move on to buffing them out further with something like autoglym paint renovator followed by autoglym super resin polish

Get some wax on them, after about a month they will probably want a quick polish up and re-wax, probably a good idea to keep them clean for the first month or so too as rattle can stuff seems to take ages to fully cure.

I did think they might need a rebalance after as i'd put filler on them and a small amount of metal has been taken away, plus the fact there are several rattle cans worth of paint on each wheel but I've already done 400 miles on them and they are fine.
 
You can get 95% as good a finish just by sanding, priming, painting and replacing centre caps. I did mine in a few hours (involved an entire colour change as well) and they still look great.
 
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