Help please guys with my new loop temps..

Bone9

Bone9

Bone9

Associate
Joined
17 Jul 2015
Posts
1,206
Ok just finished my new watercooling loop (build thread in my sig) and not very happy with my cpu temps. What do you think?

Cold boot temps:
CPU - 23c
GPU - 23c

Pump @ 40% 1182rpm Fans @ 40% 440rpm

After 1/2 hr idle:
CPU - 26c
GPU - 27c

Pump @ 40% 1182rpm Fans @ 40% 440rpm

Heaven Benchmark for 2hrs 30mins 100% GPU load & 20% CPU load.

Stock CPU - 56c Max
Overclocked GPU - 52c Max

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

CPU-Z Stress Bench 15mins

Stock CPU - 77c Max @ 80-100% load
Overclocked GPU - 34c Max

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

Realbench Stresstest for 12 mins till I shut it down!

Stock CPU - 84c Max 100% load
Overclocked GPU - 40c Max 100% load

Core 0 hit 82c in 4mins 45 sec.

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

GTA 5 for 1hr

Stock CPU - 66c Max
Overclocked GPU - 48 Max

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

Whats going on? I have still got a few air bubbles in my cpu block. Could that cause it?

What else should I test?

Please help me guys.
 
Last edited:
thats a nice tidy build looking at your gta 5 temps I don't think they are bad nothing to wory about anyway if you have air in the rads and blocks once that has worked its way out temps will drop a bit. I have a 4790 @4.6 on two 280mm ut60s playing gta5 with fans at 1000rpm I have seen a max temp of 62 which im delighted with. some of the 4790s had really bad paste jobs on them
 
also have you manually set your voltages and tested how low you can get them if you haven't that will drop temps
 
move the case around to try to remove the air bubbles from the cpu block, but it might be a problem with the cpu block not sitting properly on the cpu and/or thermal paste.
 
Last edited:
Personally I would have thought with that much rad space you'd get better temps than that but it's not close to overheating so nothing to worry about really.

Next time you're doing a build consider adding some sort of water temperature sensor though as that would help to narrow down if the problem is related to a badly fitting block or if the loop isn't up to the job.

Personally after watercooling for almost a decade I'd never consider putting a loop together without both a water temp sensor and a flow meter but I'm a bit obsessive about system measurement and low temps.
 
queeg said:
thats a nice tidy build looking at your gta 5 temps I don't think they are bad nothing to wory about anyway if you have air in the rads and blocks once that has worked its way out temps will drop a bit. I have a 4790 @4.6 on two 280mm ut60s playing gta5 with fans at 1000rpm I have seen a max temp of 62 which im delighted with. some of the 4790s had really bad paste jobs on them
Click to expand...

queeg said:
also have you manually set your voltages and tested how low you can get them if you haven't that will drop temps
Click to expand...

Cheers mate :) Yeah I'm happy with the gaming temps just expected lower when stress testing.

I know nothing about cpu settings so everything is stock. What do I need to do?
 
Drangueos said:
move the case around to try to remove the air bubbles from the cpu block, but it might be a problem with the cpu block not sitting properly on the cpu and/or thermal paste.
Click to expand...

Will do but just before bed last night it looked like they have all gone pretty much. Will do some testing tonight.

Would my idle temps not be high also if the block is not fitted correctly?
 
Mikey C said:
Personally I would have thought with that much rad space you'd get better temps than that but it's not close to overheating so nothing to worry about really.

Next time you're doing a build consider adding some sort of water temperature sensor though as that would help to narrow down if the problem is related to a badly fitting block or if the loop isn't up to the job.

Personally after watercooling for almost a decade I'd never consider putting a loop together without both a water temp sensor and a flow meter but I'm a bit obsessive about system measurement and low temps.
Click to expand...

When I change the fluid I'll add a temp sensor, do you recommend any? Do I need a flow meter? I thought if I can see the pump rpm that would be enough.
 
Last edited:
This XSPC one will do the job. I don't think flow meters are necessary, plus I doubt that is your problem, but again there is no harm in adding one. As you've noticed, bubbles are already dissipating. That takes a while, but they will go eventually.

There is nothing that alarming here, although the Realbench test appears on the high side... but that is hardly representative of daily use. As noted, gaming temps are fine.
 
Legend said:
This XSPC one will do the job. I don't think flow meters are necessary, plus I doubt that is your problem, but again there is no harm in adding one. As you've noticed, bubbles are already dissipating. That takes a while, but they will go eventually.

There is nothing that alarming here, although the Realbench test appears on the high side... but that is hardly representative of daily use. As noted, gaming temps are fine.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think I'll pick one of those up when it comes to changing the fluid.

I'm not sure on my fans really. I had the glass off last night so I could feel the air coming in through the front rad and it wasn't much even at 100%. When I removed the fan filter that helped and you could easily feel the difference.

I think I might need higher sp fans to pull through the filter and then push through the rads. I think it would be a good idea to add a 3rd fan in the top front, unfiltered and no rad to push through bringing in fresh air.

Will do some more tests tonight with the door open and fliter removed, think I might just need a bit more airflow. I'm sure the loop is fine.
 
Have you delidded? I can run my 24/7 at 4.9Ghz no problem now. I'm voltage limited rather than temps which I was before.

Honestly it's the best and cheapest upgrade you can possibly do to lower your cpu temps.
 
Bone9 said:
Yeah I think I'll pick one of those up when it comes to changing the fluid.

I'm not sure on my fans really. I had the glass off last night so I could feel the air coming in through the front rad and it wasn't much even at 100%. When I removed the fan filter that helped and you could easily feel the difference.

I think I might need higher sp fans to pull through the filter and then push through the rads. I think it would be a good idea to add a 3rd fan in the top front, unfiltered and no rad to push through bringing in fresh air.

Will do some more tests tonight with the door open and fliter removed, think I might just need a bit more airflow. I'm sure the loop is fine.
Click to expand...

Just be careful with unfiltered intakes... dust will be your nemesis then, so maintaining positive pressure is important, but unfortunately it's always going to cling to some surfaces if you have no filters on the intakes... noticeably the glass more than anything else.
 
.:SAmSuNG:. said:
Have you delidded? I can run my 24/7 at 4.9Ghz no problem now. I'm voltage limited rather than temps which I was before.

Honestly it's the best and cheapest upgrade you can possibly do to lower your cpu temps.
Click to expand...

Its not the cheapest if you kill the CPU though so not for everyone, I've done it but its really worth stressing its not to be done without full confidence/acceptance of the risk it may render the CPU unusable...

Some pics of mine in this thread if you don't know what it is:

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18747853

I would check if its on auto voltage in BIOS as on my Asus board (Think you are on Gigabyte) it was quite aggressive so fixing on a lower voltage with a small amount of adaptive when you find the limits is advisable.
 
Bone9 said:
Will do but just before bed last night it looked like they have all gone pretty much. Will do some testing tonight.

Would my idle temps not be high also if the block is not fitted correctly?
Click to expand...

not really, sometimes while testing a pc before putting it together I installed the cooler without thermal paste, on idle it would be cool, but when stressing the cpu it would get hotter than normal.
 
Legend said:
Just be careful with unfiltered intakes... dust will be your nemesis then, so maintaining positive pressure is important, but unfortunately it's always going to cling to some surfaces if you have no filters on the intakes... noticeably the glass more than anything else.
Click to expand...

It's purely for a test mate. There might be one top front fan unfiltered if it makes much difference but it's quite hard for dust to get in if the doors closed.

I'd rather replace the fans and keep the filter in place :)
 
Legend said:
This XSPC one will do the job. I don't think flow meters are necessary, plus I doubt that is your problem, but again there is no harm in adding one.
Click to expand...

That temp sensor is fine, unless you have either a motherboard or fan controller with a 2 pin temp connector then the best bet is one with its own display.

Flow meters while not essential can help diagnose problems as the following example illustrates. At the time I was running 2 loops (1 each for CPU and GPU) and after a few months usage I started to get high temps on my CPU while the GPU was still fine. I checked all the normal things like was the block fitted correctly etc but I couldn't find the problem. It turns out that there was some debris built up inside the CPU block that was slowing the flow right down. If I looked in the res the water seemed to be flowing fine but it's only once I'd dismantled the block that I found the problem. If I'd had a flow sensor I would have seen that the flow had dropped over time.

BTW I highly doubt your issue is anything like mine as the debris in the block took some time to build up and was I think formed mainly from little bits of kitchen towel that I'd used to plug the rad holes to prevent water drops when I was fitting my previously used rad.
 
Smffy said:
Its not the cheapest if you kill the CPU though so not for everyone, I've done it but its really worth stressing its not to be done without full confidence/acceptance of the risk it may render the CPU unusable...

Some pics of mine in this thread if you don't know what it is:

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18747853

I would check if its on auto voltage in BIOS as on my Asus board (Think you are on Gigabyte) it was quite aggressive so fixing on a lower voltage with a small amount of adaptive when you find the limits is advisable.
Click to expand...

Thanks, looks like something I could easily do but I'll probably upgrade the motherboard and cpu this year or next so might just hold on.

Will check the voltage, hows the best way to find the limits?
 
Mikey C said:
That temp sensor is fine, unless you have either a motherboard or fan controller with a 2 pin temp connector then the best bet is one with its own display.

Flow meters while not essential can help diagnose problems as the following example illustrates. At the time I was running 2 loops (1 each for CPU and GPU) and after a few months usage I started to get high temps on my CPU while the GPU was still fine. I checked all the normal things like was the block fitted correctly etc but I couldn't find the problem. It turns out that there was some debris built up inside the CPU block that was slowing the flow right down. If I looked in the res the water seemed to be flowing fine but it's only once I'd dismantled the block that I found the problem. If I'd had a flow sensor I would have seen that the flow had dropped over time.

BTW I highly doubt your issue is anything like mine as the debris in the block took some time to build up and was I think formed mainly from little bits of kitchen towel that I'd used to plug the rad holes to prevent water drops when I was fitting my previously used rad.
Click to expand...

Gotcha
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom