Help please guys with my new loop temps..

Bone9

Bone9

Bone9

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Ok just finished my new watercooling loop (build thread in my sig) and not very happy with my cpu temps. What do you think?

Cold boot temps:
CPU - 23c
GPU - 23c

Pump @ 40% 1182rpm Fans @ 40% 440rpm

After 1/2 hr idle:
CPU - 26c
GPU - 27c

Pump @ 40% 1182rpm Fans @ 40% 440rpm

Heaven Benchmark for 2hrs 30mins 100% GPU load & 20% CPU load.

Stock CPU - 56c Max
Overclocked GPU - 52c Max

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

CPU-Z Stress Bench 15mins

Stock CPU - 77c Max @ 80-100% load
Overclocked GPU - 34c Max

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

Realbench Stresstest for 12 mins till I shut it down!

Stock CPU - 84c Max 100% load
Overclocked GPU - 40c Max 100% load

Core 0 hit 82c in 4mins 45 sec.

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

GTA 5 for 1hr

Stock CPU - 66c Max
Overclocked GPU - 48 Max

Pump @60% 2184rpm Fans @100% 1000rpm

Whats going on? I have still got a few air bubbles in my cpu block. Could that cause it?

What else should I test?

Please help me guys.
 
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queeg said:
thats a nice tidy build looking at your gta 5 temps I don't think they are bad nothing to wory about anyway if you have air in the rads and blocks once that has worked its way out temps will drop a bit. I have a 4790 @4.6 on two 280mm ut60s playing gta5 with fans at 1000rpm I have seen a max temp of 62 which im delighted with. some of the 4790s had really bad paste jobs on them
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queeg said:
also have you manually set your voltages and tested how low you can get them if you haven't that will drop temps
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Cheers mate :) Yeah I'm happy with the gaming temps just expected lower when stress testing.

I know nothing about cpu settings so everything is stock. What do I need to do?
 
Drangueos said:
move the case around to try to remove the air bubbles from the cpu block, but it might be a problem with the cpu block not sitting properly on the cpu and/or thermal paste.
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Will do but just before bed last night it looked like they have all gone pretty much. Will do some testing tonight.

Would my idle temps not be high also if the block is not fitted correctly?
 
Mikey C said:
Personally I would have thought with that much rad space you'd get better temps than that but it's not close to overheating so nothing to worry about really.

Next time you're doing a build consider adding some sort of water temperature sensor though as that would help to narrow down if the problem is related to a badly fitting block or if the loop isn't up to the job.

Personally after watercooling for almost a decade I'd never consider putting a loop together without both a water temp sensor and a flow meter but I'm a bit obsessive about system measurement and low temps.
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When I change the fluid I'll add a temp sensor, do you recommend any? Do I need a flow meter? I thought if I can see the pump rpm that would be enough.
 
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Legend said:
This XSPC one will do the job. I don't think flow meters are necessary, plus I doubt that is your problem, but again there is no harm in adding one. As you've noticed, bubbles are already dissipating. That takes a while, but they will go eventually.

There is nothing that alarming here, although the Realbench test appears on the high side... but that is hardly representative of daily use. As noted, gaming temps are fine.
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Yeah I think I'll pick one of those up when it comes to changing the fluid.

I'm not sure on my fans really. I had the glass off last night so I could feel the air coming in through the front rad and it wasn't much even at 100%. When I removed the fan filter that helped and you could easily feel the difference.

I think I might need higher sp fans to pull through the filter and then push through the rads. I think it would be a good idea to add a 3rd fan in the top front, unfiltered and no rad to push through bringing in fresh air.

Will do some more tests tonight with the door open and fliter removed, think I might just need a bit more airflow. I'm sure the loop is fine.
 
Legend said:
Just be careful with unfiltered intakes... dust will be your nemesis then, so maintaining positive pressure is important, but unfortunately it's always going to cling to some surfaces if you have no filters on the intakes... noticeably the glass more than anything else.
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It's purely for a test mate. There might be one top front fan unfiltered if it makes much difference but it's quite hard for dust to get in if the doors closed.

I'd rather replace the fans and keep the filter in place :)
 
Smffy said:
Its not the cheapest if you kill the CPU though so not for everyone, I've done it but its really worth stressing its not to be done without full confidence/acceptance of the risk it may render the CPU unusable...

Some pics of mine in this thread if you don't know what it is:

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18747853

I would check if its on auto voltage in BIOS as on my Asus board (Think you are on Gigabyte) it was quite aggressive so fixing on a lower voltage with a small amount of adaptive when you find the limits is advisable.
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Thanks, looks like something I could easily do but I'll probably upgrade the motherboard and cpu this year or next so might just hold on.

Will check the voltage, hows the best way to find the limits?
 
Mikey C said:
That temp sensor is fine, unless you have either a motherboard or fan controller with a 2 pin temp connector then the best bet is one with its own display.

Flow meters while not essential can help diagnose problems as the following example illustrates. At the time I was running 2 loops (1 each for CPU and GPU) and after a few months usage I started to get high temps on my CPU while the GPU was still fine. I checked all the normal things like was the block fitted correctly etc but I couldn't find the problem. It turns out that there was some debris built up inside the CPU block that was slowing the flow right down. If I looked in the res the water seemed to be flowing fine but it's only once I'd dismantled the block that I found the problem. If I'd had a flow sensor I would have seen that the flow had dropped over time.

BTW I highly doubt your issue is anything like mine as the debris in the block took some time to build up and was I think formed mainly from little bits of kitchen towel that I'd used to plug the rad holes to prevent water drops when I was fitting my previously used rad.
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Gotcha
 
OK so tested realbench 100% cpu load for 25mins with the case door open and front fan filter removed.

Pump @ 60% and fans @ 100% (1000rpm)

There was a 7-10c difference to my cpu temps.

Max temp for cpu was 77c and gpu 33c.

So that would suggest the case hasn't got the best air flow and surly to help that I need a 3rd fan in the front and better static pressure fans all round?

The intake has to draw air in through smallish vents around the side of the front when the door is closed then through a filter and lastly through the rad while also creating some air flow in the case itself.

What do you think?

Will test a game in a bit also.
 
new boy said:
hmmm. my 4790k runns at 55c max gaming overclocked at 4.7GHz with 2x 280 rads

I'm delidded though. Maybe buy a delid die mate? They are expencive, but you spent this much on a custom loop so....
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What case mate? No chance buying a delid would just do it myself or just get a new mb and cpu upgrade :)
 
Legend said:
Yeah as I suspected, air flow appears to be the culprit, but many cases suffer from this. At the end of the day, I wouldn't get too concerned. You can try different fans, but I don't know that this is going to make much of a difference, certainly not more than a few degrees.

Ultimately, Realbench isn't something you're running every day, and your game temps are fine. Short of moving to a new case, or leaving all the filters/panels off permanently (which is hardly a good idea), you're not really going to change things very much. I know how easy it is to get caught up with things like this, but (and stating the obvious here) just enjoy your system! :)
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So tempting to get sp fans though. What about the extra in the front? I can't help myself :)
 
Holst1981 said:
I would be happy with that.

Does closing the door increase temps much?

I would definitely fit a water temp sensor.
Cpu temp just doesn't give you enough information.
Ideally you would know air intake and case temp as well :)

I'm using an aqua aero to monitor temps and control fans.
Allows lots of clever stuff if your motherboard can't do much.
Largely unnecessary and expensive, but it's fun to play with.

Does pump speed make any difference?
I set mine so I can't hear it and leave it alone.

I don't see any change in temperature by increasing pump speed.
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Well with the filter and door on and closed the temps for Gta 5 rise to cpu 66 and gpu 48 so about a 6c rise.

I did look at one of those but have nowhere to mount it etc.

I just kept the pump speed low at idle so I can't hear it. It rises slightly when gaming but so do the fans so can't hear it then either.
 
Popped a Akasa apache black 120mm fan that I had laying around in the front just for a test and these are the results.

GTA5 for 1hr, fans 100%

CPU: 56-64c
GPU: 47-51c

Thats with the filters installed and door closed.

Without the fan with door closed and filtered I got...

CPU: 65-72c
GPU: 51c
 
Whoops just ordered these...

6x Noctua NF-A14 IndustrialPPC 2000RPM PWM 140mm High Performance Fan
Aqua Computer Aquaero 6 XT - Blue
Aqua Computer Passive Cooler for Aquaero 6
EK Water Blocks EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)
EK Water Blocks EK-Cable PWM Extension Cables Sleeved (30cm)

That should do it :)
 
Legend said:
If by 'do it', you mean take a huge wad of cash out your bank account for what is likely to be a rather small improvement, then yes, you nailed it! ;)

Be interesting to see what the difference actually is.
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It's fine mate, I tested with one fan and it done the job so these will do even better. Also looking forward to setting up and monitoring all the temps etc with the controller.

I tried not to crack but knowing that I had air flow fans instead of static pressure I couldn't let it go :)
 
Found the problem guy's!!!!! :)

This weekend I emptied the coolant and used Mayhem's blitz cleaning kit. Flushed the system, fitted a water temp sensor in the res, removed the cpu block (more on this is a sec), fitted a 140mm high speed be quiet silent wings 3 fan as an air intake in the front and finally filled with fresh Mayhem's Pre mixed X1 clear uv blue coolant.

The old (1 month) coolant had some small particles and what looked like oil in it and the ph was off.

The cpu paste looked good...





I decided to strip and clean the cpu block while it was off and found out that the micro channels were facing the wrong way! When I first installed this I just reassembled the same way it was in the box but with he correct plates etc. I assumed the block was built correctly in the first place. While looking at it I just though that didn't look right so a quick look up online confirmed that I had the base plate on the wrong way. The channels were going up and down rather than left and right.



Rebuilt the system and everything is so much better. Much better flow, loads easier to bleed and the temps are now brilliant.

This is with the door open, not tested with it closed but am still working on the airflow door.

Realbench 100% load

CPU max 63.2c with no rad fans spinning. 57-58c max with rad fans on.
GPU max 48c with no rad fans spinning. 42c max with rad fans on.

So happy that same test hit 84c with max fans in a lot less time and continued rising till I shut down the test. 26c difference!!!!
 
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