Car detailing advice
- Thread starter masscrazy
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I would rather pay somebody to do it, to easy to remove too much paint.
There is hrs worth of buffing a whole car and if you have not done it before to easy to make mistakes.
Most guys get an old car door or boot lid from a scrappy to practice first.
There is hrs worth of buffing a whole car and if you have not done it before to easy to make mistakes.
Most guys get an old car door or boot lid from a scrappy to practice first.
That looks a lot of swirls to remove vith a da polisher, its possible to do but will take a while, so would also probably pay someone to do it, it would be a lot easier with a rotary but they are harder to use and easier to cause damage.
You could do the whole car with a couple of pads say a cutting and a polishing in both sizes.
I use the menzerna polishes and allways seem to do a good job but not tried anything else.
You could do the whole car with a couple of pads say a cutting and a polishing in both sizes.
I use the menzerna polishes and allways seem to do a good job but not tried anything else.
Soldato
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I use 105/205 with a rupes rotary... Not that I am particularly experienced but with a modicum of common sense they're not difficult to use... Just buy a rotary, so much more effective than a DA.
Only word of advice would be to start really mild both pad and compound. Keep it moist and make sure the panel isn't getting hot.
Only word of advice would be to start really mild both pad and compound. Keep it moist and make sure the panel isn't getting hot.
Well the intention was to spend a weeekend doing it myself, i'm quite looking forward to it..
I've heard modern paint is super hard, when working with them. Audi in black especially according to people on the cardetailing forum.
I reckon i need a serious cutting compound based on the swirl scratches i've seen. Which would be best for that?
I've heard modern paint is super hard, when working with them. Audi in black especially according to people on the cardetailing forum.
I reckon i need a serious cutting compound based on the swirl scratches i've seen. Which would be best for that?
FG400 is one of Menzerna's most aggressive, might have to even step up to a wool pad but be careful!
https://www.menzerna.com/products/polishes/car-polishes/heavy-cut/heavy-cut-compound-400/
So i am considering these:
Seems like a good option and the best for removing the heavy swirl marks. Also hear Audi/German cars have pretty hard paint and require additional effort.
Seems like a good option and the best for removing the heavy swirl marks. Also hear Audi/German cars have pretty hard paint and require additional effort.
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I bought the Menzerna kit above a couple of years ago, along with some extra pads and a smaller backing plate.
I used it on my old Skoda, was pretty easy and I got great results. Just take it slow and careful and take the time to prep well.
I used it on my old Skoda, was pretty easy and I got great results. Just take it slow and careful and take the time to prep well.
It's hard to do it with a rotary let alone a DA.
I'd forget dual action polishers and just go straight to a rotary. People online act like it's really easy to damage your paintwork, but all you have to do is not run it too fast, keep moving it over the bodywork and don't just do one area and make sure the panel doesn't get too hot. It's *really* not as difficult as everyone makes out.
The PITA with machine polishing comes from the prep - you need to clean the car, dry it, then clay bar it, then wash it again then tape up textured plastics that the polish will damage. And this is 3-4 hours work you've got to do before you've even got the machine polisher out of the box!
Can be really quite hard to achieve a hologram free finish with a rotary though, with a DA it's a piece of cake. They each have their uses. I don't have the patience for using a DA for correction it takes absolutely for ever and you have white finger by the end of it.
Soldato
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I can get a hologrm free finish with a rotary, you just have to tke your time and do some slow passes towards the end with a softer pad. Ive tried correction with a DA and they just dont have the balls to do a quick job. Personally if you do go with a DA, then just aim to do a couple of panels at a time, with the lighter evenings, its easier just to do a panel at a time, and do it properly. plus that way you can take your time and try different polishes grades, id not go for the harshest compound 1st.
Indeed. Although basically every single post/video i've seen says use a DA. So i'm not doubting the advice, but Im a noob at this and will stick with it.
Also realise that its a few days job. Wash/clay one day, rinse/compound(and polish maybe)/wax.
To avoid wasting money since this will be only done to max 2 cars, max twice a year, I am still not sure which products to go for. I know the DAS6 pro but not sure on the compound and which to start with.
I suppose the options are really aggressive meguiars MF system and 300 compound and a lighter pad if MF is too harsh. Or stick with heavy/med/light grade pads and pretty abrasive compound like the FG400 and use with one of the different grade pads, depending on what is needed.
Also realise that its a few days job. Wash/clay one day, rinse/compound(and polish maybe)/wax.
To avoid wasting money since this will be only done to max 2 cars, max twice a year, I am still not sure which products to go for. I know the DAS6 pro but not sure on the compound and which to start with.
I suppose the options are really aggressive meguiars MF system and 300 compound and a lighter pad if MF is too harsh. Or stick with heavy/med/light grade pads and pretty abrasive compound like the FG400 and use with one of the different grade pads, depending on what is needed.
Soldato
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I think the detailing fad nowadays is a bit OTT, a silverline rotary with a bit of practice is far far better than a megs or similar DA loved by the DW nuts! yes if you run a detailing business, its worth spending top dollar on a makita or similar, but a silverline with some decent pads and polishes is all you need imo.