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Delid & Apply Liquid metal

CivilDrone

CivilDrone

CivilDrone

Associate
Joined
25 Apr 2011
Posts
2,380
Location
Crawley/Gatwick
Morning
I am ready to move on and crack open 6700K
Was wondering what works best, what should be applied
Read that Prolimatech PK-3 and Cool Laboratory Liquid Pro thermal compound worked well on test
Can anyone share their knowledge with a newb? :D
 
Thermal Grizzly is fantastic, Kryonaut is the TIM and Conductonaut is the liquid metal. Put Conductonaut on the die and Kryonaut on the IHS.
 
Might sound silly but once you delid and clean cpu of the old crap tim, apply Kryo on the chip and place the lid back on then apply liquid metal on the top of the lid?
 
Remove the old TIM and silicone adhesive, 99% isopropyl alcohol is great for that. You apply a very small amount of the liquid metal directly to the die (the chip), be sure to read the instructions that come with. If you're concerned about making a mess, use 4 strips of tape to surround the die so that if you do make a mess, it's on the tape and you can just peel it off. Your option then is to either reseal the IHS to the PCB using silicone adhesive or just use the motherboard clamp to hold it in place, the latter is less effort and perfectly fine. Then apply the Kryonaut TIM as you usually would, prior to mounting your heatsink.
 
Ello,

Pics of mine and bits of info here:

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/6700k-delidding-fun-with-knives.18747853/

To answer some of the questions...

  1. Delid and clean up the chip to remove paste
  2. Remove the old Black sealant
  3. Carefully apply CLU or conductanaut (which is new since I did mine). Key word, careful, it's strange stuff and as the name suggests it's conductive. Use the cleaning wipe and small brush to spread. I wouldn't use this on my GPU it's to risky and really not needed.
  4. Apply some black gasket seal and reseat the IHS, or just carefully secure in the socket and don't bother
  5. Don't use CLU on top of the IHS, you can but it will discolour your block and honestly a good compound is totally fine, it's also a large area to cover and you'll see you really don't get much
Hope that helps, probably drop 10-15c off your temps if done as above.

Good luck!
 
It is important to evenly apply liquid metal on the die (the chip) and re-lid it. This is the key to minimise discrepancy of load temperatures among cores. Careless handling would result in one core being 10C hotter than the others under full load.
 
voidshatter said:
It is important to evenly apply liquid metal on the die (the chip) and re-lid it. This is the key to minimise discrepancy of load temperatures among cores. Careless handling would result in one core being 10C hotter than the others under full load.
Click to expand...

It is most definitely important to evenly apply it. However, it's important to understand the behaviour of your CPU prior to delidding. It's not unheard of to have a core that is ~10c hotter than the rest anyway. You might reduce that number somewhat by delidding, but it's not going to fix the problem altogether. You're still going to have 1 core hotter than the rest. This is why it's important to run a few stress tests and what not prior to delidding so you have an idea of what you're dealing with.
 
I have been seriously considering doing this to my 4770k as i am seeing temps of 80c under load currently. A 10c improvement would be a great thing to see.

What is the current best compound to use once the lid is off?
 
dazzlaa said:
I have been seriously considering doing this to my 4770k as i am seeing temps of 80c under load currently. A 10c improvement would be a great thing to see.

What is the current best compound to use once the lid is off?
Click to expand...

Any of the metal compounds so formerly CLU (Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra) and the now released Grizzly Conducta. Not quite the same as normal compounds but the results far superior for under the IHS.
 
I've got all of the tools etc to do delids and I've tried it out with good results even on two G3258 chips, although I used NH1 under the IHS on those. I have a tube of liquid metal ultra with the intention of doing my 7700K, but I keep reading mixed opinions on how well it lasts over time. Some people say it holds up for years no problem and then other people are saying that after a few months their temps started increasing.

Ideally I want something I can just put under the IHS that I can reseal without having to faff around with it again any time soon. Are these people not applying liquid metal correctly, or does it just not do well over time?
 
Thermal compound pastes have a limited life on the die due to a pumping effect caused by expanding gasses. This is why you'll notice that Intel leave a gap in their silicone adhesive, to allow gasses to escape. Liquid metal, however, adheres very well to the die and is not susceptible to the same pumping effect due to its consistency. In short, if you use liquid metal on the die, you'll be fine to leave it.
 
To me this seems like a really brave/risky thing to do. Is voiding your warranty really worth the performance bump?
 
nkuk said:
To me this seems like a really brave/risky thing to do. Is voiding your warranty really worth the performance bump?
Click to expand...

To the majority of people, no. However, this forum is rather insulated, there's a lot of hardware enthusiasts here who strive to get maximum performance out of their hardware.
 
Smffy said:
Any of the metal compounds so formerly CLU (Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra) and the now released Grizzly Conducta. Not quite the same as normal compounds but the results far superior for under the IHS.
Click to expand...

Cheers mate. I plan on giving this a go as I do not have a "project" currently. Should be an interesting experience.
 
I found it worthwhile, rig in my sig.
Dropped max temps from about 80 to about 70.
Thus allowing me to run my voltage a bit higher at better temperature and subsequently my overclock a bit higher.

Delidded and used thermal grizzly kryonought throughout as I didn't fancy the faf of the liquid metal stuff.

Just take delidding slow as the PCB on newer CPU's is quite thin and you can bend it if you are not careful. I bent mine but it bent back Ok when clamped into the socket and works fine, but obviously you want to avoid doing that if possible.

I just used a Stanley knife razor blade, and did it when I was drunk, because I'm an animal lol!

IMG_20170425_215631_zpse7armugb.jpg
 
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Drunken Stanley knife blade method lol!

It was taking too long and I got frustrated so I rushed the job and used too much force.

CPU is fine though, so I'm guessing you'd have to be extremely ham fisted to damage the CPU.
 
Nope skylake PCB are thin, but PCB's are a lot stronger and more flexible than people give them credit for! That's not to say you won't damage the circuits though. YMMV.
 
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