We went as a couple which is going to be a completely different trip than one 'on the lash' with friends. We stayed for 5 nights which was pretty much bang on, although going for 4 nights would be good too. Any longer would be too long IMO - we did omit to visit Red Rock national park but you could squeeze that in. If it were a 'lash' trip, I'd say go for 3 nights max (my body couldn't handle any longer). Not being on the lash meant relatively early mornings and modest evenings. There was generally a much better atmosphere in the evenings and you also avoided the sun, so I wouldn't be too concerned about making the most of a big lie in and staying up later (the downtown area only really perked up later at night). On the flip side, there was much less hustle in the day.
Arriving from the airport at night made for a fantastic taxi journey - seeing all the hotels lit up from a distance was a treat in itself
We stayed at the Venetian which was easily my favourite of all the hotels we walked through. It was nice to have an entrance lobby that was slightly tucked away from the casino (which you learn to appreciate after walking into many hotels to be greeted by the same slot machines). The room was the best room I have ever stayed in and I gather it was just their standard room. Absolutely enormous! I think we fluked out with the location of our room too - on the 30th floor (I see what you did there) with a view of Caesers, which was really close to the lobby / casino rather than a trek. I could not get my head around just how massive they were. Holy crap! Caesars Palace and the MGM Grand went on forever. I wouldn't want to stay any further away than the Venetian though, as you want to be able to make a quick 15 minute walk to the Bellagio fountains area. The Cosmopolitan was the second nicest of those we visited (although I didn't go to the Aria) and the Bellagio had the best location - the fountain show was well worth seeing both at day and at night. The hotels I'd suggest avoiding were New York New York and Paris, which were both a bit trashy in comparison (the latter even being slightly smutty). The big apple coaster in New York New York was horribly bumpy and unless you're in the front seats you can't see where you were going, so I'd say give it a skip unless you're hardcore for it. Rio (aside from the fun Kiss mini-golf which was a fun time filler) and Circus Circus were also shockingly naff - avoid!
The whole 'smoke in the casinos' thing never really bothered us and only in a couple of very specific places within the whole floor of the casinos did we move on because of smoke. It's not as bad as I imagined it would be. That said, the constant air conditioning gave us gross crusty / bloody noses and a google reveals this is quite common! Maybe take a nasal spray.
For a day or two, I couldn't make my mind up of what I thought of the casinos and their endless slot machines but I gave up on being prude and they soon grew on me - we had a lot of fun losing our money. Some of the slot machines were an absolute joy to play, my favourites probably being the Adam West Batman machines (
@Dianbobo - you're right, it was hilarious

), the Sharknado machines and the Game of Thrones one. All larger than life and ridiculous with movie clips and silly sounds. They was even a Downton Abbey one (??!) which I won a (small) jackpot on. My luck was generally horrendous... particularly with blackjack. I did find that the Cromwell casino on the strip was the only place that paid 3/2 for getting a blackjack, whilst the rest gave 6/5. To compensate for this the dealer told me I'd only get one card if I split my aces... not sure if they were confused with the double down rules but perhaps it was a house rule... not sure, worth looking into if you're a serious gambler.
I also threw my hat into some poker games, which was actually a really scary thing to do but OK once you are sat down. It'll be obvious to everyone there you're new to casino poker so don't even try to hide it. The nicest place to start is definitely in the Flamingo poker room as they have 2/4 dollar limit games (so no chance of someone raising you by a thousand dollars - much less stressful). I won a fair bit here but later in the week I sat in a no limit game at Caesers... holy poop that was frightening. Plenty of raises in the realms of hundreds of dollars! I ended up losing two big hands: got a straight on the flop only to be beaten by a flush on the river, and got a set of aces on the flop only to be beaten by a straight on the river.... hurrrrrgnnnn so annoying! That's what you get for trying to raise like a bawler on the turn with what other big fish players consider pocket money... so they called. I did feel I got my own back on the last day by betting our last dollars on a $15 dollar minimum bet roulette table (which attracts wealthier gamblers than the $5/$10 tables), putting it all on red and excitedly winning (to much self-cheering) 4 times in a row whilst they all lost hundreds and hundreds
We did a helicopter tour with Sundance helicopters to go and see the west rim of the Grand Canyon and it was brilliant, probably the trip highlight. Would absolutely recommend. We stayed at the Canyon for about 30 minutes which was fine. We'll have to go and see the 'real' part of the Grand Canyon another day - sure we didn't see the best bit but since you also get to see the strip from the air, the hoover damn, save about 7/8 hours travelling and get to fly around in a frickin' choppa, it's really quite a good compromise.
The only very slight 'mire' was that after being dropped off post-choppa in a 'complimentary' car, in our excitement we omitted to trip the driver who grumpily reminded us that he worked off tips - which I apologised for and obliged. I suppose it's a completely different culture to the UK but to my mind asking for a tip is a bit weird... particularly after spending hundreds on a trip with his employer. Otherwise, we didn't encounter this sort of behaviour having given a dollar or two to all other drivers. Probably best to make sure you have some one dollar bills handy.
Battlefield Vegas was as ridiculous as everyone here has said already, but also quite pricey (as you may have guessed this turned out to be a very expensive trip!). We both shot a glock, an MP5, a remmington rifle and shotgun (Mrs. Nitefly being the better shot). I also had a go on an Uzi, a Steyr Aug and a Deagle. It was all over very quickly and cost about £400 but what an experience!
We saw three shows in total. Ka was a Cirque Du Soleil production and boggled my tiny mind as the stage itself levitated, moved around and even went vertical. Would recommend everyone saw this - how they even designed it / came up with the visuals and stunts perplexed me. They did some stunts with an apparatus called a 'wheel of death' which apparently actually made me loudly gasp 'noooo!' with shock
Absinthe was a more typical and intimate circus affair. It was very impressive and absolutely hilarious but even I was shocked at how far they went - basically the ringmaster found a random Asian lady from the audience and proceeded to go "ching chong ching choing ching - do you likey the shooowwww?" before getting her up on the stage and asking her to paint his nails

before being asked to judge which of two audience members' dancing (a black guy and a white guy who got equal abuse) most moistened her sashimi

Though it was an absolute car crash everyone got attacked: black, gay, white, men, women. Yeah... I can see it upsetting some people though, so be warned!
We also saw Britney and we had a great time at this - she blatantly wasn't singing but there was enough dancing and fun pop tunes going on to get us and the crowd pumped up. Some of it unintentionally hilarious (like when she started flying about in a big angel suit) and some intentionally hilarious (when an audience member was made to walk about on all fours as Britney's slave)
Other things - the pinball museum was amazing, would deffo go to this. The stratosphere tower was rather underwhelming and I'd suggest skipping especially if you go into a helicopter anyway (which provides better views). Mob museum was OK to pass the time although I didn't feel like a really learned anything other than 'mob guys were BAD'. Freemont street / downtown is definitely a night-time thing as it was rather quiet in the day and nowhere near as appealing.
Food - I agree that it was generally cheap and average or very, very expensive. On the first night we had a snack portion of Sushi and two beers which came to £70! We went to Vic and Anthony's on
@Techno_Viking 's recommendation and it really was very good (thanks!) but again quite pricey. Six (small) oysters, two steaks with peppercorn sauce, two sides and two glasses of wine came to £180. The best value we got was from the rolling BBQ smokehouse... that was unbelievable, such great food
Ok - that'll do
