Speaker upgrade :)

Your head is still stuck in the old fashioned way of doing things.

Would it make more sense to you if the front L&R channel speaker wires went to the sub first, then from the sub to the L&R speakers?

You can do this it's called high pass. Works great in hifi if your speakers are bookshelf. Basically bass managment.

I do something similar, I use outlaw icbm1 between pre and power amps in 2 Ch system.


In stereo send full range to sub use subs crossover. Ok to send full range to speakers as music doesn't have mega low bass

Stuck to stereo as when it comes to av you have it wrong.
 
the best high level input for a sub is one that's pure, no eq. This generally means bigger front speakers with a flatter bottom end are a requirement - it's much more difficult to match a sub and satellites using a high level signal and any eq'ing for the front speakers naturally ends up being eq'd on the sub as well and it gets messy. This is where it makes little sense to me; the idea of bigger speakers being easier to match with a sub using high level inputs is directly at odds with why we would use a sub for music in the first place - to relieve the main speakers of that sub bass and infrasonic load.



Except you loose the ability to individually eq the front speakers properly.



I dont think there's a sub out there without some kind of digital alignment that has a perfectly flat phase response. You know this - the phase knob changes the alignment of the sub, yes, but it only shifts the entire spectrum by x degrees and the problem is you might get that sub aligned at 60hz but it might still be 180 degrees out of phase at 30hz and that's a big problem if you're running full range fronts with their own phase responses.

Yup room eq and delay setup mic on avr would screw it all up if sub receives sub and full range via high level.

Be complete mess.

Lucid stop telling people to set left right to large. Should be set to small . Unless they have speakers with subs in same unit and floorestander does 20hz - 20khz.

Totally ignore rel and mj, follow avr setup. Pure direct means sub receives nothing.

Simply if you have avr use RCA only from lfe our, run auto setup, roomeq distance let it do its thing ..then change crossovers to match what your speakers do. If you have book shelf and it sets to large, change to small 80hz.

If you want sub on in music use Yamaha straight mode if Yamaha avr. Stereo with bass managment and sub on.

If you want high level to sub use this only for stereo amp ie audiolab 8000s, only not in avrs.
 
the best high level input for a sub is one that's pure, no eq. This generally means bigger front speakers with a flatter bottom end are a requirement - it's much more difficult to match a sub and satellites using a high level signal and any eq'ing for the front speakers naturally ends up being eq'd on the sub as well and it gets messy. This is where it makes little sense to me; the idea of bigger speakers being easier to match with a sub using high level inputs is directly at odds with why we would use a sub for music in the first place - to relieve the main speakers of that sub bass and infrasonic load.

Just clarify for me would you James, because there's seems to be a contradiction or two in what you're saying here. You're advocating using EQ to sort out each speaker's in room response, and yet you start by saying that the best input signal for a sub is one where speaker EQ isn't used. Which is it?

In order to get the sort of in-room benefits you're hinting at i.e. ones where the differences between EQ'ing a single sub supplementing the front stereo channels versus lets say two full range speakers + a sub for each become clearly audible, then surely you're talking about a level of sophistication in the processing software processing that goes way beyond the average AV Receiver? In fact, you're whole reference to infrasonics in music takes the discussion to a realm of gear way above the price bracket of £250 subs and mid-market AV receivers. It's an entirely different discussion.


Except you loose the ability to individually eq the front speakers properly.
Again. in the context of @jetpaczx application then it's not even relevant.


I dont think there's a sub out there without some kind of digital alignment that has a perfectly flat phase response.
That sounds like it's an important statement but you and I both know it's a bit of smoke and mirrors to try enhance your point.

You know this - the phase knob changes the alignment of the sub, yes, but it only shifts the entire spectrum by x degrees and the problem is you might get that sub aligned at 60hz but it might still be 180 degrees out of phase at 30hz and that's a big problem if you're running full range fronts with their own phase responses.
Yes, the phase knob does change the timing of the entire audio spectrum for the sub. It's exactly the same effect as moving the sub. In fact it's exactly the same effect as moving any speaker.

I don't know where this obsession with large front speakers has suddenly come from? What I was talking about was about running the front channels of an AVR in full range mode and using a sub to fill in the bottom end for speakers that couldn't get down there on their own.

Also, the sort of EQ that has the sophistication to change the way bass notes propagate within a room so that no bass wave trough ever arrives at the multiple seating positions for any listener, and yet doesn't impart a sonic fingerprint on the music, is at a level of sophistication that's beyond the financial reach of the average user. TACT, Lyngdorf, Trinnov perhaps, but we're talking almost £30,000 for some of those solution invested in just the pre-amp before any power amps, speakers and source gear has been purchased.
 
You don't know what you are talking about.

Room eq setup in avr basically lfe as be set with much then bass to sub via Hugh level which is set with mic on Main And sub lol

Speakers crossover no way set standmihnt to large in movies.

Issue with power when set to large

Time alignment takes into consideration subs own delay in processing and distance. But by using left and right plus lfe its buggered.

Don't put set up my home theater lo

Stupid phone auto correct.

Ignore rel, follow what avr manual says.

I'm glad you said that because I was ROTFLMAO at the vision of you wildly stabbing at a keyboard, red faced with steam coming out of your ear, and screaming at he device like a complete mad man. Ha ha ha.
 
You can do this it's called high pass. Works great in hifi if your speakers are bookshelf. Basically bass managment.

I do something similar, I use outlaw icbm1 between pre and power amps in 2 Ch system.


In stereo send full range to sub use subs crossover. Ok to send full range to speakers as music doesn't have mega low bass

Stuck to stereo as when it comes to av you have it wrong.
Well, most music doesn't. With natural instruments it's only really the very large pipe organs, one of the largest brass instruments and Concert Grand pianos with an extended keyboard that get down below 20Hz. Even then, the music has to be written including the use of those notes.

Electronic music is something different of course, but again these sounds are so difficult to reproduce that for most listeners they're just not there.

For the rest of it in relation to AV use, you can still run the EQ on all channels. A receiver's bass management and room EQ will still work. Not withstanding @james.miller's point about EQ'ing one for one sub, which is really more about the relative position of the sub in respect to the two front channel speakers, the receiver's EQ will treat the fronts supplemented by the sub as large speakers attached to the amplifier front channel connections just as it would EQ'ing a pair of full range large floorstanders. So really, where's the problem?
 
Just clarify for me would you James, because there's seems to be a contradiction or two in what you're saying here. You're advocating using EQ to sort out each speaker's in room response, and yet you start by saying that the best input signal for a sub is one where speaker EQ isn't used. Which is it?

No, no contradiction intended there, sorry if it wasnt clear. Sticking with the stereo 2 channel amp; if you are using small speakers, you are more likely to want to use some kind of EQ, even if it's just tweak the bass knob for example. because the sub is driven with a high level output from that amp, any tweaking is also applied to the sub. Additionally, you cant do the opposite to remove the bottom end from the speakers because that too negatively affects the high level output to the sub. Ideally you want a flat unadulterated input for that sub; if you are using high level, this means you really want some big speakers up front with a decent bottom end response of their own because they also need to be able to handle all the frequencies you are also sending to the sub and do so at high output levels. This means bookshelf speakers for example are normally not an acceptable solution for subs connected with high-level signals which is why it's at odds with why you would use a sub in the first place.

In order to get the sort of in-room benefits you're hinting at i.e. ones where the differences between EQ'ing a single sub supplementing the front stereo channels versus lets say two full range speakers + a sub for each become clearly audible, then surely you're talking about a level of sophistication in the processing software processing that goes way beyond the average AV Receiver? In fact, you're whole reference to infrasonics in music takes the discussion to a realm of gear way above the price bracket of £250 subs and mid-market AV receivers. It's an entirely different discussion.

not really, it's not all or nothing. Most mid range receivers these days have some kind of room correction software built in with varying levels of accuracy. Stereo amps dont have any of it of course.

james.miller said:
Except you loose the ability to individually eq the front speakers properly.
lucid said:
Again. in the context of @jetpaczx application then it's not even relevant.

Not if you are using small speakers. You tell me people run bookshelf speakers totally flat on a stereo amp with a sub hooked up? lol

james.miller said:
I dont think there's a sub out there without some kind of digital alignment that has a perfectly flat phase response.
lucid said:
That sounds like it's an important statement but you and I both know it's a bit of smoke and mirrors to try enhance your point.

Really, you think that? What happens when a subs response at 30hz is 180 degrees out of phase with the main speakers driven off the amp that the sub is receiving it's high-level input from? antiphase. cancellation and all sorts of other weirdness and you cant do anything to fix it unless you use high pass filters on the main speakers.

lucid said:
Yes, the phase knob does change the timing of the entire audio spectrum for the sub. It's exactly the same effect as moving the sub. In fact it's exactly the same effect as moving any speaker.

I don't know where this obsession with large front speakers has suddenly come from? What I was talking about was about running the front channels of an AVR in full range mode and using a sub to fill in the bottom end for speakers that couldn't get down there on their own.

I believe i have explained that now.

lucid said:
Also, the sort of EQ that has the sophistication to change the way bass notes propagate within a room so that no bass wave trough ever arrives at the multiple seating positions for any listener, and yet doesn't impart a sonic fingerprint on the music, is at a level of sophistication that's beyond the financial reach of the average user. TACT, Lyngdorf, Trinnov perhaps, but we're talking almost £30,000 for some of those solution invested in just the pre-amp before any power amps, speakers and source gear has been purchased.

smoke and mirrors! nobody is talking about that level of correction. Simply not necessary for anything like a sensible installation.
 
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So you're saying lucid that all avr makers and thx are wrong when it comes to bass managment? And that rel and mj are special.

You do not run your speakers full range in a av system, period. No way would you send full range to mains and sub.

Your method us when using in a stereo system , no bass managment.

You don't seem to grasp that sub and main speaker distance and delay would be messed up when sending two signals that are designed to be sent to the speakers independently, and not mixed with bodge attempt at doing it wrong.
 
I "don't know where this obsession with large front speakers has suddenly come from? What I was talking about was about running the front channels of an AVR in full range mode and using a sub to fill in the bottom end for speakers that couldn't get down there on their own."


You are doing it wrong. What do you think bass management is for? Try running standmounts in full range watch a action movie. It'll sound bad, lots of distortion amp driving full range when there is no point, speakers distorting, double bass effect, totally screwed up delay during auto setup between lfe, stereo bass and bass sent from amp stereo speaker outputs to sub.

Sorry but you are clueless.

Follow the avr instructions, ignore rel and mj because they are stuck in the past with zero understanding if bass management, and avrs.
 
OK after some thought I am going to reorganise the room, the speakers will be on stands and about 1 metre away from the wall...

Does this change the recommended one :)
 
OK after some thought I am going to reorganise the room, the speakers will be on stands and about 1 metre away from the wall...

Does this change the recommended one :)

Yes, hugely. You've gone from having too much bass reinforcement from the rear wall to very little at all. Now you're looking for speakers that are bass-rich to compensate. Stand-mounters: Used: original B&W DM601 S1 perhaps? Floorstanders (because, lets face it, they take up the same floor area so it's no different to speakers on stands, but you get more bass) - again in the used market because cheap new floor-standers are a waste of money - Monitor Audio BX5, Mission 752.
 
Yes, hugely. You've gone from having too much bass reinforcement from the rear wall to very little at all. Now you're looking for speakers that are bass-rich to compensate. Stand-mounters: Used: original B&W DM601 S1 perhaps? Floorstanders (because, lets face it, they take up the same floor area so it's no different to speakers on stands, but you get more bass) - again in the used market because cheap new floor-standers are a waste of money - Monitor Audio BX5, Mission 752.

What space should I have then?
 
The general guide is around 12-18" (30-45cm). It does vary with speakers and the room though.

KEFs are generally considered a bit bass-lite because the cabinets are very well damped to they don't colour the sound. You can put them closer to the rear wall without upsetting to tonal balance too much. The 90's KEF Reference Mark One had extra bass speakers hidden out-of-view inside the cabinet, and by modern KEF standards that made them pretty bassy, but again the cabinets were well made to they could live closer to the rear wall than you'd expect for such large speakers.

By contrast, I was at a customer's house sorting out their AV system when I noticed that had a pair of B&W DM601 S1 set up with a Denon amp and CD system in another room. I asked them how often they used this gear. They said rarely. The speakers were on decent stands but jammed in to the alcoves either side of a fire place. It looked neat but sounded awful. Way too much bass. It took pulling the speakers forward a good 18" and stuffing the bass ports with socks to get them something close to listen-able. It wasn't practical in that room though because it was wide and shallow so the speakers were about 3ft from the sofa; just too close for comfortable listening.


I know Hornetstinger will lose the plot when I suggest it again, but in your room I'd still go for higher-quality bookshelf speakers coupled with a sub. They'll give you the clarity you're seeking without asking too much of the power from the amp. The sub will fill in below where the the bookshelf speaker's bass output tails off, and you can tailor the bass response to better suit the room and your listening position.
 
Ok change of circumstances...

I have the space for Floorstanders, budget is still the same £200-£300

I can position them at optimal places ie 12" from wall.
 
Ok change of circumstances...

I have the space for Floorstanders, budget is still the same £200-£300

I can position them at optimal places ie 12" from wall.
I know this will feel frustrating for you, but budget floors-standers aren't great. The problem is the cabinets. There's not enough money at the manufacturing stage to pay for the quality of materials and manufacturing to make the boxes stiff enough that they don't have vibration problems.

None of this stops manufacturers from making them of course. A lot of people are seduced by the size and the promise of the extra bit of bottom-end reach, but they're never told by the retailer about the pitfalls. IMO the break-even point for floorstanders made well enough that there aren't too many trade-offs is around £450-£500. At that point you're getting the same precision of bass (ability to stop and start cleanly) as well as the ability to follow the tune as the standmount speakers one model below, but gaining the extra bass depth.

For the money you have to spend I'd agree that second-hand is definitely the place to look.
 
yup that's why I said get second hand floorstanders. Budget floorstanders are pretty crap, at that money I'd go standmounts.

But if you buy second hand you should be able to get something decent, a pair of Celestion A2's go for about £300, and they were £1600 new. Superb speakers, but at 4ohm could be a problem with budget avrs
 
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