Suspension clonking does this fitted right?

pastymuncher said:
That new nut is supposed to be where it is as I looked up the Almera's setup yesterday. It's not like a normal setup.
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Just had a look, those look extremely odd and annoying...but there should be a washer or in most cases the new nut should have an integrated washer / flange for butting up to the ARB rather than a normal flat faced nut. That's some poor fitting work anyway.
 
On an unrelated note, who buys a car without checking how much MOT is left? Probably the most important thing to do when buying something old, cheap, and Jap! :eek:
 
Acme said:
On an unrelated note, who buys a car without checking how much MOT is left? Probably the most important thing to do when buying something old, cheap, and Jap! :eek:
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I bought it off my mum for like 300 quid. I just didn't realise when it was due exactly as it had at least 9 months when I got it.
 
pastymuncher said:
That new nut is supposed to be where it is as I looked up the Almera's setup yesterday. It's not like a normal setup.
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(for my education) Do you mean the thread should be visible , between nut and roll bar ? or just that a washer should be filling the gap ?

has the nut just walked/vibrated its way undone, ie. inadequate tightening so it had looked OK on mechanics visual inspection
 
When I first looked at it, i thought they had used the wrong part as it looked too long. With the car wheels on the ground, i'm pretty sure the upper threaded section should be perpendicular to the hole it's going through, but it's not, it's going through the ARB at an angle because it looks like the link is sitting too high?

Is it definitely the right part?
 
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jpaul said:
(for my education) Do you mean the thread should be visible , between nut and roll bar ? or just that a washer should be filling the gap ?

has the nut just walked/vibrated its way undone, ie. inadequate tightening so it had looked OK on mechanics visual inspection
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No thread should be visible at all between the joint of the drop link / rubber boot and the final nut the other side of the ARB. There should be thread the other side of the final nut as it's meant to be done up nice and tight which tends to mean you have a couple of threads visible on the end of the threaded bar.

As for the angle of the threaded bar section, that should always be at 90 degrees to the ARB with no thread visible. It's entirely possible that the previous drop link knackered the ARB which has resulted in this issue but the drop link should have been supplied with a new nut and they shouldn't have reused the old one. It's also possible that the ARB isn't sitting quite in the correct position, making it look like the link is the wrong length and causing the angle, or it's in the correct position but unable to flex again, causing the angle you see on the link.

Given how rusty the underside of that car is, it's entirely possible that the ARB and it's bushes are fused into position, causing it to be unable to flex properly.
 
If you haven't then you need to asap. If that is left as it is you will need it replaced again and most likely the anti roll bar as well as with the link being that loose the hole in the arb will elongate over time.
 
Ian_Eb said:
That doesn't look right to me. I think it is part of the anti-roll bar and it should be tight rather than having the thread visible.
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I’m more concerned about the nut/six sided shaped thing by the dust boot, it should be on the other side of the arb securing the link to the arb. If it’s ment to be there then I have never seen one like that makes removing easy and saves having to go Poundland for molegrips
 
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