Does wd40 and the like penetrate bolts

@Freakbro I think I see.

So you have that outer section with 4 threaded studs that are a fixed part of it?

You then have a glass screen which is I'm guessing held in place by a metal plate fastened to the studs with small nuts?

Yep. I've rang Esse on the off chance those studs were a serviceable part (if one sheared) but they didn't ring me back, going to chase them up but I don't think they are.
 
Yep. I've rang Esse on the off chance those studs were a serviceable part (if one sheared) but they didn't ring me back, going to chase them up but I don't think they are.

I know this might be daft but have you checked for a left-hand thread?
 
I know this might be daft but have you checked for a left-hand thread?

No, not daft, my old man said the same and we tried that (I would never have thought of it :p)

The fire must be 6 years old at least, that's a lot of time for those bolts to rust on, especially being exposed to the fire.

I think heat is the option, the old man was on about cutting the nuts off with his mini dremel
 
No, not daft, my old man said the same and we tried that (I would never have thought of it :p)

The fire must be 6 years old at least, that's a lot of time for those bolts to rust on, especially being exposed to the fire.

I think heat is the option, the old man was on about cutting the nuts off with his mini dremel

The thing is they could have fused from the heat. Can give it a try with some though but be wary of overheating the glass and having it crack. Saying that it's designed as a fire so should be good.
 
The thing is they could have fused from the heat. Can give it a try with some though but be wary of overheating the glass and having it crack. Saying that it's designed as a fire so should be good.

Well, that's why I need to undo them, the glass has two big cracks in it! :)

It's made an hourglass shape with the two cracks, looks definitely that it's cracked from the pressure points of bolt to bolt, top to bottom. And since the studs look part of the door manufacture, that's why I'm worried about shearing them.
 
Well, that's why I need to undo them, the glass has two big cracks in it! :)

It's made an hourglass shape with the two cracks, looks definitely that it's cracked from the pressure points of bolt to bolt, top to bottom. And since the studs look part of the door manufacture, that's why I'm worried about shearing them.

Lol. Fair enough. In that case - Flame on!
 
Well, that's why I need to undo them
six years use does not seem long, given likely purchase price, so I think I would even be litigious about it ,with the company... I'll ship you the door you sort it.
obviously doesn't appear to be an enamelled over countersunk bolt on room facing door surface ..maybe esse will tell you
 
One of the very few things I have in common with you @Freakbro is that I own the same Esse 350 inset burner ;)
I changed my glass around 18 months ago, fire is of a similar age as yours and the nuts were little more than finger tight. As they're only small 8mm nuts I'd just run down one side with a junior hacksaw which will release the tension holding them.
Even if you accidentally damage the threads on the stud there's enough spare thread to pack out with a few small flat washers under the new nut.
 
Don't suppose you've got access to an impact wrench have you?

Bit of heat + impact wrench on the lowest setting (just to get the hammer effect) should do it? You obvs don't want to put much torque at all through an 8mm nut but the vibration from hammer effect will help a lot. I've released loads of heavily rusted 8mm trim screws on the car using this method, when using normal hand tools would have seen it shear
 
One of the very few things I have in common with you @Freakbro is that I own the same Esse 350 inset burner ;)

:D It's a good stove isn't it and good looking too

I changed my glass around 18 months ago, fire is of a similar age as yours and the nuts were little more than finger tight. As they're only small 8mm nuts I'd just run down one side with a junior hacksaw which will release the tension holding them.
Even if you accidentally damage the threads on the stud there's enough spare thread to pack out with a few small flat washers under the new nut.

Thanks for the advice :)

Don't suppose you've got access to an impact wrench have you?

Bit of heat impact wrench on the lowest setting (just to get the hammer effect) should do it? You obvs don't want to put much torque at all through an 8mm nut but the hammer effect will help a lot

I'll ask around if anyone I know has one.
 
Don't suppose you've got access to an impact wrench have you?

Bit of heat impact wrench on the lowest setting (just to get the hammer effect) should do it? You obvs don't want to put much torque at all through an 8mm nut but the hammer effect will help a lot

And rinse and repeat.

If it doesn't work the first time. Heat up and try again.

Eventually you will get there.

Just dont force the issue and break something.
 
Bolts that are rusted in over years that won't budge, does spraying something like wd40 actually penetrate into the thread and if so how, surely it's an air tight seal, if not water would get in?

If not any tips to remove rusted, or stuck bolts?
In the end head usually snaps off and you end up drilling it out. Been there at lest 4 times last year.
 
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