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Underclocking An Overclocked Gigabyte 2070 S?!

I have an unusual requirement here.
I need a card with a big cooler to sit in a room that is above normal temperatures.

I was looking at a Gigabyte 2070 Super Gaming and the Aorus 2070 Super. Now the Aorus runs hotter than the Gaming so it may seem mad that I am even considering it, but since it has a much bigger cooler and fans I assume that's just because it's overclocked. Obviously I can change the fan curves but the biggest gain should be if I can clock the Aorus at the same clock as the Gaming. Gigabyte software usually offers the option to run the card in several overclock modes so I was thinking if I select one of those modes then it "should" run cooler than the Gaming. Problem is that I don't know for sure. I also don't know whether this is strictly true with Gigabyte cards that selecting a different mode will in fact reduce the temperature. Is it possible for example they are running it at a higher voltage consequently it's impossible to actually reduce the heat as much as I would like? I have no idea how this works. Can anyone shed any light on this? I have never attempted to underclock a graphics card so have no idea, lol.

I would go for the Gaming as it has one of the best coolers in the business.

The Supers do run quite a tad hotter than the non-supers, even at default.

In terms of heat reduction personally, I would create a custom profile for the card to be applied automatically everytime the PC boots into windows and drop the core clock speed by 50mhz by setting -50 in afterburner or evga precision X1.
 
What's the room temp and what's the case temp?

Well I think people are saying it doesn't much matter. All I am trying to do now is to work out why the Aorus idle temps is so much higher than the Gaming idle temp. I mean to be honest I have almost made my mind up not to bother with the Aorus. It's a lot of money to spend when I still feel somewhat uncertain why it is reaching such high idle temperatures.

The PC is in a small alcove next to a heat-soak room that runs at 48 Degrees C. The temperature is relatively normal until someone opens the door!

I am somewhat concerned about the Aorus simply because it has such a high idle temp.The official idle temp I think is 45 degrees but I have seen reports of it reaching 55 degrees. I am trying to understand how that can be for a card that has superior cooling to the Gaming, when the gaming gets nowhere near that temperature.
 
I would go for the Gaming as it has one of the best coolers in the business.

The Supers do run quite a tad hotter than the non-supers, even at default.

In terms of heat reduction personally, I would create a custom profile for the card to be applied automatically everytime the PC boots into windows and drop the core clock speed by 50mhz by setting -50 in afterburner or evga precision X1.

Currently my thoughts exactly!
 
I am somewhat concerned about the Aorus simply because it has such a high idle temp.The official idle temp I think is 45 degrees but I have seen reports of it reaching 55 degrees. I am trying to understand how that can be for a card that has superior cooling to the Gaming, when the gaming gets nowhere near that temperature.

It will be entirely down to fan speed. Sounds like Aorus' fans might stop at idle.
 
It will be entirely down to fan speed. Sounds like Aorus' fans might stop at idle.

They do. But they stop with the Gaming too. So I am at a loss to explain the large idle temperature difference. The Aorus heatink is much bigger so in theory even with the fan stopped it should be at least a little better than the Gaming, but it isn't. There has to be something that gigabyte are doing differently for the Aorus but I am baffled as to what. Anyway, it's too late now, I have ordered the Gaming. When it comes down to it I really don't want to find later on that I have wasted my money on something I can't tweak. Thanks to all the help here I understand overclocking a bit better now but really I still don't understand what Gigabyte have done to up the idle temperatures so much, so my confidence in trying to sort the issue out is, well, not very high.
 
Serious, look at GPU boost 3.0, the stated boost clocks on these cards mean nothing, there more the bottom limit of what the card will hit. The card handles itself based on temperature and power limits. the stated OC/boost clocks are BS, they boost on their own to max performance and efficiency.

https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/5g9jo9/gpu_boost_30_how_it_works/

Yep. My Zotac has clocks of 1665 or something at stock but it boosts to >2000 all the time when gaming, without tweaking any settings.

You can reduce the temp limit and it’ll reduce boost clocks. I tried it out of curiosity one hot evening but soon turned it back up. :p
 
They do. But they stop with the Gaming too. So I am at a loss to explain the large idle temperature difference. The Aorus heatink is much bigger so in theory even with the fan stopped it should be at least a little better than the Gaming, but it isn't. There has to be something that gigabyte are doing differently for the Aorus but I am baffled as to what. Anyway, it's too late now, I have ordered the Gaming. When it comes down to it I really don't want to find later on that I have wasted my money on something I can't tweak. Thanks to all the help here I understand overclocking a bit better now but really I still don't understand what Gigabyte have done to up the idle temperatures so much, so my confidence in trying to sort the issue out is, well, not very high.

Just got the Gaming OC, and have you noticed the fans keep spinning up and down - in windows, or just browsing the web?
It's hell of annoying this pumping sound on/off. The only way seems to set the fan speed to On by yearself!
 
Assuming you actually want to keep temperatures low rather than protect the card (The card can look after itself)...

This is is a tricky one but these facts should help:

Firstly GPU Boost 3.0 has a TARGET temperature. It will increase boost clocks until either instability is reached, or this temperature is reached. So you need to find a way to turn down the target temperature as low as possible. Yes this involves MSI Afterburner or similar.

Basically, there are then voltage, power and temperature LIMITS. GPU Boost 3.0 will push them all up until they're reached. This is designed to boost performance for the user so I doubt it can be disabled! However if you turn these things down, and underclock the card's base clock, it should lower the entire operating range.

You're just gonna have to experiment but I will say again: it depends what your goal is. Bigger coolers aren't designed for cards that are clocked higher/have higher voltage. It's the opposite: bigger coolers make for cooler cards, which then have more HEADROOM to boost the clock, voltage, power for performance. A bigger cooler will still allow a cooler card, all other variables being the same.

Quiet mode will be a fan-stop profile. Switch that off and set a minimum fan speed of 30% to stop idle temperatures climbing.
 
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