Fixing a 20kg TV to a metal stud dry wall

E-Z_Mini_Light_Duty_Drywall_Anchor_Zinc_7eb5b4d9-74d9-4444-89a7-5be4234798ce_1200x1200.jpg

Metal. And is the worst thing I ever came across.
A wire nail have bigger chances to hold something than this.
Go for the plastic stuff, follow the instructions and don't worry about.
 
I think the recommend one should be good, but at least for me, I never had much clearance for them. Maybe another house would be, but the space required for the plastic ones is minimal, installation is simple, and if 6 of them can hold my weight, I'm sure they'll hold any TV available.
 
Michael Marini said:
I think the recommend one should be good, but at least for me, I never had much clearance for them. Maybe another house would be, but the space required for the plastic ones is minimal, installation is simple, and if 6 of them can hold my weight, I'm sure they'll hold any TV available.
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Why don't you have clearance?
If dot and dab then core fix the first one I suggested is best

Just seen above yes core fix for you better than overpriced plastic
 
Michael Marini said:
Solid wall. Gap is about 5mm maximum. I guess even less. Was just enough for the wings to open.
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It's a relatively new building, so don't expect the generous space between solid walls and drywall. The best was my previous house. Old solid walls. A joy to hang TV, shelves, etc.
 
Michael Marini said:
It's a relatively new building, so don't expect the generous space between solid walls and drywall. The best was my previous house. Old solid walls. A joy to hang TV, shelves, etc.
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The other issue I have with grip its is if you want to remove it later you have massive holes to deal with. Vs tiny holes of the better alternatives
 
Psycho Sonny said:
The other issue I have with grip its is if you want to remove it later you have massive holes to deal with. Vs tiny holes of the better alternatives
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That's an issue, sure, but I'm quite sure I won't remove them any time soon. I wouldn't use then on a rental house, though. It's more of a permanent thing, or very long term thing.
 
Psycho Sonny said:
I see you have managed to come up with a valid argument why that video is not right (roll eyes)
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Because I can't be bothered. In short:

1. You've found a video to prove your point. Congrats. You can find a video to prove any point.
2. Once again, and as has followed my post, none of the alternatives allow for minimal/zero rear clearance.
3. You're using plastic as some flipant negative despite it being no less tasked for the job. In fact the holding wings of Gripits are metal, only the bores are plastic and I'd like to see you somehow break one of those once it's buried in plasterboard.
4. I literally came into this thread from another (the lawn one) where your reply was removed and someone else had advised to ignore you.... so, yeah.

Your point about the holes they need is about the only valid one but it's not like anyone's suggesting they're used to hang pictures (and totally irrelevant to the OP; likeliehood is even the owners after him will have the TV wall mounted in the same placr).
 
Cost isn't a valid point?

They are far more expensive than the alternatives and for no other reason than dragons den.

Marketing.

Also he has options it's not like nobody wall hung heavy stuff before grip its.
 
Michael Marini said:
E-Z_Mini_Light_Duty_Drywall_Anchor_Zinc_7eb5b4d9-74d9-4444-89a7-5be4234798ce_1200x1200.jpg

Metal. And is the worst thing I ever came across.
A wire nail have bigger chances to hold something than this.
Go for the plastic stuff, follow the instructions and don't worry about.
Click to expand...

These things are only good for anything that doesn't weigh much.
I used to fix cash boxes to walls and I think I have fixed them to just about any type of wall. If it was plasterboard with a wall behind then I drilled into the wall and put long screws though with spacers - Breeze block we used the resin bolt's. I had a renter for 18 months and to fix my gun cabinet I marked where it had to go then drilled three 2" holes vertically then squeeze gunned liquid dab into the holes to make it solid behind plasterboard then drilled into the wall.- When I left just filled the holes and sanded and painted.

From how I have read the OPs post he has a stud made of metal frame. For me I would put a board on first and try to screw it to the metal frame. Then drill though and use squeeze up's - I have been out of this for 20 yrs so I have no idea what has come on the market.
The best in my day for fixing to solid wall was a rubber wall plug similar to a rawl bolt but needed a 10mm + hole and just wound up the bolt head with socket and brace to squeeze the rubber sleeve up - the low life never got them off unlike the rawl bolts which shattered the brick with a jemmy behind it. Those I used were made in Germany and cost a £1 each - Not seen them for years now.
 
for heavy or items that will risk leverage, shield anchors such as https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-...vHuAQzO1CtlQBhWFrF0aAqWcEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

for plasterboard, hollow wall anchors. https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-hollow-wall-anchors-m6-x-52mm-20-pack/68410

The only problem with hollow wall anchors is that they are not removable easily, but they are really good at what they do. No good fixings are easy to remove really when your talking plasterboard.

Source, I used to work with a guy whos job it was to spec specialised fixings to the trade and these were the first go to as gold standard (not the make but the type, he would always say fisher were the best brand)

I also use frame / hammer fixings for heavy items where I prefer to take the pivot point further back as they are longer. So if you have surface damage (or suspect) to plasterboard take it further back, no fixing is stronger than its contact point with the plasterboard, if thats damaged and you connect to it, thats your weak point.

The worst fixings are the screw in things linked above. They make a massive hole, dont really sit flush and you have to be ultra precise or you end up damaging the board (see above comment in regards fixing vs board)

There are actually some fairly good wall plugs now that pull up behind the board in a similar way to hollow wall anchors, the benefit being they are more multi purpose, ie they act in different ways depending what material they are used in

If you can go into something solid behind plasterboard its always without fail better to do so. Plasterboard is easily damaged by impact either directly or indirectly eg by over levering a TV wall mount, or bashing into it.
 
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