*** Official Ubiquiti Discussion Thread ***

Chaps

I had to restart my 2 x AP and POE switch over the weekend as my Sky router had a hissing fit, now I can't see the unifi units on my iPad IOS app? Even if it scans the network, do I need to add the switch IP address to force it to see the network

I need to get a V1 Cloud Key once I find one on the MM
 
Hi guys

Need your help again please. Recently setup a Raspberry Pi controller / NanoHD / AP Lite / 8 POE switch which is working perfectly at my house.

My sister recently moved into her recently refurbished house and the WiFi is a nightmare. Sky is the ISP with a wired speed of 42 Mbps on a 80/20 line. Guaranteed is 51 Mbps. Major problem is a large WiFi blind spot in two of the bedrooms upstairs. Master socket is in the study at the front of the house (4 large bedroom detached) and currently using an ASUS RT3200.

Each bedroom upstairs has an Ethernet cable running to it (Cat6). So obviously I just want a Unifi setup for the house with a couple of APs...question is which product is best suited for connecting to the wired Ethernet upstairs to provide WiFi.

What would you guys recommend?
 
Given it sounds like you are dealing with ‘normal’ people I doubt they care about having anything hard wired or full speed wireless in every corner of the house. You only really need to get to 50-60 mbps to cover the internet connection.

If you have existing CAT6 infrastructure in place you may not need to get any additional access points if there is a socket in a more central location. You could use a couple of patch leads and adaptors to extend the master socket to a more suitable location and just use the existing router. It’s not the most effective use of the CAT6 but normal people just don’t care. Most normal people see little value in this sort of thing and care more about the cost than having the best available, as long as it’s adequate. I would try this first and see if it worked, it would only be a few £ outlay and could solve the problem. It will also remove the need for a more complex set up which you’ll no doubt have to support.

Personally I would get the nanoHD but it’s likely overkill for what’s needed. An LR would likely be more than adequate.

Likewise the same for any access point, if you can get it into a central location, you’ll likely only need one. One of the best places is the ceiling in the upstairs landing (like a smoke detector), you’ll likely get good while home coverage there. If one doesn’t cover it, get a second and move them to one each side of the house.
 
Look for a location that minimises the number of walls between users and access point. Ideally, you don’t want to cross more than 1 floor and 1 wall. If you have you have to cross a floor and 2 walls then you will likely need 2 access points.

If you have CAT6 RJ45 connectors in the walls already then consider swapping 1 or more of them for the UniFi AP-AC-IW or the Pro or HD version of that. Yes, you need more of them, but they’re super-simple to fit if you have wires in the walls already and you get 2-4 RJ45s on the access point, which may or may not be an improvement depending on how many cables are present already.

If you are going ceiling mounted and cost isn’t a factor, go with the AP-AC-HDNano or AP-AC-LR if cost is a factor. The Pro is usually pointless now the Nano is available for roughly the same money. The non- Nano AP-AC-HD is a better Access Point, but stupidly expensive new.
 
WJA96 said:
Look for a location that minimises the number of walls between users and access point. Ideally, you don’t want to cross more than 1 floor and 1 wall. If you have you have to cross a floor and 2 walls then you will likely need 2 access points.

If you have CAT6 RJ45 connectors in the walls already then consider swapping 1 or more of them for the UniFi AP-AC-IW or the Pro or HD version of that. Yes, you need more of them, but they’re super-simple to fit if you have wires in the walls already and you get 2-4 RJ45s on the access point, which may or may not be an improvement depending on how many cables are present already.

If you are going ceiling mounted and cost isn’t a factor, go with the AP-AC-HDNano or AP-AC-LR if cost is a factor. The Pro is usually pointless now the Nano is available for roughly the same money. The non- Nano AP-AC-HD is a better Access Point, but stupidly expensive new.
Click to expand...

This is part of the problem...as it’s an extension to an extension there are two outside walls within the house now...no doubt killing the WiFi.
 
Been using an Edgerouter 3 for a while now. Rock solid. Which means boredom and itchy plan for a new project lol.

So grabbed a thin client (aes-ni compatible) from ebay and setup pfsense using a quad port nic card

So far so good. Running vlan and voip off its own interface.

Going to read on some packages I can use. Interested in ids/ips and pfblocker (although I run a pihole so not sure if this will work with it)

Edgerouter now designated as a backup

Does anyone use iperf to test local bandwidth speeds?
 
Hi guys,

just after some opinions, i’ve got 2 ap ac pro’s. One of them is in my hallway next to front door, I’ve a nest hello doorbell that keeps disconnecting and now I can’t connect it again.
How close is too close for the ap to the nest hello doorbell, is it possible it could be too close for a great connection?

cheers
 
No, it’s not possible for it to be ‘too close’ to the point that it would disconnect.

What are the settings on the controller both for the AP and the client?
 
Av8 said:
Hi guys,

just after some opinions, i’ve got 2 ap ac pro’s. One of them is in my hallway next to front door, I’ve a nest hello doorbell that keeps disconnecting and now I can’t connect it again.
How close is too close for the ap to the nest hello doorbell, is it possible it could be too close for a great connection?

cheers
Click to expand...

If you have a look on the nest forums this seems to be a common problem. One thing I very quickly spotted in those threads was turning off meshing helped minimise the disconnections. Meshing is on by default on the most recent controllers so you might try turning that off.
 
WJA96 said:
No, it’s not possible for it to be ‘too close’ to the point that it would disconnect.

What are the settings on the controller both for the AP and the client?
Click to expand...

nest uses 2.4Ghz so I’ve even gone to the lengths of trying disable 5Ghz to see if that helps on the ap at front of house, 5Ghz is left on at rear. I’ve disabled the meshing too.
 
WJA96 said:
If you have a look on the nest forums this seems to be a common problem. One thing I very quickly spotted in those threads was turning off meshing helped minimise the disconnections. Meshing is on by default on the most recent controllers so you might try turning that off.
Click to expand...

funny you should mention that, I’ve looked and it seems a common problem from unifi gear with a recent firmware upgrade.
 
I'm pretty tempted to get another AP myself. One covers my house pretty well but thinking if I put them both at opposite side of the house I might get better coverage into the garden/garage.
 
Gents

If I'm only running the app on my iPad and I want to install a new controller (Gen 1 POE) do I have to hard reset both LR APs + US-8-60W and then adopt them onto the new controller?

One is right in the rafters of my lost and a pain to get to :)

If I have to then thats fine

Cheers
 
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