If it makes you sleep better, we've got ~380 APs in work. Think we've had 3 fail in total, this is over a 4-5 year period. 2 of them failed after a bad firmware update.
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If it makes you sleep better, we've got ~380 APs in work. Think we've had 3 fail in total, this is over a 4-5 year period. 2 of them failed after a bad firmware update.
The light on the injector means very little. I wouldn’t use that injector on anything else just in case it’s main-lining anything from 0-240V straight down the Ethernet cable.
I hear this a lot. It’s just a name. It’s not ‘pro’ equipment.
If I renamed a Golf GTI “Golf Hurracan” it won’t make it a Lamborghini.
It’s just a cheap network access point. And if you don’t think it’s cheap, look at buying something from Cisco that does the same job. It’s very cheap.
Has anyone got the UDM? I am considering getting one to compliment my network around the house...currently running the controller on a RPi and I have 1xACL and 1xNanoHD. I want to take the routing off the VM3 hub, not sure if a UDM is right to go for or a Edgerouter or a non-unifi router.
Any help appreciated.
Any help appreciated.
Surely the Unifi secure gateway is the way to go if you all ready have access points. Just buy a cheap netgear switch or the unifi 8 port one with 4 X POE ports if you want to mange the switch. You can keep using the RPi as the controller. Probably works out cheaper than the UDM.
I had the UDM from the second release of EA units and it’s a perfectly good device if you want a combo unit. The access point is not as good as a ceiling mounted UAP-HD-Nano.
The No. 1 thing to be aware of is that from a routing point of view, a UDM does absolutely nothing that a USG or USG Pro cannot do. The controller is exactly the same and exposes the same functionality to the user, even though the underlying hardware and software is completely different.
What a UDM can do, is run IPS/IDS (Suricata) at up to 900Mbps line speeds. A USG can only handle IPS/IDS up to about 150Mbps and the USG Pro can run IPS/IDS at about 350-450Mbps.
You say you’re using a VM3 so you’re with Virgin. If you want to run IPS/IDS (and I don’t necessarily recommend it) then you need to match your USG or UDM to your line speed. 100Mbps and you can use a USG. 350Mbps and you need the USG Pro and for 500Mbps you need the UDM.
If you don’t want IPS/IDS then a standard USG will handle any Virgin line speed all the way up to Gigabit.
if you can find a cheap USG then that would probably be my suggestion. The UDM is great as a starting point, or if you need an access point where your router lives currently. For anything else, It’s a very expensive all-in-one home router/switch/access point.
Currently have a Meraki MR18 AP but don't want to buy a new 3 year license. This currently covers almost all of the house and some of the garden.
Had considered buying BT Whole Home Mesh but after reading this thread I think Ubiquiti might be the way to go.
Do I just need to buy an AP? Set it up on my PC - I don't need separate hardware to manage it?
Do most people go for the Pro or the Smaller Lite versions? I can buy the Lites for £77 on Amazon so could fit one on each floor for not much more than the pro, but Pro may well cover the house from what I'm reading?
Had considered buying BT Whole Home Mesh but after reading this thread I think Ubiquiti might be the way to go.
Do I just need to buy an AP? Set it up on my PC - I don't need separate hardware to manage it?
Do most people go for the Pro or the Smaller Lite versions? I can buy the Lites for £77 on Amazon so could fit one on each floor for not much more than the pro, but Pro may well cover the house from what I'm reading?
2 x Lites would be much better than a single Pro in my opinion.
And yes, you are correct, you just need a PC or other computer device (raspberry pi etc.) to run the controller software while you configure the Access Point and then you can shut the controller down and the Access Point(s) will continue to function without the controller.
And yes, you are correct, you just need a PC or other computer device (raspberry pi etc.) to run the controller software while you configure the Access Point and then you can shut the controller down and the Access Point(s) will continue to function without the controller.
I went with 2 X Lites 1 upstairs landing & 1 downstairs hallway. This gives great coverage in a 4 bed 1970's semi detached house.
I case you revert to your other idea of only getting one AP the Nano HD is the AP to go for in that price bracket as it's a wave 2 device not the Pro.
Thanks for this, didnt realise this was a thing, had mine on unknowingly..
Hey,
I'm looking for a bit of advice. I currently have an UniFi AP AC Lite mounted on the ceiling and it's plugged directly into my router. It has performed exceptionally well for the last 2+ years, but I now need more coverage on my driveway and the signal is just borderline.
What can I add to my setup to extend the coverage? Is there a Wi-Fi extender I can plug into a socket? I'd really like to avoid installing a switch since I have no use for it at all.
I'm looking for a bit of advice. I currently have an UniFi AP AC Lite mounted on the ceiling and it's plugged directly into my router. It has performed exceptionally well for the last 2+ years, but I now need more coverage on my driveway and the signal is just borderline.
What can I add to my setup to extend the coverage? Is there a Wi-Fi extender I can plug into a socket? I'd really like to avoid installing a switch since I have no use for it at all.
Thanks for the advice. I had no idea that they mesh together.
The UAP-Mesh looks cool, but I'm not keen on the way you mount it. I think the UAP-BeaconHD looks perfect, but I get the impression that it's only available in the US at the moment. The Flex HD could work too (on a table) but it's really expensive at £190 compared to the AP-AC-Lite.
The FlexHD wall-mounts like the UAP-Mesh. The mesh is a very good value access point. For garden coverage, I would always suggest you put the AP outside as any wall significantly reduces the effective range of the access point. My recommended method is to drill a window sill to pass the cable out of then tie-wrap the access point to a drain-pipe as high up as possible. Or, if you have loft access, just pass it through a vent in the soffit.
The house was decorated last year so I'm not keen to drill any more holes. The Flex HD can sit on a table next to a window which is right next to my driveway. The AP AC Lite covers my garden very well, but it's borderline on the driveway. I'll try to hold out for a bit in case the BeaconHD becomes available in the UK.
I'm regretting not getting the AP AC Pro now because I'm sure it would solve my problem. Unfortunately it doesn't share the same mounting bracket as the Lite so I can't just swap it out
I'm regretting not getting the AP AC Pro now because I'm sure it would solve my problem. Unfortunately it doesn't share the same mounting bracket as the Lite so I can't just swap it out
Cheer up! An AP-AC-Pro wouldn’t help. A UAP-HDNano would though. In terms of mounting holes they are all covered up by the Access Point, so drilling one or two more (they’re only held up by two or three screws) wont make any mess you can’t clear up with a vacuum cleaner.