with your case its best to have the front fans set to a farily high rpm to overcome the lack of ventalation on the front pannel, yes it will be louder than normal but its the only way to get sufficiant airflow into the case, with regards to no exaust fan simply buy another fan to replace the other one that way you have positive airflow through your case
3600 idling around 55c, high of 95c in Gears 5
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with your case its best to have the front fans set to a farily high rpm to overcome the lack of ventalation on the front pannel, yes it will be louder than normal but its the only way to get sufficiant airflow into the case, with regards to no exaust fan simply buy another fan to replace the other one that way you have positive airflow through your case
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I'm guessing that's all done in the bios? I'll take a look! I sit far away and its behind the TV as I use it to play games on the couch just as a console basically. so I'm happy to up the sound a bit as currently it's much quieter than my previous system.
depends on your board, most have utilities within windows that will allow on the fly fan control, but you have to download the software first.
failing that you can go into the bios and set fan rpms and temprature targets, if the cpu gets warm then the case fans can rev up to compinsate for the extra heat (eg: cpu temp below 50 degrees fans run below 1000rpm, cpu above 60 degrees fans run above 1750rpm)
failing that you can go into the bios and set fan rpms and temprature targets, if the cpu gets warm then the case fans can rev up to compinsate for the extra heat (eg: cpu temp below 50 degrees fans run below 1000rpm, cpu above 60 degrees fans run above 1750rpm)
Phanteks sorted out the issue with a new mesh front, so clearly the tiny top and bottom vents weren't enough.
I would suggest fans at the top, but realized there isn't space for one.
Sometime ago, using the mentioned Phanteks case, and using the ageing ASUS HD7970 DirectCU, pretty much all the hot air was blown outside the case. After replacing it with the Sapphire Vega 56 Pulse, the issues. Most of the hot air was blown either over the M.2 or the side glass panel.
Replaced with the EVGA RTX 2080, not as bad, but still some hot air inside the case, adding to the problem.
Your options are very limited because of the case.
I would suggest, before considering another case, if there's any filter at the front (top and bottom, like the ones at the Phanteks), remove them. You can always now and them blow some air and clean the parts.
Also, as mentioned before, remove the PCI blanking plates.
Your case supports 2x120 fans at the front, 1x120 fan at the back.
Some relatively inexpensive static pressure fan may help, such as:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/arctic-cooling-p12-pwm-pst-black-fan-120mm-fg-04h-ar.html
Plenty of options around, but much more expensive.
I would suggest fans at the top, but realized there isn't space for one.
Sometime ago, using the mentioned Phanteks case, and using the ageing ASUS HD7970 DirectCU, pretty much all the hot air was blown outside the case. After replacing it with the Sapphire Vega 56 Pulse, the issues. Most of the hot air was blown either over the M.2 or the side glass panel.
Replaced with the EVGA RTX 2080, not as bad, but still some hot air inside the case, adding to the problem.
Your options are very limited because of the case.
I would suggest, before considering another case, if there's any filter at the front (top and bottom, like the ones at the Phanteks), remove them. You can always now and them blow some air and clean the parts.
Also, as mentioned before, remove the PCI blanking plates.
Your case supports 2x120 fans at the front, 1x120 fan at the back.
Some relatively inexpensive static pressure fan may help, such as:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/arctic-cooling-p12-pwm-pst-black-fan-120mm-fg-04h-ar.html
Plenty of options around, but much more expensive.
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Not tried with side panel off yet 
will do
Just looked in Bios. It has options per fan (CPU/Fan1/2/3) for Smart mode on or off? The case fans are all currently set to DC. CPU to Auto with smart mode on.
I guess I could mess about here and see some better results.
Not a clue if my rear included fan is PWN or not. The one I bought with the Case is, that's in the front. And my temporary old fan for the front is just 3 pin
will doJust looked in Bios. It has options per fan (CPU/Fan1/2/3) for Smart mode on or off? The case fans are all currently set to DC. CPU to Auto with smart mode on.
I guess I could mess about here and see some better results.
Not a clue if my rear included fan is PWN or not. The one I bought with the Case is, that's in the front. And my temporary old fan for the front is just 3 pin
Not tried with side panel off yet
Just looked in Bios. It has options per fan (CPU/Fan1/2/3) for Smart mode on or off? The case fans are all currently set to DC. CPU to Auto with smart mode on.
I guess I could mess about here and see some better results.
Not a clue if my rear included fan is PWN or not. The one I bought with the Case is, that's in the front. And my temporary old fan for the front is just 3 pin
3 pin fans will have some control but not as extensive as 4 pin pwm models, you can try smart mode to see what they do, but for dc mode the fans will run at a set rpm no matter the load of the pc, again its best to switch all case fans to 4pin that way you can select pwm from dc and gain more control over the fan rpm's and set temp targets to
Have you tested temps with the side of the case off?, this will give you a good idea about airflow in the case as in if temps are a lot different.
I personally would keep the rear fan as it is as you want to be moving hot air out of the case.
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Yeah I dont like the idea of having them all as intake. I'll leave the rear as is
Not tried with the side off yet.
I bet messing with these settings will improve things. I've noticed when just idle in windows, and with core temp on, I hear the cpu kick in, and drop off, kick in and drop off at random but fairly often when idle. Looks like core temp holds 45c then spikes up to 55-60 and back down again. Wonder what causes there random jumps? Probably just the way these cpus work?
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The 3600 cooler isnt great, and it is really very common to have 40 to 50 idle with the 3600 and supplied cooler.
The quickest way to find out how much of the excess you are seeing is to do with the case is to remove the side panel first.
For reference I have the 3700x with supplied (much better cooler) in a very good airflow case (so good temps actually go up when side panel is removed) idling at 33 to 40.
The quickest way to find out how much of the excess you are seeing is to do with the case is to remove the side panel first.
For reference I have the 3700x with supplied (much better cooler) in a very good airflow case (so good temps actually go up when side panel is removed) idling at 33 to 40.
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All cases are nearly the same now, squarish block with front fully covered and 120mm (140mm if you are lucky) fans starved of airflow and glass side panel (most important part today due to many having RGB.
I kept my Phantom 630 for this very reason and would not have any of the modern cases and hope for the return of 200mm fan/cases.
I kept my Phantom 630 for this very reason and would not have any of the modern cases and hope for the return of 200mm fan/cases.
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Yeah its silly really. Tbh I dont even see my case as its behind the TV.
I messed with the bios fan settings and can actually hear them working harder now (not loud, happy with the sound levels in general).
Temps diet seem to be greatly improved but its probably getting that hot air out faster.
I think I need to redo the thermal paste first and gi from there.
Will try panel off tonight too
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While there is a glut of the type of case you describe, there are also lots of cases that arent, you just have to seperate the wheat from the chaff.
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Did you not see the part in bold???
It was not a blanket statement!
Go and look at OCUK store the cases are the new one look design (and I do not see his posts and do not want to btw) I think you are the one greatly exaggerating.
It was not a blanket statement!
Go and look at OCUK store the cases are the new one look design (and I do not see his posts and do not want to btw) I think you are the one greatly exaggerating.
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^^ in the same manner one could say that nearly all PC cases have been the same since forever, squarish boxes. But there are still loads that have great airflow.
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Might reseat the cooler with some aftermarket paste or even grab the Wraith Max cooler mentioned on the previous page.
What paste do I need and what do I do to remove the current pre applied stuff? Only been on a week or so. Hopefully easy to remove.
What paste do I need and what do I do to remove the current pre applied stuff? Only been on a week or so. Hopefully easy to remove.
90+% isopropyl alchohol and preferably a lint-free cloth of some sort, though kitchen towels that don't drop much fluff can be fine. Instead of the alcohol, you could get some Arctic cleaning materials for the long term which works really well:
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Should be easy to remove. First wipe off whatever you can after the PC has been on so the paste is warm. Then apply the alcohol or Arctic material remover liquid, give it 30 seconds to loosen the stuff, then wipe. Repeat as needed. If you use the Arctic liquid, then you finish off with the purifier bottle.
For safety before doing this or whenever working with anything inside the case, always switch off the PSU, then hold the PC's start button down for 10 seconds to drain all power from the motherboard. Then unplug the PSU.
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £11.61 (includes shipping: £4.66)
Should be easy to remove. First wipe off whatever you can after the PC has been on so the paste is warm. Then apply the alcohol or Arctic material remover liquid, give it 30 seconds to loosen the stuff, then wipe. Repeat as needed. If you use the Arctic liquid, then you finish off with the purifier bottle.
For safety before doing this or whenever working with anything inside the case, always switch off the PSU, then hold the PC's start button down for 10 seconds to drain all power from the motherboard. Then unplug the PSU.
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90+% isopropyl alchohol and preferably a lint-free cloth of some sort, though kitchen towels that don't drop much fluff can be fine. Instead of the alcohol, you could get some Arctic cleaning materials for the long term which works really well:
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £11.61 (includes shipping: £4.66)
Should be easy to remove. First wipe off whatever you can after the PC has been on so the paste is warm. Then apply the alcohol or Arctic material remover liquid, give it 30 seconds to loosen the stuff, then wipe. Repeat as needed. If you use the Arctic liquid, then you finish off with the purifier bottle.
For safety before doing this or whenever working with anything inside the case, always switch off the PSU, then hold the PC's start button down for 10 seconds to drain all power from the motherboard. Then unplug the PSU.
Excellent thanks! Any preference as to what paste to use?
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You definitely need to just let it run with the panels open first, and ideally somewhere out in the open etc. It removes any airflow restriction from the equation to see how much of a problem is purely with the CPU/cooler contact. If you see see huge drops at idle then its likely airflow. If its still pretty high, then likley contact.
Paste wise I dont really think theres that much difference between then, only small amounts, from my experience of a few brands. Prob best value will be MX4, but if you want to spend more then things like Kryonaut and Gelid Extreme might be better.
But I would totally be trying an open air run for a bit to see what the deal is.
EDIT - also worth just leaving taskmanager open to see if you have something constantly requesting CPU usage, based upon what you say on fluctuating fans on idle. And just noting things down like usage percentage over time on idle. You seem to have high peak temps too, so my money is on the seating of the cooler, but that fluctuating idle would bother me.
Paste wise I dont really think theres that much difference between then, only small amounts, from my experience of a few brands. Prob best value will be MX4, but if you want to spend more then things like Kryonaut and Gelid Extreme might be better.
But I would totally be trying an open air run for a bit to see what the deal is.
EDIT - also worth just leaving taskmanager open to see if you have something constantly requesting CPU usage, based upon what you say on fluctuating fans on idle. And just noting things down like usage percentage over time on idle. You seem to have high peak temps too, so my money is on the seating of the cooler, but that fluctuating idle would bother me.