*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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I think I have neglected mine for so long the wheels are going to be a nightmare to clean.
So in preparation I ordered some Valetpro Blue Gel cleaner.
It looks properly baked on.

Oh and anyone know what pressure washer nozzle will be safe to use, obviously 0 degree is a no no. But what about 15, 25, 40? 150bar.
 
Ended up ordering a new hose and gun from Directhoses, doesn't fit.
Yayyyy.
Whilst it is the correct fitting, the collar on the brass fitting is mm bigger than the karcher one it is going to replace, so I need to speak to them and see what they recommend instead of just going at it with a file or something.
 
Aye me too, I have been able to speak with them a couple of times when I've tried to ring. I would imagine first port of call will be modifying the fitting collar as it's not used to seal afaik, but we'll see!
 
So guys new car needs a wax it’s Audi ScubaBlue .

Just purchased some Auto Glynn High def Wax .

Before I apply it what’s the best process before hand . What the best detergent to wash it with ect ?

Would you Clay Bar it before hand . Paint is very good car is only three years old 20,000 miles .
 
robj20 said:
I think I have neglected mine for so long the wheels are going to be a nightmare to clean.
So in preparation I ordered some Valetpro Blue Gel cleaner.
It looks properly baked on.

Oh and anyone know what pressure washer nozzle will be safe to use, obviously 0 degree is a no no. But what about 15, 25, 40? 150bar.
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40' is the go-to. Ive been running 25' on a 120bar one without issue though. Really does depend on ones paint, if you have iffy-repairs or lots of stone chips then 150bar and 25' can result in paint being lifted.

Bald-Eagle22 said:
So guys new car needs a wax it’s Audi ScubaBlue . Just purchased some Auto Glynn High def Wax . Before I apply it what’s the best process before hand . What the best detergent to wash it with ect ? Would you Clay Bar it before hand . Paint is very good car is only three years old 20,000 miles .
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Any APC as a prewash, then just get it clean. I'd personally clay it, but you can easily do some tests to see if it needs claying.
 
Can anyone recommend me a good and easy to apply ceramic sealant please?

I was thinking of using wax after a polish but I have heard ceramic sealant can last a lot longer.
 
I have recently used Gyeon Cancoat. Very easy to apply and there is easily enough to do 2 full coats.
I would only expect 6-9 months from that though, you have to spend a bit more and have a more in depth application process to get 12months-years of protection. So in some sense a good wax will be far more cost effective and perhaps only need reapplication every few months.
 
Muska said:
I have recently used Gyeon Cancoat. Very easy to apply and there is easily enough to do 2 full coats.
I would only expect 6-9 months from that though, you have to spend a bit more and have a more in depth application process to get 12months-years of protection. So in some sense a good wax will be far more cost effective and perhaps only need reapplication every few months.
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Thanks will check it out, with wax can you re-apply after 2-3 months without polishing again?
 
I need new microfibres, a better drying towel & a wheel cleaner for diamond cut wheels. Can anyone suggest some products for me please?

Also I could do with a good solution for streak free windows. I'm really struggling, especially with the windscreen. It's possibly due to using old microfibres that haven't been washed though
 
beachBOYken said:
In regards to re-applying wax or even ceramic sealant for that matter, when it may be needed, I gather polishing is only required if paintwork is poor state then, I gather a clay bar is good to do beforehand though.
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it's a little more complicated than that.

Think of Wax or a Ceramic coating as your protective layer on top of nice clean paint, free from any contaminants. A clay bar will help remove some of those contaminants, such as tar, fallout or iron. They can make quite a surprising difference to paint clarity if you've never used one before, depending on the age of your car but be aware that depending on the clay you use, or the lubrication required, you could introduce some marring into your paint that would need to be machine polished out.

Detailing World is a great forum if you want to see how deep the rabbit hole goes :)
 
beachBOYken said:
In regards to re-applying wax or even ceramic sealant for that matter, when it may be needed, I gather polishing is only required if paintwork is poor state then, I gather a clay bar is good to do beforehand though.
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If it's just a top up of the wax and the paint still feels smooth to the touch then no need to clay. Just wash as normal and reapply the wax.
 
Cleaned the engine today and now doing the seats :D

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Got myself an S2000, one previous owner, 2008 with 41,000 miles and am just bringing it back to showroom condition.

Did entire engine bay today, now doing the whole interior and treating the seats but they are in superb condition.

Once that is done then into treating the roof and then a full detail to exterior.

Then once it’s warmer the entire underside is going to be treated and sealed as rust is the enemy with an S2000 :)
 
balanceballs said:
Also I could do with a good solution for streak free windows. I'm really struggling, especially with the windscreen. It's possibly due to using old microfibres that haven't been washed though
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Angelwax Vision to clean, and then Angelwax H2GO to seal has been working great for me the past couple of years. Make sure and use a clean cloth - the specific glass cloths are ideal.
 
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