Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
Saying lights are flashing, have you managed to turn on synchroshift by any chance?
You have to close down etube properly or it messes up too.
I'd be plugging it into the pc and doing a connection check.
Tap the button at the lights twice quickly. Solid green and red light is off, one flash is semi synchro(if you shift at the front it changes two gears at the rear) and two flashes is full synchro. (you only use the rear gears and the front shifts at designated gears you set)
Your wireless unit is on the wire that connects the two shifters to junction A so if they are all showing some fault I'd be looking at the front end of the bike.
You have to close down etube properly or it messes up too.
I'd be plugging it into the pc and doing a connection check.
Tap the button at the lights twice quickly. Solid green and red light is off, one flash is semi synchro(if you shift at the front it changes two gears at the rear) and two flashes is full synchro. (you only use the rear gears and the front shifts at designated gears you set)
Your wireless unit is on the wire that connects the two shifters to junction A so if they are all showing some fault I'd be looking at the front end of the bike.
Last edited:
Soldato
Fair enough. I went for it, gently, with some needle nose pliers and they are now both functioning and the mad flashing has stopped on the unit. It seems to respond as I would expect now, two presses and it returns that it's in shifting mode 1. Maybe it's okay now?
I've changed what I had it plugged into to charge and those lights have come on on the charge brick, so I'll leave it to charge for a while, then just try pairing it back up with my Wahoo.
It flashed three times?! (Looks like 'Mode 2' according to the manual) I was previously on full syncro.
It as paired back in to my Wahoo, so at the moment everything seems okay. Panic over!
Thanks all.For the rotor cranks.
You need a cassette tool to remove the threaded piece once you have removed the 8mm bolt that holds the spider side to the crank arm.
Then you put the bolt back in the crank followed by the threaded piece and undo the bolt against it which pulls the spider off for you.
Aside from that, a proper BB removal tool would be recommended and cups to press a new BB in.
The Park Tool one comes with both, you can use a length of threaded stud and some washers/nuts plus the park cups to press a new BB in.
It’s SRAM Yaw so slightly different, not had much trouble before, it is usually pretty quick and straightforward.
I have redone it about 6 times today....
The problem I find, you use the low limit to put it in the big ring and set the high limit screw and FD angle. Then pull cable tight.
When you then release the low limit screw tension from the mech there is always some slack in the cable so it moves inwards slightly and skews the rear of mech a touch.
I seem to have loads of adjustment at the low end, but not a huge amount at the high end, and then to redo it takes a while. Also after shifting up/down several times there’s always a tiny bit more cable slack that appears. I guess an in-line adjuster would help here.
Anyway it appears to be fine, maybe just completely stripping the chain down helped...
I am finally admitting defeat on my wheels, I've got a Cube Attain 2018 which has the Cube RA0.8 Aero rims and these have been plagued with punctures to a degree that every single ride ends with me pushing my bike home. Admittedly I've only been out on the bike around 7 times in the year and a half since I've had it, but truth be told, I dare not venture far on this thing anymore and is becoming worthless to me. I've replaced Tyres, Innertubes, Rim Tape, and people to fix punctures. I've been a cyclist for many years and well aware of how to be pre-cautious when cycling to avoid debris.
After looking into this in further detail, I can see that this is quite a widescale problem and many other owners of these bikes have reported the same problems. I think I may have left this late for any sort of assistance from the shop/manufacturer, so I'm consigned to thinking I may have to part with some cash to get new wheels.... or a new bike if I can persuade the wife.
So out of curiosity, are there any recommendations for wheels... the bike isn't worth a lot, so not looking to spend stupid money, but really looking for the best value for money, something which doesn't cause punctures, and is easy to take tyres on and off... because these rims are RIDICULOUS!
After looking into this in further detail, I can see that this is quite a widescale problem and many other owners of these bikes have reported the same problems. I think I may have left this late for any sort of assistance from the shop/manufacturer, so I'm consigned to thinking I may have to part with some cash to get new wheels.... or a new bike if I can persuade the wife.
So out of curiosity, are there any recommendations for wheels... the bike isn't worth a lot, so not looking to spend stupid money, but really looking for the best value for money, something which doesn't cause punctures, and is easy to take tyres on and off... because these rims are RIDICULOUS!
Soldato
If you are inflating tyres to a suitable weight (for example, I'm ~76Kg and inflate front 28mm to ~75PSI and rear 32mm to ~78PSI on my Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016), my guess is either...
You have a spoke or two poking through the rim tape
You have debris inside the tyre from an old puncture that keeps piercing replacement tubes, such as glass shard embedded in rubber
If re-using tubes, you aren't letting glue cure enough before applying patch (3mins+ IME)
You're travelling on roads littered with puncture debris
A very quick search resulted in finding https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/cube-attain-sl-2018-wheel-issues.244352/ , which suggest sharp edges to the spoke holes and poor rim tape.
Any recommendations for a summer jersey? I have a Castelli Volata which has been great but after 2 years of use, it has become baggy and misshapen. I would replace it like for like but Castelli appear to have stopped making the Volata and can't find any stores with old stock.
if this really is the issue, tubeless rim tape is quite a bit burlier than the regular stuff. Stans tubeless tape is TESA 4289 and you can buy it in "all you'll ever need" quantities on ebay for £notmuch
No spokes poking through, nothing in inside of tyre, was a fresh Specialised inner-tube on this occasion... Cycling along a smooth stretch of road avoiding any drainage covers and that was it, noticed it rapidly losing pressure. I'd checked the spoke holes as I too had seen the comment about sharp edges, and for good measure I gave them a quick sand down to make sure all smooth. I'd then put some of the Muc-Off Tubeless Rim Tape in after hearing good things about it... still resulted in a puncture.
I'm 82kg in weight and running 2 relatively fresh pairs of Continental Gatorskins, these can take around 90 PSI and on yesterdays ride I had them about 85psi.
Soldato
Last year I bought a Casteli sleeveless top, which I love, but it's now a little large for me. I'm finding at the moment it seems quite hard to find sleeveless?
Maybe most cyclists don't have the arms for them or something 
Last year I bought a Casteli sleeveless top, which I love, but it's now a little large for me. I'm finding at the moment it seems quite hard to find sleeveless?
Aha, you're gonna open a can of worms here. Only triathletes wear sleeveless.
Maybe most cyclists don't have the arms for them or something
upper body mass is dead weight when you're on the bike
upper body mass is dead weight when you're on the bike
Only if you're not strong enough to make the chain stays work for a living.
Soldato
How are you fitting inner tubes exactly? They can get pinched if not done right although they usually go bang under first inflation. Not always though.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
This! They also seem to love bandanas too.
Soldato