Road Cycling

As most of you know I suffer cold hands/feet pretty bad, but like to ride outside despite the pain, I picked up some cheap insole warmers last week and a portable usb power pack and went out on Sunday morning, it was 0c average across the ride, but it was revolutionary, my feet were warm throughout with just one pair of socks on compared to my 2-3 i've been riding over the past few months. Best part is that it cost less than £15 total.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001355182213.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1ba14c4dqDhuSI and one of these battery packs

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Fast-Charging-Power-Bank-50000mAh-Ultra-thin-External-Battery-Charger-2-USB/224317284537?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2
Odd question but what shoe/cover set up do you have? As I assume you need to keep all of that dry unless you want some shocks. I use my outdoor walking boots with my outdoor trousers on top of my cycling shorts. It's a terrible combo I know and my feet are soaking if it's a wet day :p

As mentioned, the chainring and cassette look good. Just very 'dry'!

The rust you're seeing is mostly due to that, but also it being put away damp (impossible not to this time of year, especially if storing outside or putting away after cleaning without fully drying & lubing). The increased amount of salt on the roads just makes things rust very very quickly. You'll see it with the disks on your car too if it's stood for a few days. But in your case it's that really light 'dusty' colour. It's very light surface dust due to the surfaces being 'dry' from salt water washing away the lube (or not enough being there), then it kinda dries out and rusts. It'll sound extra squeaky when ridden as it's so dry. A good scrub with a chain cleaner, or even a good hard rub with a rag and some GT85 will clear that right off, then lube it up.

Cassettes can be tricky. It's very hard to tell 'by eye' if you're spreading the gears you're using that they're worn. That's why a chain checker is a sound investment - if you're looking at doing your own maintenance. If you're not looking to do your own maintenance then be prepared for your halfords/LBS to recommend you a new chain and cassette every year or so whenever they see it (it's not in their best interest for you to get maximum wear out of your components)...

I'm probably a bad one for this (as I probably don't change cassettes as frequently as I should, so I get through lots of chains), but I judge it by when usually the shifting gets a little 'grindy', or skips if you can't see any defined wear on the most used parts of the cassette. What I tend to look for are the corners on the cogs themselves in these heavy traffic areas of the cassette (where riding & changing more). So on a hybrid like yours, (mostly ridden on the road?), that would be the upper end of the cassette.

Thank you, some really useful info there. Will get some GT85 and look into a chain cleaner (been using two nail brushes). My gut feeling is saying, it's probably fine for now and I will do a better job in maintaining it - then a new cassette/chain maybe later in the year/when the situation becomes worse.

Just to confirm the right steps for cleaning; soap and water or Muc-off to clean the bike down, degrease the cassette and chain if needed and then wait for it to dry completely and then put some GT85 on?
 
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Soap and water won't touch it if there's any oil/lube on there already.

Get a good degreaser in a rag and run the chain through it. Let it dry then apply some wet lube (if you're riding at the moment)
 
Odd question but what shoe/cover set up do you have? As I assume you need to keep all of that dry unless you want some shocks. I use my outdoor walking boots with my outdoor trousers on top of my cycling shorts. It's a terrible combo I know and my feet are soaking if it's a wet day :p

Shimano MW5 with generally Rapha Pro Team bib Tights which are water resistant, the little insole cable connector sits under the tongue so stays dry and then cable runs up each leg to my jersey pocket where the usb pack is. I suspect the power they are pulling I wouldn't even feel anything considering I rode into an electric fence last week at the bottom of a descent that I didn't see. :D
 
Shimano MW5 with generally Rapha Pro Team bib Tights which are water resistant, the little insole cable connector sits under the tongue so stays dry and then cable runs up each leg to my jersey pocket where the usb pack is. I suspect the power they are pulling I wouldn't even feel anything considering I rode into an electric fence last week at the bottom of a descent that I didn't see. :D
Jesus £300 for tights and shoes - the bike money pit continues :D. Thanks.

Hope you have recovered from the electric fence :p:p - I remember seeing a friend riding a quad bike into one years ago and it wrapped around his leg a little. We also wet ourselves watching :D.
 
HAs been my main form of getting to work for the past 7 years, so much cheaper than driving :D Well at least that's how I justify spending so much.
 
Ah that old chestnut.

Me saying "well I save about £4 a day in fuel by cycling", so I can justify £200 on some new bib shorts or thermals

I'm sure I eat more that £4 extra a day in the extra fuel I need myself from all the cycling!!
 
Have Mavic stopped selling footwear? Seems to be basically out of stock everywhere.

They were the only shoes I found that fit well. Might have to try Sidi I guess...
Mavic generally winding up lots of things or just vanishing. Still see lots of wheels around but there was a bit of a firesale on them last year if I recall. I thought they'd found a buyer?!

I've never ridden mavics and have Sidi, Giro and Shimano shoes. Unsure what Mavics size like but I find the Shimano narrow, the Sidi very 'snug' (but they do feel like a slipper) and Giro pretty much spot on.

My Sidi Kaos are a little old now, but great comfort and a superb long distance/summer shoe but with the price I've never considered them for cheaper/commuting/replacement shoes. I'm using wide Shimano's as my winter and commuting shoes, quite good ones (R171W) and wide can be a bit floppy unless done up a little tight (can't wear them 'relaxed' enough for a long ride without feeling they move too much), but a great fit with thick socks. Lots of deals on Shimano shoes if buying previous seasons models. Giros I had as my previous cheap commuters (Treble II) I abused and wore out and the new ones (quite good boa Savix) very similar. Both great fits and great shoes for the money, but I did end up with the toes too tight for 3 hours Zwifting on sunday and couldn't feel my toes properly until a couple of hours afterwards. Ooops. But only 3rd time I've worn the Savix so still finding the sweet spot and wearing them in.

Roady, Brian Holm was getting it in the neck for rolling out the hard man rubbish about only riding in shorts and tights were for ballet dancers, throwing shade their way, all the while his website/clothing range includes tights...
Ahhhh, typical opinionated DS then! ;)

As most of you know I suffer cold hands/feet pretty bad, but like to ride outside despite the pain, I picked up some cheap insole warmers last week and a portable usb power pack and went out on Sunday morning, it was 0c average across the ride, but it was revolutionary, my feet were warm throughout with just one pair of socks on compared to my 2-3 i've been riding over the past few months. Best part is that it cost less than £15 total.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001355182213.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1ba14c4dqDhuSI and one of these battery packs

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Fast-Charging-Power-Bank-50000mAh-Ultra-thin-External-Battery-Charger-2-USB/224317284537?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2
Great to hear you've had good results with them. Figuring out some kinda mount to keep the battery pack under the overshoe would be cool, could also have 1 per foot then for some longer burntimes, especially if wearing boots as you wouldn't feel it.

Have 2-3 friends who really suffer. Most already wearing winter boots, with toe warmers under overshoes and multiple pairs of socks. One of them is convinced he needs Spatz like mine but only wearing shoes so trying to get him to go the boots route first.

Thank you, some really useful info there. Will get some GT85 and look into a chain cleaner (been using two nail brushes). My gut feeling is saying, it's probably fine for now and I will do a better job in maintaining it - then a new cassette/chain maybe later in the year/when the situation becomes worse.

Just to confirm the right steps for cleaning; soap and water or Muc-off to clean the bike down, degrease the cassette and chain if needed and then wait for it to dry completely and then put some GT85 on?
I was suggesting to scrub the rusty looking chain with the GT85. It does the trick and is cheap, quick and easy. Basically using a solvent based oil to scrub it with a rag quite hard to fetch the grime off/out (I'm still working my way through babygrows/sleepsuits). That will fetch the rust off the surface with enough elbow grease and also 'wash' out much of the salty grime out of the dry links themselves. I do it quite a bit this time of year as a 'quick clean' when I don't have time to use the chain cleaner and wait for it all to dry, as lets face it at this time of year that can take days (unless you have a compressor/airline). The light oil in the GT85 won't have much staying power, but it will penetrate well into the links. You'll need to use a lube afterwards else things will be squeaky again in 10 minutes of riding.

GCN did a video of cleaning a chain with WD40 and not using a lube. Same technique and idea, but utter garbage to not use a lube afterwards.

I suspect the power they are pulling I wouldn't even feel anything considering I rode into an electric fence last week at the bottom of a descent that I didn't see. :D
Lol! Hope you didn't get caught up too badly and it wasn't on. At least this time of year with wet ground around it should earth easily... The fun I've had with electric fences (farm life), but damn they can kick if your trick goes wrong!

I can remember the mess my cousin got in when his dog got caught in one, then he got hooked up in it trying to get the dog out (as it was biting him!) :o

Me saying "well I save about £4 a day in fuel by cycling", so I can justify £200 on some new bib shorts or thermals
Same!

Although I judge it by the fuel costs the car would use commuting - £15-20 a week. That's also why my 'aim' the last few years has been to do more miles than the car per year. You'd think that would justify me being able to get a summer bike. I was close to it this year and now look what's happened to the prices! :rolleyes:

"honeybunny you know that bike I wanted to get for £3500 that I've saved for, well now it costs £6500, can I still get it?"
 
Great to hear you've had good results with them. Figuring out some kinda mount to keep the battery pack under the overshoe would be cool, could also have 1 per foot then for some longer burntimes, especially if wearing boots as you wouldn't feel it.

Have 2-3 friends who really suffer. Most already wearing winter boots, with toe warmers under overshoes and multiple pairs of socks. One of them is convinced he needs Spatz like mine but only wearing shoes so trying to get him to go the boots route first.


Lol! Hope you didn't get caught up too badly and it wasn't on. At least this time of year with wet ground around it should earth easily... The fun I've had with electric fences (farm life), but damn they can kick if your trick goes wrong!

I can remember the mess my cousin got in when his dog got caught in one, then he got hooked up in it trying to get the dog out (as it was biting him!) :o

Battery is probably a bit big to do that, tbh once the cable was on I didn't notice them. They both go to one usb in cable, so couldn't have them individually powered. Suspect when I'm wearing them I'll be wearing multiple jerseys, so put the battery in the inside jersey pocket. I've found the winter boots help for short periods, Shimanos are definitely better than my northwaves which are going up for sale now, but my feet will just go cold eventually, I've actually realised my feet are sweating too which certainly isn't helping, unfortunately I am a sweaty person so don't think much I can do about that, but I know just wearing normal shoes is 10x worse.

The electric fence was hilarious, just rode straight into it, luckily only one of the weak powered ones to keep cattle in check on the South Downs so no damage done.


Submitted a few rapha repair requests recently, all came straight back, oh we can't repair those, here is a voucher for 25% of the new cost. Eventually get another 15% out of them, but their repairs are pretty much pointless now. Just spending the vouchers I currently have but will definitely not be spending as much as I have done in the past with them.[/QUOTE]
 
I've not posted in here for quite some time. So I hope you're all well and have had some great cycling adventures over the past year or so.

Just come for a bit a bit of a moan really. The wheels on my 'winter' bike blew up, luckily just before a ride as I was about to set off. Not a snapped spoke, but the metal hub flange which held the spoke had sheared off. So a write off. Quite disappointed, but the bike is abused through the salty winter and isn't cleraned nerarly enough so I kinda accepted it. Cue some swapping of wheels and I noticed that the axle on my more expensive Fulcrum Racing Zeroes on my 'summer' steed was a bit stiff, and not spinninng smoothly. I was probably more disappointed with this considering they were about £600 at the time, ceramic bearings, ridden in predominently dry weather and always in the non salty months.

So tonight Ive stripped the hub down, serviced the freehub which seems in good nick and then moved onto the ceramic (non-cartridge) bearings. This is where I noticed that the bearing races were pitted and slightly corroded. One race is a replaceable part, so I could sort that, but the other is the actual hub body and is definitely a big/unviable job. So, regreased and reassembled, the axle spins more freely but you can definitely still feel the pitting.

So overall I am very disappointed. Has anyojne else experienced anything like this? On a bike which is really well looked after? On wheels which are pretty expensive?
 
I've not posted in here for quite some time. So I hope you're all well and have had some great cycling adventures over the past year or so.

Just come for a bit a bit of a moan really. The wheels on my 'winter' bike blew up, luckily just before a ride as I was about to set off. Not a snapped spoke, but the metal hub flange which held the spoke had sheared off. So a write off. Quite disappointed, but the bike is abused through the salty winter and isn't cleraned nerarly enough so I kinda accepted it. Cue some swapping of wheels and I noticed that the axle on my more expensive Fulcrum Racing Zeroes on my 'summer' steed was a bit stiff, and not spinninng smoothly. I was probably more disappointed with this considering they were about £600 at the time, ceramic bearings, ridden in predominently dry weather and always in the non salty months.

So tonight Ive stripped the hub down, serviced the freehub which seems in good nick and then moved onto the ceramic (non-cartridge) bearings. This is where I noticed that the bearing races were pitted and slightly corroded. One race is a replaceable part, so I could sort that, but the other is the actual hub body and is definitely a big/unviable job. So, regreased and reassembled, the axle spins more freely but you can definitely still feel the pitting.

So overall I am very disappointed. Has anyojne else experienced anything like this? On a bike which is really well looked after? On wheels which are pretty expensive?
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Sorry to hear, I had something similar on a set of fulcrum Quattro Carbons, I used them for cross, but they were cleaned up and looked after well, greased a few times and looked after, I left them at the end of the season after a clean up and went back to them a few weeks later and they'd completely seized. Luckily front only, so managed to swap both bearings out and back to normal.
 
#

Sorry to hear, I had something similar on a set of fulcrum Quattro Carbons, I used them for cross, but they were cleaned up and looked after well, greased a few times and looked after, I left them at the end of the season after a clean up and went back to them a few weeks later and they'd completely seized. Luckily front only, so managed to swap both bearings out and back to normal.

Well of course I can sympathise! So frustrating, especially when it was cleaned before storage!

Luckily my front is okay. I can probably souce one of the races to keep them going.

As for the wheels that went bang, do I just chuck them? All the bearings are shot, front and back, the rims are showinng wear. I could probably salvage the freehub body as a spare. Maybe keep some spokes.
 
Shimanos are definitely better than my northwaves which are going up for sale now, but my feet will just go cold eventually, I've actually realised my feet are sweating too which certainly isn't helping, unfortunately I am a sweaty person so don't think much I can do about that, but I know just wearing normal shoes is 10x worse.

The electric fence was hilarious, just rode straight into it, luckily only one of the weak powered ones to keep cattle in check on the South Downs so no damage done.


Submitted a few rapha repair requests recently, all came straight back, oh we can't repair those, here is a voucher for 25% of the new cost. Eventually get another 15% out of them, but their repairs are pretty much pointless now. Just spending the vouchers I currently have but will definitely not be spending as much as I have done in the past with them.
Yeah quite like the look of the Shimano shoes and a friend who's been through a bunch MTB'ing rates the waterproofing of the Shimano ones over the others (I'd originally pointed him towards Northwave like my road ones).

I've not posted in here for quite some time. So I hope you're all well and have had some great cycling adventures over the past year or so.

Just come for a bit a bit of a moan really. The wheels on my 'winter' bike blew up, luckily just before a ride as I was about to set off. Not a snapped spoke, but the metal hub flange which held the spoke had sheared off. So a write off. Quite disappointed, but the bike is abused through the salty winter and isn't cleraned nerarly enough so I kinda accepted it. Cue some swapping of wheels and I noticed that the axle on my more expensive Fulcrum Racing Zeroes on my 'summer' steed was a bit stiff, and not spinninng smoothly. I was probably more disappointed with this considering they were about £600 at the time, ceramic bearings, ridden in predominently dry weather and always in the non salty months.

So tonight Ive stripped the hub down, serviced the freehub which seems in good nick and then moved onto the ceramic (non-cartridge) bearings. This is where I noticed that the bearing races were pitted and slightly corroded. One race is a replaceable part, so I could sort that, but the other is the actual hub body and is definitely a big/unviable job. So, regreased and reassembled, the axle spins more freely but you can definitely still feel the pitting.

So overall I am very disappointed. Has anyojne else experienced anything like this? On a bike which is really well looked after? On wheels which are pretty expensive?
Good to see you 'back' and glad you're still having fun! :D

Gutted about the spoke flange, what wheels are they and not possible to swap out the hub? Or just not worth it...?

Ceramic bearings are one of those things, in cycling we call them ceramic but they're actually a hybrid - ceramic balls in metal races. The metal races corrode in ceramics just as easily as metal so you don't really gain much 'life' from them if they get damp and rust/pit... Only a fully ceramic bearing would give you that and we don't generally see them in cycling. Only real thing I can suggest is rubbing it quite hard with something like isopropyl or a brake cleaner. Degreaser can generally add to rusting unless it's well cleaned out afterwards. Seen it mentioned before (possibly on some skateboard forums?) about being able to polish races with a dremel and 'polishing wheel' if you have one, could be worth a try if it's small enough. Rubbing it with anything more abrasive will just end up making the races loose for the balls. Similar info here.

As for the wheels that went bang, do I just chuck them? All the bearings are shot, front and back, the rims are showinng wear. I could probably salvage the freehub body as a spare. Maybe keep some spokes.
Probably unless you're able to source the same hub S/H and swap it over. But guessing they're rim brake so not much point the expense salvaging the rims unless they've a few years life left in them.

Selling the freehub is a good shout if it's quite tidy. I paid £25 for an old Roval one a few years back for the internals. Just recently bought a Tacx one (for my turbo) for £35. So used freehubs is a thing. Equally I've picked up several 'spare' Zipp ones, new in packets for £20-30 for my main wheels (and to convert one from Campag to Shimano), they're the same as the 303/404/Firestrikes so lots of I guess teams selling them off cheap last autumn. Usual price £85-115!
 
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Anyone store their bikes in a shed? Trying to decide size but, I potentially want something for a handful of bikes, tools, etc and space for a direct drive turbo. Is something 12 by 8 (feet) going to be ample?

The other consideration is I would like to store a 9-10 foot kayak in said shed. Seems a bit small for everything I need to store.
 
Good to see you 'back' and glad you're still having fun! :D

Gutted about the spoke flange, what wheels are they and not possible to swap out the hub? Or just not worth it...?

Ceramic bearings are one of those things, in cycling we call them ceramic but they're actually a hybrid - ceramic balls in metal races. The metal races corrode in ceramics just as easily as metal so you don't really gain much 'life' from them if they get damp and rust/pit... Only a fully ceramic bearing would give you that and we don't generally see them in cycling. Only real thing I can suggest is rubbing it quite hard with something like isopropyl or a brake cleaner. Degreaser can generally add to rusting unless it's well cleaned out afterwards. Seen it mentioned before (possibly on some skateboard forums?) about being able to polish races with a dremel and 'polishing wheel' if you have one, could be worth a try if it's small enough. Rubbing it with anything more abrasive will just end up making the races loose for the balls. Similar info here.

Probably unless you're able to source the same hub S/H and swap it over. But guessing they're rim brake so not much point the expense salvaging the rims unless they've a few years life left in them.

Selling the freehub is a good shout if it's quite tidy. I paid £25 for an old Roval one a few years back for the internals. Just recently bought a Tacx one (for my turbo) for £35. So used freehubs is a thing. Equally I've picked up several 'spare' Zipp ones, new in packets for £20-30 for my main wheels (and to convert one from Campag to Shimano), they're the same as the 303/404/Firestrikes so lots of I guess teams selling them off cheap last autumn. Usual price £85-115!

Oh no, not worth it at all. They were Fulcrum Racing 5s, about £220 around 5 years ago. The rims are showing signs of wear, braking surface worn, stickers falling off etc. But yeah, I think I'll salvage the freehub.

Cheers for the link, I'll give it a read. I'll keep the hub as it is for now I think. But it might be something I revisit when they need attennding to again.
 
Hhhhm my recent issue/should I replace my cassette and chain, got worse :p. Took it out today and the chain was significantly more loose, gears wouldn't engage, and it was skipping others for fun. You could tell the derailleur looked bent/not aligned correctly and there was less tension in the chain. Before I made it any worse, just took it to Decathlon and he sorted it out in 5 minutes. The derailleur was bent and needed adjusting. He also said one of the gear wires looked on its way out, definitely needed more oil and my rear brake pads need replacing. Works much better now, big(ish) ride tomorrow to test it out, and I will look after it better from now on :o:p.
 
Your thoughts on these two bikes

2021 Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 8 DISC eTap

50915789751_b826118f37_b.jpg



Or

2021 Trek Madone SLR 7 Disc eTap

50915920717_ece56bbe04_b.jpg
 
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