Road Cycling

Hey, I currently have a Shimano Tiagra 4700, 50/34, 170 mm length Crank and a Shimano Tiagra HG500, 12-28, 10-speed Cassette.

I'm carrying an extra bit of timber, is there any upgrades here I could do to make my climbing a little easier?

Cheers
 
Retroman09 said:
Hey, I currently have a Shimano Tiagra 4700, 50/34, 170 mm length Crank and a Shimano Tiagra HG500, 12-28, 10-speed Cassette.

I'm carrying an extra bit of timber, is there any upgrades here I could do to make my climbing a little easier?

Cheers
Click to expand...

Yes, get a cassette with a bigger range and bigger largest sprocket such as 11-34.

Yes, it's Amazon, but just over £28 looks a good price https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-CASSETTE-CS-HG500-SPEED-11-34/dp/B00WLFTBT8

You will need to either buy a new chain, or use the existing one if it's not too worn and you have spares links to attach to it http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html

My Cube came with an 11-32, but I'm so glad of the change to 11-34, especially this year as my weight has been fluctuating around 83Kg since around Feb when I got as light as ~73Kg in August 2017 a few months after buying this bike. 34/34 is getting plenty of use on the local ramps currently, but I also prefer the sprocket jumps as it gives me more climbing gears.

11-32: 11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32

11-34: 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html will show you sprocket sizes for a huge range of cassettes.
 
Bloody puncture few miles from home today, changed tube, oh that's got a hole in it too. Call for backup! Lucky as that tube has been in the saddle bag for a while now and could have gone when 30 odd miles from home not 3, but had a delivery in the week so just chucked and replaced. H


Hopefully this weather is here to stay as it's glorious down here now. Off week after next so long as it is dry for then I'll be happy.
 
Bloody chuffin great.....

Aside from a dodgy hamstring for outlaw in 4 weeks time my TT bike is now in urgent need of some TLC after a range rover decided to T bone me... Cue me writing this with a broken nose, the usual scuffs and scrapes from an off and being bored shirtless in A&E at 2am I count myself as only got here at 2130 after the police and ambulance decided to turn up and fill in the paperwork....

****** off beyond belief.

Question is do I use my BTF insurance benefits or take the guys offer of sorting it all out. Never been in this situation before on a push bike.
 
Sorry to hear, go straight to his insurance company,and get them to pay for everything. Don't use your insurance at all. Ive been hit a couple of times, luckily never as bad as you and people are always very apologetic and cooperative until they find out a pair of bib shorts costs 100 quid and new bikes cost multiple thousands of pounds.

If you have police attendance it makes things many many times easier. You'll get a payout in full for everything damaged if you haven't got any major injuries. That'll be the first thing they try to squirm out of is personal injury claim as that can cost them many many times more than a new bike.
 
SPG said:
Bloody chuffin great.....

Aside from a dodgy hamstring for outlaw in 4 weeks time my TT bike is now in urgent need of some TLC after a range rover decided to T bone me... Cue me writing this with a broken nose, the usual scuffs and scrapes from an off and being bored shirtless in A&E at 2am I count myself as only got here at 2130 after the police and ambulance decided to turn up and fill in the paperwork....

****** off beyond belief.

Question is do I use my BTF insurance benefits or take the guys offer of sorting it all out. Never been in this situation before on a push bike.
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Definitely go down the insurance route. As @SoliD says people have no idea what costs are involved and you should be properly sorted out for any damage and injuries.

Taxi driver took my wife out and tried the same, even offered to get the cash out on the day. Final hospital bill was over £25k due to complications with a shoulder injury needing a specialist.
 
Never deal directly with driver unless you have only suffered very minor property damage i.e. less than £250. I'm a solicitor and when, in any type of action, our clients speak to the third parties directly to "try and do a deal” it is almost never to the injured party's advantage. The third party will always try and low ball and if the injured party doesn’t then accept they will try and use whatever correspondence they can to discredit them when it inevitably goes through the proper channels.

If I was in your shoes I’d see how my injuries develop. If you are 100% better within a few weeks then it is generally safe to approach the insurer directly to deal with your property damage. If your injuries continue to be painful then you may want to look at obtaining legal representation. If you are a member of British Cycling, or have home insurance you may benefit from legal cover.
 
SPG said:
Bloody chuffin great.....

Aside from a dodgy hamstring for outlaw in 4 weeks time my TT bike is now in urgent need of some TLC after a range rover decided to T bone me... Cue me writing this with a broken nose, the usual scuffs and scrapes from an off and being bored shirtless in A&E at 2am I count myself as only got here at 2130 after the police and ambulance decided to turn up and fill in the paperwork....

****** off beyond belief.

Question is do I use my BTF insurance benefits or take the guys offer of sorting it all out. Never been in this situation before on a push bike.
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Sorry to hear. It certainly isn't much fun with all the waiting around. Use the drivers insurance, average joe has no idea how much cycling things cost. One nice jersey is probably more then he was thinking the entire claim would cost (I was very concerned when I had my CT scan that they were going to cut off my aero jersey when they were struggling to pull it off!)
 
Hedged my bets this morning, risked my summer bike but balanced out by taking a jacket. Didn't work as it rained obviously.... But not too much, although some of the more minor roads at the bottom of inclines were an absolute mess for gravel, had to have my wits about me. I Had an 80 miler planned, cut a bit short to get to the cafe as wasn't feeling it and did a tad under 75 in the end. Hoping the weather settles at some point.

My random creak appears to have gone away too which is a nice positive.
 
Met my boss after he'd been on the beers with a mate who's starting back.

We've already abandoned ship when the rain came on and got a coffee n mars bars. Cycled another 10 miles to a hotel with a wedding on. 4 pints deep.

Here we ******* gooooooo
 
SoliD said:
although some of the more minor roads at the bottom of inclines were an absolute mess for gravel, had to have my wits about me.
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Always found this with your end of the South Downs. Really have to take it easy around the corners on most lanes and entry/exit. I think the rain hasn't helped at all washing everything into the road.
 
Yeah the composition here of the ground is very chalky which seems to lend itself to washing onto the roads very easily from the farmers fields onto the roads. That's my excuse for such a slow average speed all the time.
 
#Chri5# said:
After some pre-ride fettling on Saturday afternoon, I had expected to be writing a post asking why micro-adjust on my Ultegra 80x0 Di2 front mech wasn't working. Adjustments work fine on the rear but pressing either button on the front shifter wasn't moving the mech, though the red LED on the Di2 control box would flash. As I was riding an evening/night sportive on Saturday, I figured it wasn't the time to totally screw-up the front shifting so left it alone for another day. However...
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New chain and 8050 Di2 front-mech fitted yesterday. I can also answer my own question about micro-adjust not working on the front-mech...

I fitted the new mech, working through the installation process as I've never done a Di2 mech before (there's some good content on https://bettershifting.com/). I got to the stage of setting the low-limit via micro-adjust and ran into the same issue (flashing red LED, no mech movement). I thought it was unlikely to be the mech (brand-new), so I plugged it in to the garage PC and upgraded the firmware but still no joy. Reading the dealer guide (RTFM!) then showed you have to be in little/big (front/rear) for the mech to move (page 137, so no wonder I didn't find that the other day!). If you're not, the LED just flashes at you.
 
#Chri5# said:
New chain and 8050 Di2 front-mech fitted yesterday. I can also answer my own question about micro-adjust not working on the front-mech...

I fitted the new mech, working through the installation process as I've never done a Di2 mech before (there's some good content on https://bettershifting.com/). I got to the stage of setting the low-limit via micro-adjust and ran into the same issue (flashing red LED, no mech movement). I thought it was unlikely to be the mech (brand-new), so I plugged it in to the garage PC and upgraded the firmware but still no joy. Reading the dealer guide (RTFM!) then showed you have to be in little/big (front/rear) for the mech to move (page 137, so no wonder I didn't find that the other day!). If you're not, the LED just flashes at you.
Click to expand...

Interesting! Will take a look at that!
 
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