Combating energy prices

Psycho Ned said:
I always assumed the smart meter IHD put the standing charge on as well but not 100% on that.
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Thanks.

From Eons website..
“your IHD will show your SC each day, which usually refreshes at midnight each day”
I’m paying 38p SC, so it seems correct ref the reading first thing in the morning.
 
SoliD said:
Had my insulation turn up today, this will be going on the inside of my walls upstairs as I have a tile clad house, so single brick, felt, tile, so in the winter it's cold and in the summer it gets hot and stays hot.

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So yesterday marked the day when all 25 sheets of Celotex were used up (bar some odds and sods) Obviously battened and insulted the internal walls of 4 bedrooms as discussed earlier in the thread and then the leftovers (6 sheets iirc) went up in the loft to replace any wool under the boarded centre section and the wool had been compacted to fit in the 100mm void. So this should be roughly 2.5 times more insulating looking at the comparable u values and taking into account the compacted wool.

As only one half of my loft had been boarded I used the opportunity to finish the other half and go right up to the gables with the celotex, so have also given myself another chunk of loft space, probably won't shove much more up there but means getting the christmas decs down once a year will be a darn sight easier! Will be keeping an eye on condensation over the winter as some of the wool is maybe 600mm deep where I've laid whatever was left on top of each other and I've heard this can cause issues, but the majority is now 350mm-400mm except in the eaves where i've kept an air gap.
 
I got the Samsung DV9BTA020AE for £470 and as per above the amount of electric it uses compared to the conventional one should mean it'll pay for itself within a couple of years at current rates.
 
Not sure if it's mentioned elsewhere but it really annoys me that the 0% vat rates only applies to work being done by qualifing contractors, so any insulation you buy is full 20% VAT, pretty sure it's same for buying your own solar panels etc. Which as wek now is then just generally absorbed by the people doing the work rather than seeing an actual reduction in cost.
 
I bought a Beko heat pump tumble dryer Sep 2020. Can’t fault it for the price (£400).

I also have a Samsung EcoBubble washing machine. Had to buy a new one in May as my last EcoBubble gave up the ghost after 7 years of hard work!
 
SoliD said:
As only one half of my loft had been boarded I used the opportunity to finish the other half and go right up to the gables with the celotex, so have also given myself another chunk of loft space, probably won't shove much more up there but means getting the christmas decs down once a year will be a darn sight easier! Will be keeping an eye on condensation over the winter as some of the wool is maybe 600mm deep where I've laid whatever was left on top of each other and I've heard this can cause issues, but the majority is now 350mm-400mm except in the eaves where i've kept an air gap.
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Rather than raising my loft boarding to get 270mm of wool, can I just use Celotex instead? My boards are around 160mm from the ceiling/floor.
 
ChrisD. said:
Rather than raising my loft boarding to get 270mm of wool, can I just use Celotex instead? My boards are around 160mm from the ceiling/floor.
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You can indeed

There are people who say you need to be careful of damp since they will effectively block the moisture from getting out compared to glass fibre.

Im planning to go the celotex route myself but in advance of that I am planning to paint all my upstairs ceilings with Zinsser BIN (to seal) and then permawhite (because the finish is superb) to reduce the ability of moisture to seep into the loft first
 
Yes, think 125mm for loft insulation is the current regs for celotex/pir stuff, so if you put in 150mm you'll be well over the requirements. Obviously it's a bit less flexible with light cables etc and twice the price but much more insulating.
 
You can also mix and match
Im planning to leave the lower layer of wool (70mm-100mm) and put PIR board over the top, probably 100mm and the chipboard on top.
I believe you dont need to do anything in regards supporting the boards over the top of the pir, just make sure your boards match the joists below (ie joins are over joists)
 
Sorry what do you mean @mercenery in regards supporting the boards. Do you mean loose lay them on top of the PIR?
 
ah ok! I've not boarded some of mine where it's storing stuff at the ends of the lost, it's easily able to spread the weight of a body when kneeling that's for sure, but would definitely board and secure to ensure it's relatively stable.
 
if we had (for example) 100mm of loft insulation, how much actual difference would an additional 200mm make ?

We moved in to our house last year (5 bed detached) and it was quite cold so we used the heating quite a bit more than our old house, but that was a newer built 3 bed end terrace.
Our new house is right on the end of the estate and pretty exposed in terms of wind etc compared to other houses in the estate.
 
MassiveJim said:
if we had (for example) 100mm of loft insulation, how much actual difference would an additional 200mm make ?

We moved in to our house last year (5 bed detached) and it was quite cold so we used the heating quite a bit more than our old house, but that was a newer built 3 bed end terrace.
Our new house is right on the end of the estate and pretty exposed in terms of wind etc compared to other houses in the estate.
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In terms of thermal resistance between 100mm and 270mm (a common top up added perpendicular to the joists) is about 3x, 2.25m2K/W compared with 6.11m2K/W.

So it would decrease the rate that heat is lost significantly.
 
Has anyone got a Tapo P100 Smart Plug and can tell me how much energy it uses just being plugged in with the appliance it's attached to turned off? I don't have a smart meter and don't fancy turning everything off for an hour!
Thanks...
 
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