They were fine once i got the pedal the right way but i seemed to knock it round rather than flat.I've always found the SPD-SL pedal (and now Look) fairly easy to get into once you get the knack of it.
They were fine once i got the pedal the right way but i seemed to knock it round rather than flat.
Tough tyres, even cheaper for the winter is well recommended. I say winter, but generally this time of year once there's more rubbish washed out on the roads, more hedge cutting etc. Just generally slower/heavier/tougher tyres so you're not shredding more expensive soft & fast summer tyres. Obviously much easier to do if you have summer & winter wheelsets (a 'pinnacle' of bike ownership is having fancy summer wheels!). Also links in quite well if running tubeless (I know you're not) where changing sealant every 6-8 months is just a ballache/messy/hassle. You can just spend time doing that over several days/weekend while riding your other wheels, then when 'ready' just swap them straight over when you're ready. A little lazy maybe, but also gives you a set of 'backup' wheels with tyres generally mounted too.Right now I have 'Panaracer Race C Evo 4' on there. Rode in the dry yesterday and had no problems. Having removed my pinch flats issues, but keeping pressures nice and high, I seem to get hit in a flurry, which is why I wonder if sometimes there is a delay. You ride over a bunch of nasty stuff, one bit might go right through and cause the flat. A few other bits embed themselves in and work their way in over the next 20 or 30 miles maybe?
Yeah, this is what I'm wondering about doing. Sticking some tough tyres on just for winter.
I'm even thinking bigger, using my Endurace this winter, then maybe... maybe treating myself in Feb/Mar to a new bike and the Endurace would then be my winter bike.
Everyone I know with a Radar loves them. I fail to really 'see the need' myself - but am quite accustomed to riding in busy work traffic when commuting so quite biased.After my motorbike had been stolen last week I'm looking at some retail therapy to cheer myself up with but I don't know what. Maybe the radar light but not sure.
This. Full/fixed guards are well recommended.Just get an ass saver for the worst case, nothing is as good as proper mud guards.
Maybe the radar light but not sure.
Everyone I know with a Radar loves them. I fail to really 'see the need' myself - but am quite accustomed to riding in busy work traffic when commuting so quite biased.
I've only had 3 punctures in 3(?) years on tubeless which didn't seal. 2 of them just some more air got me home with a couple of top ups on the way. The other was similar, it probably would've sealed enough to get home but I took the tyre off and put a patch on the inside, then got my pump stuck on the valve head (it came unscrewed inside the pump), so needed a rescue. Try as I could, couldn't get it off and ended up breaking the valve and pump. Not technically a tubeless issue - just a learning curve - tighten your valve cores enough and don't have a screw on portable pump!Nah i very much work from home and the office is only a 5 mins walk if i ever go in. Just got something to use at dinner time to get out of the house and give me legs a bit of rest from running.
Good point on the bike light it is very bright. If the shoes i've ordered don't fit when i get the bike i'll just chuck some flats on it from my mtb if they fit and use my mtb shoes.
Yeh they're sorting the tubeless out for me, they recommended getting a tube in the saddle bag on the off chance theres a bad puncture
Road pedals being '1-sided' can take some getting used to. The pedals are weighted so they always orientate themselves rotated 'back down' (where the mechanism is heaviest). So clipping in becomes more of a 'toe in and push down' to get the front part of the cleat in the top of the pedal, rotating it around in the same action, then the rear hinged/sprung part clips onto the rear of the cleat.Only issue i had was with the pedals, i've used mountain bike spds before with no issues but found the single sided entry ones quite difficult. Getting out was fine as it's just the same but there was a few times where the pedal ended up upside down and me struggling to get it the right way.
I'll give it a handful of rides and if i don't get the hang of it i'll grab some wahoo speedplay ones
See I read that the wrong way - cyclists should be aware of their surroundings enough not to get unexpected passes without a radar! I've had very few, the times I do they have tended to be into a block headwind (so wind noise drowns out road noise) or in busy traffic when a small electric car overtakes slowly so you can't hear it's road noise. A Nissan Leaf caught me out a number of times when towing the trailer on a windy day - overtaking slowly so wouldn't hear it until it was alongside. The radar only 'fixes' one of those problems - loud ambient with no other vehicles around.I love my radar. Hadn't been out on the bike in 2 weeks or so and my head unit was dead so I went without it and it was really weird not knowing what was behind you. Lead to some unexpected passes.
That's it - 'sliding' into them.My lad was around yesterday so showed him the bike and setup, he asked about the pedals and it was when showing him i realised why i struggled. so on my mountain bike ones you jut kinda stamped into them where as these are more about slide up into them.
Are really 'normal' people really doing this in the UK on their social/commuter/weekend bikes? Get enough punctures on UK roads with 'normal' innertubes! I wasn't aware spending £30 on an inner tube to save 100 grams was a 'thing'. I get it on maybe a TT bike, or a hill climb setup, maybe even a 'best weather bike', but not really on a wheel/tyre being exposed to normal UK roads the rest of the time... It wouldn't make sense to compromise some toughness just to save some grams. If that's really a thing then run tubulars. It'd probably work out cheaper!Has anyone tried the new superlightweight innertubes? I'd seen the ones sold in the UK by Pirelli and Tubulito but at £30 each I thought they were far to expensive.
Then I got an email from the slow-shipping Chinese marketplace and thought it was worth a punt.
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At £31.68 for 4 innertubes I ordered them. After shipping costs, it was £42. They took ages to arrive as expected but came a couple of days ago.
After swapping out the old bog standard ones, I could clearly notice the difference in weight just holding the wheel. Ive only used them on 2 rides so far but they feel good, seem to roll a tad better (prob in my head I know). I'll see how they do for puncture protection, but last night I went over a few nasty stones and after hitting them, I was waiting for the air to go from the wheel but all was OK.
Ive seen a few people complaining of the Tubulito ones losing air from the join of the valve, but these don't seem to be losing any air so far.
The biggest benefit for me is how tiny they are when folded up. Ive recently changed my seat bag for a tiny Silca one and I had to cram a standard innertube into it. These ones I can stick 2 in and there is still loads of room.
See I read that the wrong way - cyclists should be aware of their surroundings enough not to get unexpected passes without a radar! I've had very few, the times I do they have tended to be into a block headwind (so wind noise drowns out road noise) or in busy traffic when a small electric car overtakes slowly so you can't hear it's road noise. A Nissan Leaf caught me out a number of times when towing the trailer on a windy day - overtaking slowly so wouldn't hear it until it was alongside. The radar only 'fixes' one of those problems - loud ambient with no other vehicles around.
Exactly this. It's surprising how noisy wind can be and how quiet some cars are. Even if it's quiet, the radar is normally aware before I am. And... as you do, I pretty much always check behind too, but normally it's a quick glance at the radar first. The only time it doesn't show someone is if they're going (and have been for a while) the same speed as you, in which case, they aren't so much a danger!I don't get passed without hearing the car but I know its there from about 200m+ away with the radar instead of 15-20m. I know when the road behind me is almost certainly clear. I still check but its good for my piece of mind.
Exactly this. It's surprising how noisy wind can be and how quiet some cars are. Even if it's quiet, the radar is normally aware before I am. And... as you do, I pretty much always check behind too, but normally it's a quick glance at the radar first. The only time it doesn't show someone is if they're going (and have been for a while) the same speed as you, in which case, they aren't so much a danger!
I usually wear Shokz, so at least your ears aren't covered/blocked.The simple solution is to not listen to things when I cycle