Absoltuely this, was in Vegas and Utah 2 weeks ago in 35+c walking around with the occasional run with barely any shade and managed just fine, just keeping fluid topped up. went to the shops at lunch and been sweating ever since. Due to be racing tonight but luckily not until 7.30, and the breeze is helping, but when it was that hot period of 30+ last year it was nigh on unbearable to go out riding later in the day.
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Pffft you big bunch of pansies! I was out yesterday when it was 29 degrees here. To be fair, we haven't had any rain in weeks so it really wasn't that bad. Lovely weather in all honesty. Biggest issue is that I am whiter than white and have to slather myself in suncream to make sure I don't crisp up too much and that just makes everything sweaty and slimy.
Associate
- Joined
- 21 Jun 2004
- Posts
- 1,716
Has anyone had an issue with garmin 830/840 not showing strava segments at all?
I am very impressed with the 840 otherwise, but I was in the impression I should be able to see some strava segments. I have tried changing to garmin segments for my next ride, but I was expecting it to be an easier setup.
My strava/garmin accounts are linked and rises come across without a problem (now).
Was a shame doing some hills and segments that I had no previous timing for comparison. I had the odd segment even when using my phone and the strava app previously, so was expecting more really.
I am very impressed with the 840 otherwise, but I was in the impression I should be able to see some strava segments. I have tried changing to garmin segments for my next ride, but I was expecting it to be an easier setup.
My strava/garmin accounts are linked and rises come across without a problem (now).
Was a shame doing some hills and segments that I had no previous timing for comparison. I had the odd segment even when using my phone and the strava app previously, so was expecting more really.
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 May 2004
- Posts
- 4,466
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I don't intend to, having only just started to learn how to ride a bike! The sprint triathlon is in 6 weeks' time and I've had to learn how to swim and took lessons last year.
Got out last night for the first time in a while. Fairly impressed with myself as the gears weren't shifting very well before i went away but i made some adjustments and it worked nicely (Left my newly built bike in Spain). New saddle started off a little uncomfortable but seemed better after a bit. Hopefully that continues!
One thing i did seem to like was a return to clipless pedals. In Spain i'd just used flat pedals and had enjoyed the freedom it offered when riding somewhere and then not walking like an idiot, especially as the shoes i had with me didn't fit very well! I told myself it didn't make too much of a difference, however having used my badly fitting shoes last night due to no flat pedals it felt nice being "connected" again.
I'm obviously ignoring the foot pain i experienced!
One thing i did seem to like was a return to clipless pedals. In Spain i'd just used flat pedals and had enjoyed the freedom it offered when riding somewhere and then not walking like an idiot, especially as the shoes i had with me didn't fit very well! I told myself it didn't make too much of a difference, however having used my badly fitting shoes last night due to no flat pedals it felt nice being "connected" again.
I'm obviously ignoring the foot pain i experienced!
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I've just got an Edge 1040 to replace my 800, so live segments is new to me.
First ride out with the 1040 I followed a course I made with RideWithGPS (my usual choice). I didn't get any segments, so reading/digging this week revealed you need to have Garmin/Strava accounts linked, so your starred Strava segments show up in Garmin Connect. I believe the route also needs to be made on Strava and linked across - looking at the GPX file it looks like Strava embeds extra waypoints for the segments. Starred segments are also sync'd onto your Edge (I found them in a folder Garmin > Segments when you look round the file system via USB).
That said, there's a thread running on the Garmin 1040 forum from people saying Strava segments have stopped working for them (with or without a course), so it's entirely possible Garmin broke them in a recent firmware. I'm hoping to get on Sunday to follow a route I made in Strava to see if live segments show up or not.
Figuring out Strava segments aside, the 1040 is quite an upgrade from an 800. I suppose it should be given my 800 will be 10 years old in December. I spent an hour or so last Saturday setting up data screens and just looking through all the new options, so I started my ride on Sunday morning with under 100% battery. I did 75 miles / 4.5 hours with the GPS set to multi-band (which uses the most battery) and I got home with ~90% battery left. I'm happiest because it means not having to use a USB power bank for long rides anymore! ClimbPro is quite handy for pacing climbs you don't know.
True, however i think it'd be nice for the screen to show the full climb. Sometimes i think i'm half way or near the end, only for it to continue to scroll along!
I know scrolling means it can be more detailed on smaller adjustments, and it's probably required for longer climbs over a couple miles.
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Yeh, also, when you get older, you go slower.
Associate
- Joined
- 21 Jun 2004
- Posts
- 1,716
Glad to know it’s just not me without live segments.
Nice on the 1040, I was very tempted when it was on offer and only slightly more than the 840. Unfortunately, the deals had all ended by my birthday and did not want to chance a European company and import charges.
I have imported my rides from Garmin so far (only had 3) and these did not have any live segments. I have not starred segments before, but i would have thought they should pull through regardless in a strava exported route. I quite like the strava route finder on the app, but I can’t seem to access this on their website. It would be nice to see on a bigger screen to see more detail. I had 8km off road in my last ride mostly on a trail, but there was a rutted gravel climb with a section at 22% and a narrow path I would have avoided in hindsight!
Soldato
- Joined
- 9 Nov 2005
- Posts
- 9,589
- Location
- Southampton, hopefully not too hot, or too cold
It's very different picture now with long covid, but until late September last year while I was 48, I was beating or coming a very close second to my best times mostly up hill segments since I started riding a lot more than commutes in 2017.
So while getting older should result in you getting slower if training/racing a similar amount and health history is comparable, my own short history of numbers went against that expected trend until eight months ago.
I so wish I'd discovered the South Downs lanes when I moved to Southampton for uni back in late '92, far less hostile road traffic, fresh air and nature plus it could have helped me no end with dark mental health issues I had in the second half of the 90s. Back then I was heavily into Taekwondo and typically weighed 70-73Kg, I suspect I could have trained myself to comfortably hold north of 4W/Kg for 20mins+, given I was there or there-abouts last year while ~80Kg... Now 92Kg and ~2.5W/Kg for 20mins leaves me in a chronic fatigue mess for at least a couple of days, what a difference a year makes.
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This is a question I've asked my clubmates (who are mostly in their 60's while I'm 48). With all else remaining the same (including your body/age, which is of course not possible) continued cycling should mean continued improvement, which will slow the closer you get to your own personal peak. This is fighting the (what I assume is some form of) bell curve that is your performance over age, which for me will be on its way down. From what I understand, this descent is slower with cycling than some other more explosive sports as we lose fewer slow twitch muscle fibres than fast twitch, but there is still a decline. So, at what age will my improvement from training/time in the saddle, be overtaken by the decline from age? Opinion seemed to be mid 50's.
There are loads of people who continue to improve well into their 60s. The only issue is how good you were at each age. If you were elite at age 30 you aren't going to be improving in your 50s. If you were a decent cyclist in your 30s you could 100% be improving in your 60s. You would just need to be far more careful and targeted in your training.
Well done and i hope it goes well. This is the best training video i could find to help with the swim.
I am getting very ****** off with my gears at the moment. I will index them perfectly and over the course of a ride they will get out of whack again. I had some issue with the internal cable routing when I went to replace the gear cables but I overcame that. I don't know if its damaged or what but its bloody annoying and trying to figure out how to replace the internal routing and with what is another faff.
I'm tempted to sack it off and just go di2 but that will probably cost me about £700 after I sold my current groupset. I have a mix of dura ace shifters and ultegra everything else.
I've also started getting a knocking sound periodically. Not quite sure where its coming from. Having a bit of a mare on the mechanical front right now. When the gears work they are lovely. When they aren't its bloody annoying!
Has anyone else got experience replacing internal cable routing? Was it a massive faff? Should I just get di2 and be done with it.
I'm tempted to sack it off and just go di2 but that will probably cost me about £700 after I sold my current groupset. I have a mix of dura ace shifters and ultegra everything else.
I've also started getting a knocking sound periodically. Not quite sure where its coming from. Having a bit of a mare on the mechanical front right now. When the gears work they are lovely. When they aren't its bloody annoying!
Has anyone else got experience replacing internal cable routing? Was it a massive faff? Should I just get di2 and be done with it.
Every single time something happens with my bike gears I go into "sod it, ill go di2" mode but have never pulled the trigger yet... maybe next year (about to have another baby so outside riding time is about to be super limited for a while with 2 kids under 3)
The trainer is one of the reasons I want it as well. Bit easier to much around with the "cable tension" to get it working nicely on the trainer as well as the bike.
Its just really frustrating because when the gears work perfectly they are wonderful and I know that di2 won't really shift any better than my current setup and there is something nice about mechanical clicks.
I can pick up 12 speed ultegra for about £1400 and sell my current groupset for ~£500-600 all told but thats still a chunk of money. My mate will absolutely rinse me as well as hes been asking me when I am going to get di2 for ages. His bike cost about £300 and he still smokes me 90% of the time
I finally did it. Saturday afternoon after lunch 'ok I've got a couple of hours, surely that's all I need to put the di2 groupset on" (full change from mechanical to Di2). 5pm comes and the call to stop for dinner... Back out at 7pm 'only a few bits to finish off' 9.30pm 'ok that's enough for today'. So much for getting it done in a couple of hours so I could also get a 3 hour ride in!
But it is done and riding well, some indexing to slight tweak but 98% there. Glad I left wrapping the bar tape until Sunday evening, as did a really tidy job. Less glad I didn't test ride it first and realise I've fitted the hoods (even drilled the bars for perfect cable placement) with it not perfectly straight in the stand... DOH! So hoods around 20 degrees 'too far' over - so rotating them back towards me they look absolutely ridiculous. But other than that - perfect!
Have told myself now I've done the gears (& new chainrings) I'll get LBS to replace the hydraulic hoses rather than do it myself. When they do I'll need to re-tape it anyway, but it'll probably annoy me long before then... But I do find taping handlebars pretty therapeutic! It's a job that done well gives great satisfaction! I even used my old tape to wrap the lawnmower handle...!
It's this one, if you think it'll fit/standard? Was a fantastic light and used it on the back of one of the trailers but when battery life started to drop off I relegated it to a helmet light. Only Moon light I've owned and not been tempted by another. Same with Lezyne, I've had no luck with batteries living more than a few years from either brand.
Internal cable routing is a pain, it takes patience and a lot of luck. I messed mine up a while ago, my frame had rubbery internals (like pipe cladding) but the times I pushed through a new (gear) cable outer it always caught and got gammed up, so each time it has I've ended up removing those parts to get my cables through. Also losing an 'end' is a mistake you'll make and learn from. You need tons of patience! Twice now I've ended up fishing a cable through my frame, using something end to get through there is a must - for my DI2 the old hoover on one side and some cotton through worked well (you then pull something stronger through with it, then the cable)! Previously I've used bits of old inner cable to do the same - a draw cord that won't snap - put a endcap on it and you have something to tape against. Other times something more rigid - I've used a welding rod, fibreglass cable rod, and old spoke (bend the end so you have a 'hook'!) and even a bamboo cane. Have heard of people using an old nut and a magnet on the outside of the frame to draw it through (much of the 'internal wiring kits' are these) but I've never tried it. Hardest thing is getting something through the routing hole small enough that you can tape/snag your outer/cable with.
One of the best tips I can give - using an 'inner' cable itself to feed a new 'outer'. So you remove your old inner, have a far longer new inner fed through, then you push the old outer over the top of the new inner with the new outer. It's tricky but does work!
But it is done and riding well, some indexing to slight tweak but 98% there. Glad I left wrapping the bar tape until Sunday evening, as did a really tidy job. Less glad I didn't test ride it first and realise I've fitted the hoods (even drilled the bars for perfect cable placement) with it not perfectly straight in the stand... DOH! So hoods around 20 degrees 'too far' over - so rotating them back towards me they look absolutely ridiculous. But other than that - perfect!
Have told myself now I've done the gears (& new chainrings) I'll get LBS to replace the hydraulic hoses rather than do it myself. When they do I'll need to re-tape it anyway, but it'll probably annoy me long before then... But I do find taping handlebars pretty therapeutic! It's a job that done well gives great satisfaction! I even used my old tape to wrap the lawnmower handle...!
This! Much could be said for just 'rolling around' doing social miles with friends rather than hammering it!
Yup, crazy humidity here the last few afternoons. Before then it was proper summer and just stayed the same all day, now feels more like Florida afternoons where a spike in humidity leads to a rain shower 50% the time.
Ridden Zwift a few evenings recently where it starts at 28 degrees in my garage, so I'm getting acclimatised with my indoor riding - for the outdoor!
Foot pain is likely just cleat placement, or lack of float, or lack of support so you're doing them up too tight. But yeah, the feeling of stability of being clipped in is second to none! Although I'm a bad one for it now, any time I've ridden flats since I've ended up with injured shins!
This, or something very similar. The 'waypoints' for segments. The Wahoo ELEMNT mapping from Strava doesn't contain them so you get no segment notifications, but mapping from RWGPS you do. I don't know if that's still the same across all their units or if Garmin is the same.
Still good miles and fitness, keep working at it. Slow and constant rebuild after the seasons of setbacks and illness' you've had - many would have given up!
@Drollic I've got an old Moon Nebula rear, so may have the bracket for it somewhere. Seem to recall I fiddled with it a few years back to fit it to my helmet so it's likely had holes drilled into it for cable ties to fit around it, then the light battery was toast and it didn't last more than an hour so all the effort was wasted! Unless I rage^binned it should be able to dig it out for you.
It's this one, if you think it'll fit/standard? Was a fantastic light and used it on the back of one of the trailers but when battery life started to drop off I relegated it to a helmet light. Only Moon light I've owned and not been tempted by another. Same with Lezyne, I've had no luck with batteries living more than a few years from either brand.
Knocking sound could be lots of different things, lots of info online about how to track it down but if you want any pointers then feel free to post up your diagnosis steps here to get some feedback.
Internal cable routing is a pain, it takes patience and a lot of luck. I messed mine up a while ago, my frame had rubbery internals (like pipe cladding) but the times I pushed through a new (gear) cable outer it always caught and got gammed up, so each time it has I've ended up removing those parts to get my cables through. Also losing an 'end' is a mistake you'll make and learn from. You need tons of patience! Twice now I've ended up fishing a cable through my frame, using something end to get through there is a must - for my DI2 the old hoover on one side and some cotton through worked well (you then pull something stronger through with it, then the cable)! Previously I've used bits of old inner cable to do the same - a draw cord that won't snap - put a endcap on it and you have something to tape against. Other times something more rigid - I've used a welding rod, fibreglass cable rod, and old spoke (bend the end so you have a 'hook'!) and even a bamboo cane. Have heard of people using an old nut and a magnet on the outside of the frame to draw it through (much of the 'internal wiring kits' are these) but I've never tried it. Hardest thing is getting something through the routing hole small enough that you can tape/snag your outer/cable with.
One of the best tips I can give - using an 'inner' cable itself to feed a new 'outer'. So you remove your old inner, have a far longer new inner fed through, then you push the old outer over the top of the new inner with the new outer. It's tricky but does work!
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Oh random one. Was it you @Lethal` where we talked about Cassette packaging?
Ordered an 11-34 from Condor last week. HG700 (so 105) and it didn't come with any 'retail' type packaging. Plain cassette with a plastic inner holding it together, wrapped in brown paper in a Condor box. It's not even wrapped in plastic!
I came from mechanical hydraulic R785 shifters with a mostly Ultegra R8000 setup to the R785 Di2 version shifters and R8050 setup. Picked up a pair of new shifters a new Front and Rear R8050 Derailleurs several years ago and never finished off getting the bits together. Prices over lockdown(s) and price hikes I didn't buy a battery (was only buying new) or any of the ports and cables until they came back down to 'affordable' (justifiable) prices. During that time had grabbed various cables and junctions on deals and some second hand. Also picking up a second set of (used) R785 shifters, another front R8050 and a (used) rear 6870 and set of shifters. Did pick up another R8050 front derailleur during the middle of all that and flogged it (made £50!).
So built up the Zwift bike to learn how to do it and get things right last autumn. Got all components tested on it, so was just lacking another battery (they've just gone up in price since last autumn!) and enough cables. Bit the bullet last week and ordered a second battery (£147 vs £97 last autumn on what I know was a cracking deal). My Zwift setup still needs some longer cables and some grommets as at the moment it's taped /tied on the outside of my Zwifting frame, but I had most of the wires pretty much the right length for my outdoor build.
Total price so far is £1436 - that is 2 Di2 builds with quite a mixture of new and used parts, built over several years. But looking at market prices I figure could get one together a similar way for 800-ish with a bit of luck and time. I'd happily buy second hand derailleurs and shifters - the ones I've picked up have barely a scuff on them and have been immaculate. I also don't have the Wireless unit, or the PC connector, will get them in time. £75 of that price is a charger. Bought new - would say buy S/H.
As for actually cabling it vs mechanical. It's very much the same, but easier. But depending on where you put your junctions it can get quite confusing, you obviously only have 1 cable in your downtube, rather than 2, but then (generally) need the space around your BB to route cables to go 3 different directions AND fit a junction box in there. The cables themselves are quite a bit thinner, but the connectors are as wide as a gear cable (4mm?). So they fit and squeeze through the same openings, but those you could ram a gear outer through and then pull it hard, you can't do that with cables (or shouldn't!). I actually used a little file and widened 2 of my holes very slightly so the connectors would fit through easier (with a bit of grease on the opening to assist).
This website is an absolute godsend and the guy running it has answered a couple of my questions through that time. Really knowledgeable and so much real world info there. I've not even looked at the 'correct' Shimano way of doing things, everything from his site. Will send some pennies his way at some point as it's been invaluable for getting my head around it and understand enough to just (eventually) crack on and do it myself - prime example here where I'm not using a Y splitter at the bars - https://bettershifting.com/installation-guide/bar-end-junction-ew-rs910-installation-guide/
Ordered an 11-34 from Condor last week. HG700 (so 105) and it didn't come with any 'retail' type packaging. Plain cassette with a plastic inner holding it together, wrapped in brown paper in a Condor box. It's not even wrapped in plastic!
My Di2 is SD50 wires so the older '11 speed' type, not the newer SD300 wires (which are thinner). Went this route as everything so much cheaper, I bought some parts before lockdown and then due to crazy price hikes didn't finish getting things to finish it off until the last 12-18 months. SD300 was new at the time, still commands quite a premium price.
I came from mechanical hydraulic R785 shifters with a mostly Ultegra R8000 setup to the R785 Di2 version shifters and R8050 setup. Picked up a pair of new shifters a new Front and Rear R8050 Derailleurs several years ago and never finished off getting the bits together. Prices over lockdown(s) and price hikes I didn't buy a battery (was only buying new) or any of the ports and cables until they came back down to 'affordable' (justifiable) prices. During that time had grabbed various cables and junctions on deals and some second hand. Also picking up a second set of (used) R785 shifters, another front R8050 and a (used) rear 6870 and set of shifters. Did pick up another R8050 front derailleur during the middle of all that and flogged it (made £50!).
So built up the Zwift bike to learn how to do it and get things right last autumn. Got all components tested on it, so was just lacking another battery (they've just gone up in price since last autumn!) and enough cables. Bit the bullet last week and ordered a second battery (£147 vs £97 last autumn on what I know was a cracking deal). My Zwift setup still needs some longer cables and some grommets as at the moment it's taped /tied on the outside of my Zwifting frame, but I had most of the wires pretty much the right length for my outdoor build.
Total price so far is £1436 - that is 2 Di2 builds with quite a mixture of new and used parts, built over several years. But looking at market prices I figure could get one together a similar way for 800-ish with a bit of luck and time. I'd happily buy second hand derailleurs and shifters - the ones I've picked up have barely a scuff on them and have been immaculate. I also don't have the Wireless unit, or the PC connector, will get them in time. £75 of that price is a charger. Bought new - would say buy S/H.
As for actually cabling it vs mechanical. It's very much the same, but easier. But depending on where you put your junctions it can get quite confusing, you obviously only have 1 cable in your downtube, rather than 2, but then (generally) need the space around your BB to route cables to go 3 different directions AND fit a junction box in there. The cables themselves are quite a bit thinner, but the connectors are as wide as a gear cable (4mm?). So they fit and squeeze through the same openings, but those you could ram a gear outer through and then pull it hard, you can't do that with cables (or shouldn't!). I actually used a little file and widened 2 of my holes very slightly so the connectors would fit through easier (with a bit of grease on the opening to assist).
This website is an absolute godsend and the guy running it has answered a couple of my questions through that time. Really knowledgeable and so much real world info there. I've not even looked at the 'correct' Shimano way of doing things, everything from his site. Will send some pennies his way at some point as it's been invaluable for getting my head around it and understand enough to just (eventually) crack on and do it myself - prime example here where I'm not using a Y splitter at the bars - https://bettershifting.com/installation-guide/bar-end-junction-ew-rs910-installation-guide/
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