Road Cycling

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Been trying to sell my Ribble Endurance SL Disc frame on eBay and Facebook and I'm down to £500 and it's still not shifting.
Surprised as it's in great condition apart from a small chip. Makes me think Ribble must be really undesirable.

Not sure I want to go much lower as I might as well get a second hand groupset and replace my 20 year old commuter/winter bike with it.
 

fez

fez

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How did you find indexing the rear derailleur?

For me there was a massive range where it seemed to shift well so even though there's no problem it just didn't feel precise.

Found indexing the rear derailleur absolutely fine honestly. Not sure what you mean about it not feeling precise. Can you elaborate a little?
 
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Found indexing the rear derailleur absolutely fine honestly. Not sure what you mean about it not feeling precise. Can you elaborate a little?
Just that there was a very wide range of limits where it shifted well. Not that the shifting wasn't precise.
I expected there to be a small range of limits that shifting was smooth in.

Perhaps I'm mixing limits with indexing but it's all done in one now.
 

fez

fez

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Been trying to sell my Ribble Endurance SL Disc frame on eBay and Facebook and I'm down to £500 and it's still not shifting.
Surprised as it's in great condition apart from a small chip. Makes me think Ribble must be really undesirable.

Not sure I want to go much lower as I might as well get a second hand groupset and replace my 20 year old commuter/winter bike with it.

I think there aren't that many people that are confident working on bikes to that extent and people are a little suspicious of frames as there could be sizing issues, hidden damage etc. Components sell well, just frames not so much. Have you listed it on road cycling uk marketplace. You might have more luck there or can at least ask why its not shifting and people will be brutally honest about it.

not that many people build things up from frames any more.

I think it doesn't make sense for most people. Buying all the parts is usually more expensive than buying new. You need various expensive tools if you don't have them and then it takes quite a while to build it up.

Certain frames are still super popular but unless its one of those desirable ones you probably won't get good money for a second hand frame.
 

fez

fez

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Just that there was a very wide range of limits where it shifted well. Not that the shifting wasn't precise.
I expected there to be a small range of limits that shifting was smooth in.

Perhaps I'm mixing limits with indexing but it's all done in one now.

I think its just that each "trim" movement is absolutely tiny. Can't remember if its 0.1mm or something like that.
 
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As to the actual functionality, its sublime. Best gear changes I have had and slightly better than when my previous groupset was dialled in to perfection. Hopefully after my first proper ride I will still have the same opinion of it. New hoods are a marked improvement over previous generation dura ace as well.
Great to hear after the hassles you've been through with your mechanical! :cool:

Been trying to sell my Ribble Endurance SL Disc frame on eBay and Facebook and I'm down to £500 and it's still not shifting.
Surprised as it's in great condition apart from a small chip. Makes me think Ribble must be really undesirable.

Not sure I want to go much lower as I might as well get a second hand groupset and replace my 20 year old commuter/winter bike with it.
To be honest, at that price I'd be absolutely & seriously considering the winter bike option with it! But I seem to recall Ribble pretty slack about clearance and guard mount points. But their site does mention mount points with usual 32mm tyre clearance but only 25mm with guards. I'd be playing around with some different guards (SKS) to get 28's on there but maybe some googling around first to see what others have been able to achieve rather than totally believing the Ribble site...

Fez has some mechanical groupset parts going spare! Then again so do I lol ;)

not that many people build things up from frames any more.
Yup, totally silly especially with the shortage still on many groupset parts. But I think we're still at the point where the vast majority of people spending money on bikes are 'new' so don't have the history and experience to consider building up. Bike manufacturers themselves don't really help - some moving direct to customer sales, plus the massive inventories of complete 'off the shelf' bikes being what's driving the supply chains. Not LBS themselves building them up to spec, or to demand.

I'm kinda still relying on some price slashes on bare frames this autumn to get a bargain. For me seems a better option than needing to spend £5-6000 for a complete bike (when I've got a set of Di2 hydraulic shifters already, wheels and various other bits with the tools to build it up). If I can get what I want - current thinking is an S-Works Aethos or SL7. Or a second hand 'Pro' version (one below S-Works) but they don't tend to sell them as bare frames. I legitimately can't afford the £10k+ needed to buy a new complete one. If I can't get that I'll be going back to looking at the Giant TCR as a complete bike, just so much bike for the money and a massive difference in price points compared to Specialized. I want front bar aero integration and something 'fast' and stiff while still not an absolute brute to ride. Plus looking at the 'high end' to get something significantly better than my quite upgraded Diverge, else it's really not worth doing.

Found indexing the rear derailleur absolutely fine honestly. Not sure what you mean about it not feeling precise. Can you elaborate a little?
Same here, really easy to tweak my RD and it seems very precise. Although I've got a bit of 'noise' I'd originally put down to things bedding in, tweaked my rear at the weekend to try and solve and can't seem to. So now think it could be some rub actually on the FD as really didn't tweak or do much with that as it sounded & seemed spot on in the stand. I had a slight jam on the weekend moving it from small->big chainring so it could be a little too close and also rubbing a bit in certain gears under load to make it sound like rear indexing...
 
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building up from a frame makes sense in two scenarios.

1) you want something very specific. This probably isnt a ribble frame
2) you have a load of parts already lying around. With the relatively recent shift to discs/lots of integration in road bikes there just aren't that many people who have a complete disc groupset and wheels lying around looking for a frame to put it on.

if you want a standard build with 105 or whatever, and you dont have all the parts lying around then buying a bike off the peg (new or used) is almost always better value. I've made decent money buying complete bikes and flipping them in parts before.

we had a long run of impressive compatibility that made tinkering fun but it's at or close to its end now - i am doing a lot of my miles at the mo on an early 90s crit bike which wont even fit a 25 tyre, and if i wanted to i could fit Red AXS ETAP, but stuff coming soon likely just wont fit
 
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I think I've finally decided what to do with my C2W voucher. Going to get a Specialized Sirrus 4.0 2023 and use the remainder for some glasses and bits n bobs. The Sirrus looks to be an excellent all round bike which can be used for nipping to the shop, canal rides with family, and it doesn't look terrible for covering ground on a normal road when required.

I'll continue to use my Whyte Suffolk for road rides, and I hope to get involved with a local club also. Then over the next few years, start compiling a list of what I dislike about the Suffolk then either upgrade parts, or, in 2-3 years time when 1) I'm much faster on the road and 2) much more experienced I'll be better suited to replace the Suffolk with a Carbon road bike.

Unless anyone has any better suggestions for an all-round bike in that budget I'll likely put the order in tomorrow.
 
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I think I've finally decided what to do with my C2W voucher. Going to get a Specialized Sirrus 4.0 2023 and use the remainder for some glasses and bits n bobs. The Sirrus looks to be an excellent all round bike which can be used for nipping to the shop, canal rides with family, and it doesn't look terrible for covering ground on a normal road when required.
Good bike and pretty well regarded (I think) but have to consider it'll have got a bit of 'brand tax' on it being Specialized, so you could probably find the 'same' or comparable bike for less money from another brand. I'm not that up on pricing and such around hybrids nor what brands Tredz generally carry for c2w to advise anything different.

Decathlon/Btwin etc always been one of the best price wise for something similar, unsure if that's still the case but would consider Decathlon having UK stores likely to be involved in some c2w schemes, but there's so many with their own choice of suppliers you have to start there with your specific scheme so can be quite limited to 'price match' or shop around to really get a deal. But guess that's part of it - if you're saving 20% off the value, yet it's over priced to start with, all swings and roundabouts. Digressed slightly but info there for others with a c2w - definitely worth taking advantage of, even if it is something fairly 'low end' to open up an easy bike for shop/family runs rather than something high end... N+1!
 
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Probably because its excellent and will make you 0.001 mph faster. :p

I've been a bit spendy this year but will probably look at doing this over the winter. I mean if I can sell my current groupset I'd probably take 4-500 out of it and at that point, it looks appealing

Still, i hate you :D :cry:
 
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First metric century ride today. Weather was good at around 17-18 and only two brief periods of spitting rain. Quite windy in exposed areas though and it always seems to be a headwind to me, not sure how that works!

2 snack bars and 2 bottles seemed to work ok provision wise. Ride overall went better than expected really. I think I need to upgrade the bike before doing an imperial century though. It is quite heavy (14kg) and I think road wheels and a road bike will help to avoid some of the wind and hopefully give some ‘free’ speed.

Stats:
100.44km, 1043m climb, 4hrs19 moving time
 

fez

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First metric century ride today. Weather was good at around 17-18 and only two brief periods of spitting rain. Quite windy in exposed areas though and it always seems to be a headwind to me, not sure how that works!

2 snack bars and 2 bottles seemed to work ok provision wise. Ride overall went better than expected really. I think I need to upgrade the bike before doing an imperial century though. It is quite heavy (14kg) and I think road wheels and a road bike will help to avoid some of the wind and hopefully give some ‘free’ speed.

Stats:
100.44km, 1043m climb, 4hrs19 moving time

Good effort. Averaging 23kph over 100km is decent going especially considering you aren't on a proper road bike. Reckon you could knock that up to 25 with the right tyres and bike quite easily.
 
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Good effort. Averaging 23kph over 100km is decent going especially considering you aren't on a proper road bike. Reckon you could knock that up to 25 with the right tyres and bike quite easily.
Thank you. 25 would make longer distances slightly better time wise. My current bike is the same as this one:


It was good when I started riding in lockdown again, but I think an upgrade is needed. Hopefully this tax year on the c2w scheme!
 

fez

fez

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Thank you. 25 would make longer distances slightly better time wise. My current bike is the same as this one:


It was good when I started riding in lockdown again, but I think an upgrade is needed. Hopefully this tax year on the c2w scheme!

Oh my, you did really well. Thats not really a hybrid to my mind. Thats like a 90s MTB. You would easily put a few km/h on your average speed, perhaps more with a proper road bike.
 
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As a heads up, i'm a fan of hydration tablets during warmer months, and these are a bargain!
 
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