Still have mine but they need a service, the nose bridge has come loose. Apparently I can do it myself, bit fearful of doing it even after watching multiple guides.
Images of items I have purchased (except trainers [no feet pics])
- Thread starter Zefan
- Start date
I use a Hozelok hose and aqua stop push fit connectors with my pressure washer with no problems.If you’re using a pressure washer, remove the aqua stop
The best advice I can give is to pull the trigger on the pressure washer gun with the machine turned off - this helps a lot in removing air from the pipe. After around 30 seconds, the pressure washer will spit a little bit then flow normally - that's when I turn my pressure washer on.
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Keep an eye on MetroX too. I have that as well and have been testing the Raptor Pro against it. At the moment, MetroX is winning in my mind.
you must prime the pump yes ; water is the main lube, also coolant, in the pump cylinders;
the aqua-stop valve on hozelock is mechanically opened when you mate it with the connector, anyway, so even if a pressure washer wanted to push water (dubiously) back into hoze it could do,
but most have a recycling/recirculating valve that just loops the water when trigger is off w/motor running - some new cheaper compacts/bosch appear to only switch motor on when you pull trigger.
Soldato
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I understand that you use it without issues currently, but the back pressure is hammering the pump, connectors and seals within the pressure washer.
I think it’s less problematic if you use it at the tap, but it’s best to avoid it.
My understanding is that it technically voids the warranty too, for most manufacturers.
My 13 year old Nilfisk C110 turns the motor off when you release the trigger, the motor only runs when the trigger is pulled.
As @jpaul says, the aqua stop is opened when you connect the hose to the machine. Unless I'm thinking of something else, but I'm referring to the connector that stops water coming out the hose unless it's connected to something.
Cheers! Can I ask why you have both? Are you a reviewer? My interest in this tech has exploded recently, I'm really looking forward to making all sorts of cool stuff, maybe even start a little side hustle.
I worked with Revopoint on the development of MetroX. I was one of the early alpha testers. I kept hearing how much better Raptor was than MetroX with loads of people constantly saying that MetroX was junk in comparison so I put my money where my mouth is and bought one to find out for myself. I'll be putting a video out at some point in the near future but from my testing so far I'd say they are so close in the laser modes it's hard to separate them. MetroX is more flexible and better value for money in my opinion.
That sounds like a fun endeavor! Post up the vids when you're done please, quite intrigued.
The use of an aquastop will, over time, knacker the pressure washer (likely why my last one died before I became aware of this).
Does your Nilfisk have an electrical cable running to the trigger to stop the motor?
I would recommend RTFM. Most pressure washer manuals state that an aquastop should not be used and recommend having around 7m or more of hose between the tap and washer. The water and hose act as an expansion vessel when the pump stops.
The start of my jobs to do this week.
Last bulb to finish the garden lights, which is now 45m of festoon lights and 8 Tapo GU10 colour bulbs and all on voice control. (Done)
Change the TV bracket to one that can be pulled out and later change the brush plate to wall connections for ease of cable management (To do)
At long last I've built up the courage to start ripping out a North facing lathe & plaster wall and replace with insulation, plasterboard and new electrics and lights in a room that has just 2 double sockets (one hidden behind heavy furniture) and one single ceiling light (Start today)
As luck would have it the floor under the floorboards is around 1.5m deep, very dry and will swallow that wall like @Gilbert89 swallows Pathias
Last bulb to finish the garden lights, which is now 45m of festoon lights and 8 Tapo GU10 colour bulbs and all on voice control. (Done)
Change the TV bracket to one that can be pulled out and later change the brush plate to wall connections for ease of cable management (To do)
At long last I've built up the courage to start ripping out a North facing lathe & plaster wall and replace with insulation, plasterboard and new electrics and lights in a room that has just 2 double sockets (one hidden behind heavy furniture) and one single ceiling light (Start today)
As luck would have it the floor under the floorboards is around 1.5m deep, very dry and will swallow that wall like @Gilbert89 swallows Pathias
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Do you have to charge those batteries separately?
Bought a Ebike conversion kit and used my Power tool batteries to make up the 36V needed
It is working now but a lot more to do
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If the aqua stop knackers my pressure washer tomorrow, I won't complain too much. I've had the best part of 13 years use from it and I paid just over £61 to buy it from Amazon. Even so, my machine doesn't sound as though it's going to give up the ghost any time soon (touches wood), so I'm hopeful that it's got a few more years left in it.
My pressure washer doesn't have an electrical running to the trigger, just the water pipe.
I don't see anything in the user manual for my C110.3 machine about aqua stops, but I did spot this:
That's essentially the same thing.
£61 is a good shout. You might want to check the price of a replacement as you are likely to need to invest more than double what you paid last time!
If you genuinely need the aquastop, you could perhaps replace it with a inline hozelock style valve, but it's probably not worth the faff.
If you don't really have a need for the Aquastop and it just saves having to walk back to the tap to turn it on once all connected - it's worth swapping out the autolock connector.
Soldato
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I bought some beer:
And some large biscuits:
And some large biscuits:
Soldato
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- 18 Nov 2019
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OMG, those giant biscuits look amazing!!I bought some beer:
And some large biscuits:
