Really bummed out about my shoes being a little too tight as it's quite sunny today and would've been a decent test. Quite tempted to take them for a trial run but I'm 99% sure that the next size up will be a better fit.
Most places should exchange for sizing, unless you've got them dirty or marked them fitting cleats...!?
Been thinking, the Specialized S-Works 6 I got as a bit of 'test' to judge the fit on, have rubbed my ankle bone and not happy with how tight the heels are. So won't be buying a new pair or trying a Wide. Fizik too tight (pair to bin). Bont too tight (pair to flog). Not that impressed with Lake (for a race shoe too flexy - my pair have a 'clicky' cleat mount so turbo only). Back to Sidi I guess (EU42 set of Kaos now 8 years old are still going strong), unless I find some more premium Specialized Torch or Giro. The cheaper pairs I've used+abused+killed of those commuting didn't last very long (couple of years+winters). I probably need to look for replaceable heels as that's what generally wears out on them. Cleat covers work well for the school pickup, but puts more pressure on heels walking home!
What other brands should I be looking for - generally size up a little wide (or have a wide fit), with lots of colour & fastening options, that don't cost £200+ for a standard shoe!
but yeah, I'm not paying boardman again, their finish is not good in my opinion, crap paint and assembly with discs coming loose, caliper coming loose etc.. from factory.
Oh yeah forgot you'd had build/loose fitting issues. Was that buying direct from them boxed or built somewhere else?
No, separate free bodies which is an annoyance i've found in the past!
Yeah although SRAM and Shimano freehubs not interchangeable - so cassettes are different - the chains actually are providing you match number of gears. I'm running 11s SRAM chains on Shimano cassettes & chainrings. Just make sure you know if XDR or XD - as they are different...
So technically you could ride a 'SRAM wheel+casssette' on a Shimano front chainring+chain with no issue like you're thinking. Just be aware of the 'frame spacing' for the hub which should both be 142mm (if it's not you might be able to solve with hub endcaps) in most cases and the chainline then being a bit off if mixing/matching which you can get around with indexing.
12s is fine too. Basically shifting might 'not be as smooth' as running all of the same brand. But providing you match the speeds should be ok 'technically' with some fiddling/indexing and possibly increased wear on things.
@Vandle You were wrong. Turns out riding an ebike is a lot harder after all.
Especially when you convert a bike, change your chainring from 32T to 44T, add a motor and battery adding around 8kg and then get 10 miles away from home and the battery dies on you. So you've got rubbish gearing and extra weight.
Good workout! Plan a hilly long circular ride, where you do all the hills on the way out, expect to run your battery out, then ride home a flatter route without assist!
Can't say I notice a huge difference in efforts between my 8kg and 11.5kg bikes, certainly not on short sharp hills. Better bike flexes less but not convinced the weight really that much quicker uphill (the 76kg motor on top has the same output)
you and me really are the problem here.. it's a road cycling thread for 23 and maybe 25mm tyre owners on a good day!
we come here, with our suspensions, 45mm tires and ebike ideas. PSH. filth.
Suddenly me riding my Gravel bike on the road and saying how much I enjoy 28mm tyres the last 10 years is normal and accepted! My battle is won!
Even some e-road bike talk being allowed! Just be careful of your e-gravel chat
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