Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
- Posts
- 10,148
- Location
- Beds
Super glue is activated by moisture so it's probably helping!
Last edited:
***The Official Guitar Thread***
- Thread starter Nitefly
- Start date
Just bought 'phase 2' bits, so made a trip to the local music bits/timber supplier:
* Tuners = decided rather than the £143 for Schaller m6 minis (18:1), I'd have a look at the Gotoh equivalent SG381 minis (16:1) for a total of £40 for 7 in chome. I figured that I could cope with any weight difference for that price difference.
* Two 4x4x1000mm carbon fibre structs to add some support for the body spar and the neck
* An extra piece of lining - I'd really need some additional thickness so this will add another bend layer. When I do the perfling (the binding around the edge), I need to route a hole in the side, so if the lining is too thin then the side of the guitar fall off
* Truss rod - self explanatory. The neck will also have a section of the carbon fibre in there. This is smaller than the solid body as the neck joins at fret 14.
I'd originally budgeted for the little version of my schaller M6 135 locking tuners on my solid body guitar, the M6 mini that's not a locking tuner. However looking at the tuners in person, plus being ok with chrome for this build rather than black, I decided they're decent enough and the saving means I now have the dual piezo 'pearl' pickup for under the bridge and still came in under budget. I think he under charged me, or discounted a little, I now still have more budget for later according to my spreadsheet.
* Tuners = decided rather than the £143 for Schaller m6 minis (18:1), I'd have a look at the Gotoh equivalent SG381 minis (16:1) for a total of £40 for 7 in chome. I figured that I could cope with any weight difference for that price difference.
* Two 4x4x1000mm carbon fibre structs to add some support for the body spar and the neck
* An extra piece of lining - I'd really need some additional thickness so this will add another bend layer. When I do the perfling (the binding around the edge), I need to route a hole in the side, so if the lining is too thin then the side of the guitar fall off
* Truss rod - self explanatory. The neck will also have a section of the carbon fibre in there. This is smaller than the solid body as the neck joins at fret 14.
I'd originally budgeted for the little version of my schaller M6 135 locking tuners on my solid body guitar, the M6 mini that's not a locking tuner. However looking at the tuners in person, plus being ok with chrome for this build rather than black, I decided they're decent enough and the saving means I now have the dual piezo 'pearl' pickup for under the bridge and still came in under budget. I think he under charged me, or discounted a little, I now still have more budget for later according to my spreadsheet.
I was reading the tealeaves (literally)..
This has the outline of the acoustic underneath then the panel acts like a think flat top.. the idea is to look at the Chaldini lines, which show up where the guitar doesn't vibrate, which in turn shows up the shapes of the frequency modes.
Mine may only be G12M-65 and 2W.. it's designed to be changed but max out at 100dB 
(and I run a 90% attenuator circuit on it normally!)
This has the outline of the acoustic underneath then the panel acts like a think flat top.. the idea is to look at the Chaldini lines, which show up where the guitar doesn't vibrate, which in turn shows up the shapes of the frequency modes.
Tasty. 12" Celestion G12M-65 16R in that combo with EL84s giving 20W.. Not surprised it almost blew your face offWoop Pink Taco arrived. I think I might need an attenuator or something. I think I have the master on 0.5 and it is blowing my face off. haha.
Mine may only be G12M-65 and 2W.. it's designed to be changed but max out at 100dB (and I run a 90% attenuator circuit on it normally!)
Last edited:
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 29 Mar 2003
- Posts
- 58,018
- Location
- Blurton
A well known DADGAD is Kashmir
You guys ever have problems like this. So if I have my volume up on the guitar I get a whistle like feedback, akin to lots of gain. But if I touch the volume know with my finger, not even hard, it goes away. Feels like a weird earthing issue? Obviously when I play you can't hear it but when you stop it is there. I also don't feel like the volume knob works particularly well (as in the volume doesn't build as it turns it seems to come in all at the bottom then very little difference when you go louder). I've had this since getting the guitar and sent it back to the shop who apparently gave it a clean and checked the solder joints but couldn't find an issue. Maybes I just need a noise gate. lol.
Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
- Posts
- 10,148
- Location
- Beds
Just to check it's not a left handed guitar? The all-at-once volume control could be a normal right handed audio taper pot, wired left handed.
Spent the afternoon doing some woodworking - manually sawing the hardwood laminate block that will become the neck and internal spar of the guitar, also planed the blocks. Only 60cm of cut but it took an hour of solid manual sawing and keeping within 1mm of a line on both sides.. I'm going to really feel it tomorrow!
If it's a a Friedman and you're going to get quite a bit of gain. A couple of things:
* microphonic tubes can start feeding back on sounds
* earthing - at the guitar side (you're using a 3 pin guitar cable)
* earthing - any pedals with a power supply can make a current loop, especially fuzz pedals (on battery mine is quiet, on isolated power it has noise)
* can be a dodgy pot/switch in need of a clean / deoxidisation.
* the pickup isn't grounded properly (in the guitar electronics)
* the guitar controls aren't grounded properly.
* guitar cable(s) or patch cables for pedals are crap
* tube amp noise.. they are noisier than solid-state (although tubes don't have to be but that takes a lot of work and expense)
* you're Raiden from Mortal Combat.
If it worked in the shop but not at yours.. it's likely to be from the guitar cable to the amp.. including the amp earthing.
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply. Yes, sorry, I should have said this happened with my old amplifier as well as the new one. Seems to be guitar end if that makes sense. No pedals were in the loop this time around, just direct into the amp. Is the deoxidisation our grounding easy enough to DIY from home? The guitar cables is interesting as they are the tweed fender ones. I could try replacing as I need to order some new patch leads for my T-Rex Creamer Reverb pedal. So could throw in some new ones.
* you're Raiden from Mortal Combat.
PMSL.
It could be that the tech thought "it came in noisy, so no problem if it's noisy". It's one of those things that it's difficult to talk someone through. I've done that with someone that had a problem with his JCM DIY build.. turned out to be the guitar leads, so worth trying.
Last edited:
OK got some new leads on order so will try those first.
Soldato
- Joined
- 28 Dec 2017
- Posts
- 10,148
- Location
- Beds
Good move. It is VERY often the cables! So much so that I had a whole spiel when I worked at the repair counter for trying a customer's guitar kit with my known good leads.
So I have some next steps todo..
1. Combine the two sides to give a final outline..
2. Use the outline to make the two chassis for holding the sides during all the carving
3. Glue and then cut the side plates.
I've wanted to check the wedges that make up the plates. Only when you plane the woods do you see the true condition of the woods. Both sets of wood look good with the back there is an occlusion but that's not as important as the front plate that takes the load and makes the majority of the sound. I took the liberty of gluing the back wedges together to make one large starting piece as a test run - they're so big that they don't fit the majority of my clamps!
1. Combine the two sides to give a final outline..
2. Use the outline to make the two chassis for holding the sides during all the carving
3. Glue and then cut the side plates.
I've wanted to check the wedges that make up the plates. Only when you plane the woods do you see the true condition of the woods. Both sets of wood look good with the back there is an occlusion but that's not as important as the front plate that takes the load and makes the majority of the sound. I took the liberty of gluing the back wedges together to make one large starting piece as a test run - they're so big that they don't fit the majority of my clamps!
Bah! New cables didn't help my interference noise still there. Pulling the coil tap helps a little but still, if I place my finger on the volume control it disappears. I'll keep the cables though, they're nice. I got the orange crush ones.
My next thinking:
* guitar connector
* dry/broken solder joint
* pot is out of spec/dirty (ie the wiper inside is lifting or partially making contact.
* guitar earthing scheme is bad/needs a check
Update on the guitar - I glued the back wedges together yesterday, then planed the back cleaner, and marked out the outline of the guitar sides onto it. There's a little adjustment I think but the bent sides are almost there. Once happy with the outline I can continue. It's now you really start seeing the size of the guitar. as you see the back wedge and the sides sitting together.
Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Jan 2010
- Posts
- 4,080
As Raiden has been mentioned, I thought I'd post this:
Interestingly, I emailed Schecter last night about this with a video and they have said that:
"...That is normal. Since you are not touching the grounded components, the ground is lifted causing buzz. When you touch it, your body acts as a ground which is how these are supposed to function."
<insert shrug emoji here>
I guess all is well. I might just buy a noise gate to help.