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I give up on this XG. Tried to install in the loft and it just won't adopt, unless it meshes with one of the other APs. Internet suggests it's quite picky about cable runs but my tester is showing the run as good. I've tried but it just doesn't want to play ball in my network.

Edit - on second thought. Could it be the pinout of the RJ45? I used some random Cat7 cable for the XG when it was by the stairs but the attic run is 6E which the electrician installed when we bought the house. And then there is the patch panel and cable - probably reaching but worth checking out.

Could be!

Reterminate both ends to the same standard (B club here), and see if that helps things.

I know a sparky who lives by the method “as long as it’s the same at both ends it doesn’t matter!” :eek:
 
The house Cat is good quality, think I got it on advice from this subforum. I've been terminating type-B but need to double check the cables in and around the patch panels. As I said the XG powered fine with that random cable* but it was very close to the switch.

Fortunately I have at least 4 redundant runs from the attic to the switch so there's hope.....

*Just checked my Amazon order, it was a Rhino Cables 6a.
 
Could be!

Reterminate both ends to the same standard (B club here), and see if that helps things.

I know a sparky who lives by the method “as long as it’s the same at both ends it doesn’t matter!” :eek:
Three of the four runs do the same thing (couldn't be bothered to reach to terminate the last). My suspicion is now around the patch panel, injector or switch.

Edit - such a numpty. I swore it was 6a, checked my Cable Monkey order. It's 6 but my run to the HTPC uses the same cable and runs at 10Gbps.

:(
 
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CAT6 is fine for 10gbps for up to 55m on the official spec. It will probably do more and 55m is a very long run for a house.

There are also other advantages to 6 and that’s you don’t have to deal with 6a which is stiffer and more of a pain to terminate.
 
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CAT6 is fine for 10gbps for up to 55m on the official spec. It will probably do more and 55m is a very long run for a house.

There are also other advantages to 6 and that’s you don’t have to deal with 6a which is stiffer and more of a pain to terminate.
I have a 10Gb running on a ~60/70M bit of SWA Cat6 (Outbuilding - Shed) and it seems to have no issues between a PRO-XG and a USW-Flex 2.5 8 POE

Where I did have issues was using those SFP+ to RJ45 adaptors as they always seemed to flakey after a while and needed to reboot the switch to get it back up.
 
Am using SFP modules for my aggregation switch.

Edit - a bit dusty under the stairs so given the ports and modules a dash of air. My new plan, I'm going to cycle through all remaining SFP ports, cable runs and modules, one by one (not touching the existing NAS and HTPC ones :p). If that doesn't work, I'll bung the U5 LR in the attic and bring the XG back to by the stairs which should hopefully solve the crowding issue.

Edit.......it's still doing the mesh thing even when I put it back to the OG cabling when running at 10Gbps. And also doing it if I connect directly to the UDM-SE. Noticed it also won't factory reset like I could before (normal speed blinking white/blue), it only does the fast blue/white flash if I try which suggest a firmware update (or it's borked). I'll leave it for a while and see if it's an update.

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I've currently got a USW Lite 8 POE switch. If i want 2.5Gb, is the USW Flex 2.5g the one to go for? I don't need the POE version as I only have the one access point powered from the POE port on the UCG Fiber. Would I use a DAC to connect the 10Gb ports together? Not something I've used before.
 
So received and installed first bit of Ubiquiti kit today, the Cloud Gateway Max.
Boy it was a minor faff to get going but I can see why everyone raves about the software, more settings than I understand.

Is there any sort of 'recommended' settings guide out there?
 
Having just signed up for an ISP change it got me thinking. It would be a nice feature of you could input your new credentials into the router and when it's current connection goes down it automatically tries the new one.
As it is I'll have the wife annoyed if it goes down while I'm at work, it'll have to wait until I get home to sort out.
 
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Having just signed up for an ISP change it got me thinking. It would be a nice feature of you could input your new credentials into the router and when it's current connection goes down it automatically tries the new one.
As it is I'll have the wife annoyed if it goes down while I'm at work, it'll have to wait until I get home to sort out.


There is a hardware transfer feature but you need to know the SN/MAC address. Looks like you can't do it on routers

"Set Replacement Device"
 
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Need some advice and recommendations please

I’m looking to move over to the Ubiquiti ecosystem and want to upgrade my current WiFi setup so it’s fully future proof, with the intention of adding their camera and doorbell system later on.

At the moment I’ve got a very cluttered central cupboard that houses my Asus RT AX88U router, which has served me well. I haven’t connected all of the Ethernet ports around the house to it yet, but that’s something I’d like to sort as part of the upgrade. The space should fit a rack up to 560 mm wide.

WiFi coverage in my garage and the master bedroom above was pretty poor, so I added a Ubiquiti Unifi 6 Pro. I think it helps, but my phone doesn’t seem to roam to it properly, so I’m not sure if it’s working well as a mesh extender like I hoped. I’ve also got a Ubiquiti U7 Outdoor at the end of the garden which works fine, plus a few Flex Mini switches dotted around the house.

I’d really appreciate any advice on the best way to move fully into the Ubiquiti setup, what hardware I should be looking at, and how best to tidy everything up into a proper rack.
I was thinking about maybe getting the Dream Router 7 but would need another switch for the additional ports. However the Dream Machine Pro being rack mountable will likely be a much tidier setup with the Pro 24 PoE switch. But would then still need a central wifi spot so maybe the U7 Pro or Pro XG on the ceiling of the cupboard?
 
I was thinking about maybe getting the Dream Router 7 but would need another switch for the additional ports. However the Dream Machine Pro being rack mountable will likely be a much tidier setup with the Pro 24 PoE switch. But would then still need a central wifi spot so maybe the U7 Pro or Pro XG on the ceiling of the cupboard?

Sorry mate realised I never replied to you.

It’s late and I have many questions, but you can’t go wrong with a UDM-Pro. and a 24-PoE.

Don’t put an AP in a cupboard if you can help it, in a dream world you want one in each room with the power cranked down so that the coverage cells overlap.

If you don’t have many PoE devices take a look at the UDM-Pro-SE, basically a UDM-Pro with PoE built in.

Reality is avoid meshing APs at all costs, if you really need solid WiFi at the end of the garden, look into the UniFi Device Bridge at both ends, and connect an AP to that.

As far as AP’s go, the U7-Pro is really all you’d need for a home set up. Gets you 6Ghz, has a 2.5Gbps uplink, but unless you get a switch that supports it, even that’s pretty pointless.

Also as mentioned before, if you need reliable and fast speeds and data transmission, then run a cable, WiFi is a convenience technology not a performance one (so far…)

If you want to jump in the UniFi design planner and map out your floor plan. This can help visualise just how poor 5/6Ghz is for penetrating walls, and why you want to turn 2.4Ghz off (mostly), and try your hardest to have smaller, room isolated cells.

Any questions ask away! :D
 
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Sorry mate realised I never replied to you.

It’s late and I have many questions, but you can’t go wrong with a UDM-Pro. and a 24-PoE.

Don’t put an AP in a cupboard if you can help it, in a dream world you want one in each room with the power cranked down so that the coverage cells overlap.

If you don’t have many PoE devices take a look at the UDM-Pro-SE, basically a UDM-Pro with PoE built in.

Reality is avoid meshing APs at all costs, if you really need solid WiFi at the end of the garden, look into the UniFi Device Bridge at both ends, and connect an AP to that.

As far as AP’s go, the U7-Pro is really all you’d need for a home set up. Gets you 6Ghz, has a 2.5Gbps uplink, but unless you get a switch that supports it, even that’s pretty pointless.

Also as mentioned before, if you need reliable and fast speeds and data transmission, then run a cable, WiFi is a convenience technology not a performance one (so far…)

If you want to jump in the UniFi design planner and map out your floor plan. This can help visualise just how poor 5/6Ghz is for penetrating walls, and why you want to turn 2.4Ghz off (mostly), and try your hardest to have smaller, room isolated cells.

Any questions ask away! :D

Thank you so much for putting all that together! Took a while to take it all in and think about. Just been on the UniFi Design Planner and it seems to think a single central U7-Pro is enoguh for full coverage as luckily the internet cupboard is central in the house. I suspect another U7-Pro would be good to place upstairs.
 
Thank you so much for putting all that together! Took a while to take it all in and think about. Just been on the UniFi Design Planner and it seems to think a single central U7-Pro is enoguh for full coverage as luckily the internet cupboard is central in the house. I suspect another U7-Pro would be good to place upstairs.

One thing to bear in mind with the design planner is that it assumes that you’re going to have the APs on maximum Tx power.

To be fair I’m coming at this from a high density deployment frame of mind because that’s what causes the most issues, in a house one up and one down on high Tx power might just be ok, but depending on the make up of your walls and the size of your gaff you’ll probably not get 6Ghz rates outside of the room of the AP.

Also have you changed the radio on the bottom right little “red-amber-green” scale? By default it’s set to 2.4Ghz, also on this scale you can click the actual dots and tweak the “power levels” for lack of a better word.

I’d put the green dot to -59dBm and the second dot at -70dBm.
 
Is there any sort of 'recommended' settings guide out there?
Disable automatic updates, and for wifi disable wireless meshing, and nightly channel optimisation. Apart from that there really isn't a one size fits all configuration, just have a play, do some reading, watch some YT videos etc. With time consider setting up an IoT network perhaps.
 
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Disable automatic updates, and for wifi disable wireless meshing, and nightly channel optimisation. Apart from that there really isn't a one size fits all configuration, just have a play, do some reading, watch some YT videos etc. With time consider setting up an IoT network perhaps.


Turning off automatic updates on the official channel would not be required since it has gone through many beta versions and then RC release. The other two points are fair.

Another recommendation, don't run the beta firmware if you require things to be stable!
 
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