Guide: Fitting a radiator to a case roof panel

DaveMac · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:04

One of the most daunting parts of installing watercooling is fitting the radiator to the case. There are a few other options available such as an external rad-box or mounting adaptors that hang the rad off the back of the case but I prefer an fully internal option.

This guide shows how I fitted a ThermoChill HE120.3 radiator into the roof panel of a Lian-Li PC-75 case with an Aqua Computer grill. I bought the case with the intention of fitting a triple rad for maximum performance at very low noise levels. This guide can easily be used for fitting smaller rads to smaller cases, I'd recommend checking internal clearances to PSUs etc thoroughly.

First removal of the roof panel. This isn't essential but it does make working on the panel much easier. The top is fixed on with two rivets at the front of the case and two at the rear and can be removed by drilling them out with a 2.5mm HSS bit. These can be replaced later with new rivets or self-tapping screws.

The grill is an Aqua Computer Airplex evo 360, high quality 2mm thick stainless steel with a finish that goes well with the anodised silver aluminium case.

The radiator is a ThermoChill HE120.3 rev 2, shown with the fan mounts removed and the additional performance shroud PS 120.3

Cover the whole surface in masking tape to protect it from any scrapes or scuffs to the finished surface.

Mark centre lines on both the roof panel and the ends of the grill.
Position the grill and align the centre marks to ensure it is central. I kept the rear edge approx 40mm from the rear to allow a rear case fan to be fitted if required and keep the front as free as possible to allow fan controllers or similar to still use the top drive bays as the reduced size won't take an optical drive.

DaveMac · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:05

Draw round the grill shape with a pencil ensuring all the holes are marked.

Mark up the internal cut out area in fine tipped felt pen to make it more visible (CD-R pens are ideal). Mark any holes for drilling with crosses through the centres.

Centre punch the drill holes to prevent the drill slipping and scoring the surface.
An automatic punch is ideal, if not use a hammer and punch or nail or screw but place some timber inside underneath to prevent the panel buckling.
Drill a pilot hole with a 1 or 2mm HSS bit first as this is easier to control, then drill through with a 4mm HSS bit.
I was not using the outside corner holes so these were left.

Chopping time! I used a dremel as I had the inset screw mounts to go around. A jigsaw is better on straight cuts but needs a hole large enough to fit the blade into at each starting point/corner and this would have taken longer.

Initial cutting completed. I used a technique called stich drilling to remove some of the area around the screw mounts, this is a series of holes drilled that just overlap each other and form a cut line.

DaveMac · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:06

This is where a dremel is really useful. This took about fifteen minutes from the rough cut stage above to get to this.
It is possible to do the same with a series of shapes and sizes of metal files but it will take much longer.
Remove all burring from the edges by drawing a file over the cuts.

Now for a test fit of the grill, checking to make sure all the bolts holes line up exactly and the cut edges are not visible through the top.

As they use different hole centres and I wanted to keep the stainless mounting machine screws, I needed to make some adaptor rail to mount the
Thermochill radiator to an Aquacomputer grill. Simple two pieces of aluminium angle, one side drilled to match the rad side mounting holes and the other side to match the grill.

Test fitting of the rails fitted onto the grill.

Oblique view showing the rad mounting holes.

DaveMac · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:06

View from the top, the pieces of angle now visible need removing and are marked up in a similar way as before.

Angle rails trimmed down to size, again using a dremel.

Trimmed rails re-fitted onto the grill.

Oblique view showing fittings. The rad has an in-built shroud that keep the surface 10mm inset from the rad body, these fittings sit inside.

View from top, all clear again now.

DaveMac · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:07

Now it's time to assemble all the components: shroud, neoprene gasket, barbs, PTFE tape, fans and mounting screws, radiator and case top with grill and rails fitted.

Rad is attached to the rails using a right angled screw driver as the lip on the case top restricts access for a normal driver.

Rad installed, and barbs attached using 3 turns of PTFE tape and a quarter turn with a spanner past hand tight.

The self adhesive neoprene gasket is stuck onto the shroud then the fans mounted with self tapping screws.

The shroud assembly is then mounted onto the rad and attached to the sides with self tapping screws.
Note that the bleed valve is still easily accessible when installed in the case by removing the PSU mounting plate.

DaveMac · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:08

Finished item fully assembled.

Installed and in use.

I hope this proves useful to anyone who is apprehensive about installing a radiator.

Since doing this ThermoChill have released their own chrome rad grill that will mounts directly to their rads.
So the stages I had with the additional mounting rails will not be required if you use them instead.

This was my first time installing into a roof panel and as long as you take your time and plan it properly in advance it really is simple.
Remember the old tradesman adage 'Measure twice, cut once'.

And on a final note, please don't skimp on safety gear, goggles/safety glasses are only a couple of quid and are a must for any metal cutting - you only get one pair of eyes so look after them.

Messiah Khan · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:15

Excellent guide DaveMac, and a very nice finished result. One for the sticky me thinks.

Biohazard · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:19

nice one mate, I'm just getting the last bits of my watercooling together. Nice guide on how to mount the RAD, only got a single 80mm though

still something fun though!

Andy298 · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:34

Great job that, Dave! You're right about the grill, looks as if it should actually be a part of the PC-75.

Mark A · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:43

Very nice job, Ive not ventured into water cooling yet but when i do I'm sure I'll find this guide helpful.

Borden · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:46

Nice guide, i'm feeling really tempted to go water cooling right now

maddness · 26 Aug 2006 at 16:56

top guide, what blade do you use for the dremel?

jigsaw blade / diamond?

DaveMac · 26 Aug 2006 at 20:58

Cheer guys.

For the dremel work I used the HD reinforced cutting disks for the cut out and the small drum sander for tidying up.

orderoftheflame · 26 Aug 2006 at 21:15

Good Guide

Sultan of Ping · 26 Aug 2006 at 23:59

Great guide, and a fantastic, clean result too. May I ask how long it took you to make the main cuts on the panel with your Dremel?

I ask this because I have done a similar mod on my Coolermaster stacker, but with AquaComputer 1x160 (2x80mm) and 1x120 rads/grills. But I used a cheapo Focus dremel-copy and it took me almost 4 hours and loads of cutting discs, no word of a lie!! Are original Dremels worth the extra outlay?

Messiah Khan · 27 Aug 2006 at 00:22

Use the thicker cutting disks. I tried cutting something with a thinner one, and it broke very quickly. A thicker one however has kept me going through most of my Android mod.

gr1mey · 27 Aug 2006 at 01:05

great guide, and, a very nice finish to the mod 10/10.

kinggost · 27 Aug 2006 at 09:32

Does that he120.3 grill work for a pa120.3 as wel

gr1mey · 27 Aug 2006 at 09:41

the grill isnt attached directly tothe rad, by using the piece of angle aluminium he has as an adapter, any rad could be made to fit to the AC grill.

afaik though the HE and PA rads both use the same holelayout (well all the ones Ive seen have).

DELETED_36704 · 27 Aug 2006 at 10:46

Awesome guide, will be using this when i venture into custom wc this autumn. Thanks DaveMac