H2OC Trident - 60'c+ Playing games - Can I Improve the W/C?

Soldato
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Hiya All, I bought OC's Watercooled H2OC Trident a few months ago and I'm not happy at the 60-70'c CPU temps when playing games (idles about 46-50'c) like COD4 & FIFA09 etc. I've been building PC's for mates/family etc since '97 (none O/C'd much) and I'm not used to seeing the Temps I'm currently seeing (anything above 45'c makes me nervous!). Are these temps average for an OC'd setup (2.66 to 3.5Ghz) with Watercooling?

I'd like to get the Temps down to under 45'c under load (around 30'c idle) without reducing the OC any so I'm looking at improving the W/C side (double bay reservoir? External kit? Refrideration? etc). Any help would be much appreciated!

PROBLEM SOLVED - RAD WAS FULL OF AIR - SEE POSTS AT THE BOTTOM OF PAGE ONE!

H2OC Trident's Specs

Ta!.............................................IAnH
 
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Cheers for the quick reply! I've never done an OC that high before so the temps had me a little worried!
 
what sort of rad has the kit got?

those temps aren't great for watercooling unless its got a single rad or loads of components in the loop.
 
cpu only with a half decent block in its own rad and those temps are rubbish.

Could have saved yourself a fortune and had a freezer 7 and got better tbh.
 
This is my 1st bash with W/C, I thought seen as I was going to replace my PC anyway (upgrade/futureproofing time from XP6000+, 1GB hd2900 etc) I'd get a pre-built system and OC is just around the corner from me and it'd avoid the stress of self-building one.

However I'm now looking at the kit thats fitted and I'm getting all "lets fiddle with it!" (more like "lets rip it apart and start again!") and I'm thinking about a dual bay res (more fluid), 120.3 rad (more cooling) and new pipework to reach the rad but I've got some questions

1. How do you mount a 120.3 externally (power to fans and rack etc?)
2. Is it better to get the 3 fans sucking or blowing across the rad?

Sorry about all the questions!
 
However I'm now looking at the kit thats fitted and I'm getting all "lets fiddle with it!" (more like "lets rip it apart and start again!") and I'm thinking about a dual bay res (more fluid), 120.3 rad (more cooling) and new pipework to reach the rad but I've got some questions

Please bear in mind in doing this you will be invalidating your warranty with OcUK.
 
LOL - I'd completely forgotten the warrenty! I guess that as I'm used to self build I just want to get fiddling :D

Cheers for everyones help.
 
Bios has it at 1.44v, Everest has it at 1.125v on the OC page and 1.45v on the sensor page!

Haven't got clue which is right!
 
Those temps are appalling for water cooling. When OCUK launched that watercooling kit i said that it would'nt handle a clocked quad but of course i was told i was talking rubbish. You could have had high end air for a fraction of the price and probably better temps.
 
lol

ocuk have spoken!!

mid 40s idle and high 60s load is terrible for watercooling, period.

And this chap has paid a premium for that privilege.

What vcore is it running?

Well, to be honest my X3350 runs pretty hot. I have it at 3.6ghz and it idles in the low forties and loads in the mid seventies. That's with a 120.2 Swiftech radiator and D-Tek Fuzion, plus the CPU is lapped.
 
One easy thing to try would be a second fan on the radiator. Next, I'd be looking to try a bigger 120mm radiator like a Black Ice extreme or Feser 120mm or a Thermochill PA120.1. Then you can add a second 120mm radiator in series and after that then you'll almost certainly have to go outside the case.

The temperatures do sound awfully high for that CPU though - are you sure the system is completely free from air?

One last thing you might want to think about is that I believe OcUK use Feser 1 in their systems and it's actually not that great at heat transfer. A swap to distilled water might show a good improvement too.
 
Did you buy this in the Antec 900 Case? If so you might want to turn the rear fan to "H" on the fan controller connected to the fan. It will be louder mind.
 
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