I7 2600k Hydro H60 Loose Rear Plate

fishleg · 30 Jun 2011 at 23:59

Just a heads up if you own or buy one of these the washers supplied are not big enough to fill the space between the rear plate and the board so the rear plate has give which obviously means your cooler wobbles like jelly, yay!.

I just finished building my new pc obviously picked Corsair as thought would be the most well made... There is plastic spacers on the back but they are not big enough so the rear plate is not flush with the board. I purchased a couple of steel washers and put on top of each of the current plastic ones to fill the gap.

Went from 70c load thinking wtf is going on to 51c full load so was worth the head ache just cant believe it what a shoddy job.

Anyone else had any bother ?

Lunawolfy · 1 Jul 2011 at 08:56

I've had absolutely no bother with the H60 washers, I don't quite follow where you stuck them however the manual clearly shows they only exist so they can skimp on screw head size

The washers don't go between the back plate and the rad, they're there to stop the screw falling through.

What type of case was it? perhaps the case had too big a hole pre-drilled?

TheYoungster · 1 Jul 2011 at 09:38

Don't you have to use the 1156 mounting bracket whatsnamethingmebob to mount on an 1155 mobo?

fishleg · 1 Jul 2011 at 18:53

Hard to explain but from the back..

Back plate
Threaded screw holes with nut on the end
Then a black plastic washer
Motherboard

From the front you got..

4 Black double threaded screws that screw into the threaded holes that you push through from the back
The heat sync
4 thumb screws

I think my board must be slightly thinner then the norm as in theory once you've done the back bit and tightened the four screw heads that the heat sync sits on the four screws that stick up should be solid no give at all.

The four screws wiggle because the threads you push through go further in than they are supposed to so instead of being flush at the front of the board they stick out which means the back plate can move backwards.

Anyway I'm not taking it to bits again

..... Hope it helps someone.

My board btw Asus P8Z68-V.

bedazzled · 12 Jul 2011 at 12:34

I've got exactly same loose backplate problem with the same type of board, I'm just hoping that then the pump block is fitted it will pull down tight onto the cpu.

BillTheButcher · 12 Jul 2011 at 13:11

Interesting. I've got the Asus P8Z68-V Pro board and I bought an H60 last week. I haven't fitted it yet but I'll see if I have the same problem.

kallisto316 · 12 Jul 2011 at 13:30

I fitted the same cooler to an Asus P67 Sabertooth it was all wobbly until the block was introduced and tightened down, then it's all good. Idle temps about 28 OC'd at 4.5 i5 stock volts.

Don't worry..

BillTheButcher · 12 Jul 2011 at 13:46

Just done a quick bit of forum trawling and it sounds like the H60 has been fitted to this board loads of times without any issues.

fishleg - maybe something hasn't been tightened quite enough? Not trying to insult you, just interested to find out why you're having this problem.

BillTheButcher · 12 Jul 2011 at 14:39

Is this the issue you've got?

From what's said in this thread, the backplate and screws are supposed to be loose until you attach the block and tighten everything up.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=96439

bedazzled · 12 Jul 2011 at 15:32

I fitted the pump block before putting the board back in the case and the block has pulled down solid onto the cpu, the idle temp of my i5 2500k is now 20C and after 15 min prime 95 at 4.2 Gig the temp is at 72C. I've got the fan drawing air out of the case rather than Corsairs recommendation of drawing air in.

BillTheButcher · 12 Jul 2011 at 15:45

My 2600k at 4GHz doesn't go above 80C under load with the stock Intel cooler so I'm hoping for better figures than that when I fit the H60.

I was planning to set it up as Corsair recommend - drawing cool air into the case - but I'll have to wait and see what this does to the airflow for the other components.

BillTheButcher · 12 Jul 2011 at 22:41

Update: I fitted the H60 tonight.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=19570140#post19570140

As above, the backplate and fittings were loose until I tightened the screws around the pump block. As soon as I did that everything locked down solid with no movement at all.

Idle temps are 21-24C, load temps are 48-50C. That's with the fan set to push air into the case, towards the radiator.

bedazzled · 13 Jul 2011 at 13:36

I've now set my fan to blow air into the case and the temps seem way to high. Idle is 38 - 39C at 1600 Mhz, at 3700Mhz it's upto 67C after 10 min of prime 95. Think I should reseat the pump block or replace the thermal compound.

Mockingbird · 13 Jul 2011 at 14:21

It's supposed to be loose without the block/pump.

You fit it loosely (held in place only by sticky pads), then lift the loose retaining ring, introduce and twist the block and screw down to lock in place.

BillTheButcher · 13 Jul 2011 at 16:17

bedazzled said:
I've now set my fan to blow air into the case and the temps seem way to high. Idle is 38 - 39C at 1600 Mhz, at 3700Mhz it's upto 67C after 10 min of prime 95. Think I should reseat the pump block or replace the thermal compound.

That does seem high. Mine still hasn't gone above 50C even under 100% load at 4GHz.

Mockingbird said:
It's supposed to be loose without the block/pump.

You fit it loosely (held in place only by sticky pads), then lift the loose retaining ring, introduce and twist the block and screw down to lock in place.

Are you talking about the H50 or the H60? There are no sticky pads or retaining ring on my H60 and it doesn't twist into place. It's held on by 4 thumbscrews which go through the pump surround into 4 holding screws that are attached to the backplate. Tightening these thumbscrews is what locks the pump block into place.

Yella Fella · 13 Jul 2011 at 21:23

This is good to know as I was thinking of getting similar board and heatsink combo, though might be tempted to go for the H80

bedazzled · 13 Jul 2011 at 21:35

BillTheButcher said:
That does seem high. Mine still hasn't gone above 50C even under 100% load at 4GHz.

I've cleaned the original tim off the cpu and pump block, tinted both of them and applied a fresh pea sized blob of Akasa455 tim. Now on full load at 4.0 Gig the temp rises to 71C, the pump is connected to a 3pin chassis fan header on the mobo and the radiator fan is connected to the cpu header.

Phil3 · 14 Jul 2011 at 20:33

Fitted my H60 to both a P55 board and a Z68 board, as stated by all the people above, the backplate is wobbly until the whole CPU block is screwed in place, then it is nice and tight.
Also, make sure it is the right way round. (the cut out bit at the top)
for note: My Idle temps are ~30c on 2600k stock 3.5GHz, blowing air into the case. When I fitted the H60 I relocated the rear fan from the back and put it in the top, just pushed some of the little rubber washers that came with the case into the holes, and sat the fan on top. no need to secure it. to suck the hot air immediately out of the case after it comes in through the rad.

BillTheButcher · 15 Jul 2011 at 10:06

Phil3 said:
Also, make sure it is the right way round. (the cut out bit at the top)

I didn't even notice the cut-out when I was fitting it. There was no mention of it in the instructions and I don't really see why it's there. :confused:

This is how I fitted mine:

But I found this on HardwareHeaven:

Does it matter where the cut-out is?

Mockingbird · 15 Jul 2011 at 17:27

BillTheButcher said:
Are you talking about the H50 or the H60? There are no sticky pads or retaining ring on my H60 and it doesn't twist into place. It's held on by 4 thumbscrews which go through the pump surround into 4 holding screws that are attached to the backplate. Tightening these thumbscrews is what locks the pump block into place.

Do'h, you're right, I was thinking of the H50 (and the kuhler line-up too).