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24 pin MB Connector Burnt!

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Hi, just had this problem since I have gone Tri SLI, I think its a connection problem with too much power being drawn through the PCI Express?

Got a new PSU, the MB seems to have survived it, althought 2 pins are black, but its running.

Could this happen again?
 
A few more details please, psu make & model.

On Nivida site, they quote a minimum 600W PSU with +12 volt current rating of 42 amps on a single rail for just one GTX480.

Doing some rough maths, I reckon you must be looking at a psu between 1000w - 1200w .
 
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Does the Rampage II have a 4 pin molex near the pci-x slots?

If it does not then thats your problem as the EVGA Classified boards used to do the same thing by the pci-x slots drawing too much power from the 24 pin supply.So replacing your powersupply wont make any difference as it will just happen again.

This is what you can get from EVGA to solve the problem & it will work on other motherboards besides EVGA motherboards.

http://eu.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=100-MB-PB01-BR&family=Accessories - Hardware&uc=EUR

If you look at newer motherboards such as the Maximus Extreme-Z it has a 4 pin molex just above the first pci-x slot to supply more power when running more than one card.

http://www.hardwareluxx.de/images/stories/galleries/reviews/asus-maximus-IV-extreme-z/gesamt2.jpg
 
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Damn, I have an EVGA board that I have just put 2 old 8800GTX in SLI - how can a company advertise that its specifically designes for tri SLi when the board cannot handle it without purchase of an additional cable!!! :mad:
 
Damn, I have an EVGA board that I have just put 2 old 8800GTX in SLI - how can a company advertise that its specifically designes for tri SLi when the board cannot handle it without purchase of an additional cable!!! :mad:

The problem only started to happen when using 2 or more 400 series cards & above, you will be fine with 2 x 8800GTX's.
 
I only use 1 580 yet I still connect a bitfenix molex extension to one of the extra pci power 'ex_plug's on my motherboard.

Just incase. LOL.

Although tbf another 580 may be on the cards.

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If you look at newer motherboards such as the Maximus Extreme-Z it has a 4 pin molex just above the first pci-x slot to supply more power when running more than one card.

It also has a second 'ez_plug' to the left of the case audio header. I think it's another 4 pin molex, but there's a cap on there that's pretty hard to get off and I cba.
 
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what on Earth do people use triple GTX 480 for? or dual GTX 580, in normal usage that is just a waste of graphical power surely?

on a more topical note, no OCZ power supplies aren't bad, in-fact in my experience they tend to be the complete opposite, this one is solid as a rock, nice and shiny and weighs an absolute ton, had OCZ power supply before that was well, was solid as a rock, never gave me a single problem.
 
My pc started as an ocuk prebuild, if I'd have known the ocz psu had such ugly ass cables I would've requested a corsair AX psu. I don't need braided down there, but at least the corsair ax series has all black connectors. The connections to the psu are the ugliest uggo uber ugly part in my system :(.

*slaps self* They drive meh crazy!

Not sure why ocz wouldn't have put any effort into the cables, they've made the actual supply look really good (fan guard in particular), then BLEUURGGHHH.

#offtopicrant

what on Earth do people use triple GTX 480 for? or dual GTX 580, in normal usage that is just a waste of graphical power surely?

A single 580 will not net me near 120 fps on the max detail settings of demanding games like bf3 @ 1080p
 
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Same happened to me with my two gtx470 in SLI, watercooled and severely overclocked.

In my case, it took the mb and psu out and the wires melted on the psu. :(
 
what on Earth do people use triple GTX 480 for? or dual GTX 580, in normal usage that is just a waste of graphical power surely?

on a more topical note, no OCZ power supplies aren't bad, in-fact in my experience they tend to be the complete opposite, this one is solid as a rock, nice and shiny and weighs an absolute ton, had OCZ power supply before that was well, was solid as a rock, never gave me a single problem.

OCZ's products are hit and miss. It all depends where they source them from. IE - they don't make many of their power supplies, and the ones they don't make generally turn out to be better.

Take their Fatal1ty power supplies for example. The 750w modular isn't made by them, and thus remains stable right up to 980w before it goes pop. The 700w one though is made by a completely different manufacturer and thus it's pretty terrible.

Their SSDs have issues on certain boards and their ram? the most incompatible I've ever used. Never had any problems with any DDR ram (inc 2&3) but theirs I have.

Mind you, my mate has just had a year long nightmare out of a Corsair HX850. Turned out to be a piece of garbage.

He built his system in December 2010 and it consisted of a 950 not overclocked with a MSI big bang X power and a 460 2win. Nothing but constant shutdowns and resets. So we tested the PSU, was apparently fine. So I had him take out the CPU and he had a bent pin. Nothing untoward but he RMA the board. He sold the BBXP and bought a Gigabyte Guerilla as he really liked it. Same issues.

In the end the only thing he hadn't replaced were the CPU and ram and as soon as he replaced the PSU problems be gone.

It was highlighted more by the 480 SLI that he switched to, but either way the PSU should have been more than man enough to run 460 SLI.

He's RMA it now.
 
I was running Tri SLI 480s at stock, so it could have been one of the connections that was loose and caused resistance, which made a build up of heat and melted the 24pin yellow wires.

Amp draw.

Note - draw.

When power is drawn through electrical wire the wires and pins need to be up to it. If you look carefully at your wires (if they're not braided or covered) then you will usually see an AWG rating and a amp rating.

If you draw too much current through a piece of wire or a connector then it will start to heat up.

Basically that's how a light bulb works. You draw loads of current and amps through it and as the electricity tries to move in atom form through the wire it starts to push from behind trying to get through. This causes a "traffic jam" of sorts which causes the wire to get very hot, and then glow creating light.

When you are drawing that sort of current through a wire so small (you should see the cables I had to use in my car for my four amplifier set up, looked like hose pipe !) you run the risk of a brownout.
 
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