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3900X at 85 degrees in Bios

You're not pumping 1.21 jigawatts through it by accident, are you? Has the BIOS gone done a silly and set some ridiculously high base voltage or something?
 
I'm confused how it would manage to install Windows and then cut out booting into Windows. Wouldn't it get just as hot installing Windows as booting it?
 
Brizzles said:
the cooler is a tight as you can get on both wraith and aio, after removing both had good even contact bar one small corner
Click to expand...

Have you reset the bios? Seems like you have done all you can do. Could be that it's actually faulty. No other CPUs that you can test or a know someone with a rig you can test the CPU in?
 
Tetras said:
I'm confused how it would manage to install Windows and then cut out booting into Windows. Wouldn't it get just as hot installing Windows as booting it?
Click to expand...
Yep, that's the puzzle , goes through install process then powers down after 30seconds on both a clean SSD and nvme instal l
 
It makes me wonder if this reading is just a red herring and it's actually not powering down because of thermals, unless the BIOS gives you some message about it when you power up again.
 
Tetras said:
It makes me wonder if this reading is just a red herring and it's actually not powering down because of thermals, unless the BIOS gives you some message about it when you power up again.
Click to expand...
Nothing in bios to indicate a thermal warning was triggered

Have used 2 PSUs as well in my testing
 
Just incase it is a red herring, are you running the memory at stock? I'd consider setting it to 2400, 2666 or something.
 
Not surprised it manages to
Install windows before shutting down
Would think installing windows
Would be more hard drive
Intensive
Than it is cpu intensive
Especially with a cpu as good as
A 3900x is
Once it hits the desktop the cpu will
Ramp up a bit finalising stuff
So get hotter
 
Thanks all for the suggestions and semi confirm ing that I was not going mad.

I can normally troubleshoot most things, but this one is a pita.

Have a new cpU coming thurs which will hopefully cure it
 
Brizzles said:
H4i3evMXt14LJDsy9


No the film is not on
Tried both Corsair and wraith, best I got was high 70s at bios
Reseated both twice
Currently all set up on a box after removing from case
1stick of ram

Gets to Windows after clean new install to nvme, then the systems just hard powers down, no blue screen
Click to expand...

First, remove your nvme drive. It's silly to boot into Windows with such a serious overheating issue. You're temperatuere is over double what it should be and needs to be sorted.

How much thermal paste are you using? Are you definitely attaching your cooler properly so it sits perfectly flat and level? I find it's best to screw opposite corners half a turn, then the other two opposite corners half a turn, and so on, until all four screws are fully home. So the heat sink has an even pressure on the CPU.

If the CPU is reaching over 70°, you should be able to feel the heat by touching the underside of the motherboard where the CPU is located. Then feel the cooler. If the CPU is hot but the cooler is cold, then the issue is caused by a lack of heat transfer between the CPU and cooler. However, if both the CPU and cooler are hot, then the issue is with your cooling solution. Lastly, if the CPU actually feels cool, then there's a sensor issue.
 
Last edited:
CuriousTomCat said:
First, remove your nvme drive. It's silly to boot into Windows with such a serious overheating issue. You're temperatuere is over double what it should be and needs to be sorted.

How much thermal paste are you using? Are you definitely attaching your cooler properly so it sits perfectly flat and level? I find it's best to screw opposite corners half a turn, then the other two opposite corners half a turn, and so on, until all four screws are fully home. So the heat sink has an even pressure on the CPU.

If the CPU is reaching over 70°, you should be able to feel the heat by touching the underside of the motherboard where the CPU is located. Then feel the cooler. If the CPU is hot but the cooler is cold, then the issue is caused by a lack of heat transfer between the CPU and cooler. However, if both the CPU and cooler are hot, then the issue is with your cooling solution. Lastly, if the CPU actually feels cool, then there's a sensor issue.
Click to expand...
 
Faulty cpu would be my last
In the list
Faulty mounting etc would be top
Followed by motherboard
If op was near me would have let
Them test it in my pc
Hopefully your replacement works
Though like I said cpu
Wouldn't be my first suspect

Guess you can update us Thursday
 
Sorry for double quote, on my phone now.

Yes, very good advise and thx again.

I will add that I,m not new to pc building and have been doing it and water-cooling,for many many years.

I,ve hit this build with 2 coolers,2 different PSUs, numours clean boots on SSD and nvme with the same outcome _ 30 seconds in Windows and then total power down.

Surface contact on all mounts has been ok, within the degree of not being anything that would cause concern.

I,ve seen bad mounts and over apply and am happy that I have that covered ( no pun).

Thx again
 
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