40D upgrade...

Sounds like decided anyway, so struggling to see what the questions is..... Would still like to see some of these out of focus pictures, assuming the camera isn't broken I not convinced it not a technique issue.... Which will be present in any new camera.....
Going full frame could mean you need bigger/longer lenses for wildlife as you will loose the increase gained with crops sensors..... Something to factor into your budget.....

I wasn't decided, but having looked around at various (perhaps too many) reviews, maybe I am now.

re the autofocus, I will try and post some photos when I get enough time on my Mac not my phone to dig them out. The problems focussing with coast line etc do suggest there maybe a problem with the auto focus system and perhaps the lemur focussing was a combination of bad light and bad technique, I'm certainly no pro.
But I am looking to upgrade, the video function looks a useful tool to have and my 40D is getting on a bit. How I've managed to keep the weather out of it, heaven only knows, so I really need something weather sealed.

It's tempting to be drawn in by things like the GPS and wifi, but with things like Eye-fi, I suspect they are gimmicky.
 
Sounds like decided anyway, so struggling to see what the questions is..... Would still like to see some of these out of focus pictures, assuming the camera isn't broken I not convinced it not a technique issue.... Which will be present in any new camera.....
Going full frame could mean you need bigger/longer lenses for wildlife as you will loose the increase gained with crops sensors..... Something to factor into your budget.....

These are some pics I took.
pic1001.jpg

ISO 100 f/9 1/200 35mm on EF 24-105
pic2002.jpg

IS 100 f/8 1/400 105mm on EF 24-105
pic3003.jpg

ISO 800 f/7.1 1/8s 75mm on EF 75-300

Going back through them, I actually ended up taking a lot of photos with manual focus as it kept hunting. Probably, at least partly, due to low light, though it didn't seem particularly dark at the time.

They are taken with a coupe of lenses, I don't know if the EXIF data is embedded, can type it in if needed.

Your opinion would be appreciated, thanks.

P.S. these are directly from the unchanged RAW images with no adjustments
 
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Any idea how you export from Aperture with Exif data? I thought there was an option that I ticked to keep the info with it. I can type it in when I get home if not.

Edit: Updated pictures with some of the EXIF data, let me know if need more. All the focus points were pretty much middle of the picture so I would have thought would have covered the important focus points.

So is it just bad technique? I've never had an issue with focus before, have taken thousands of motorsport and wildlife photos that are beautifully in focus. And in the case of motorsport, cars coming directly at me at 150-200mph, the autofocus seemed to cope fine.
 
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So decided to get the 5D. First impressions, wow!!

Going back to University now to figure out the things you can change in the menu- makes the 40D look like a toy in comparison. Must be a hell of a shock going from xxxD to this!

Now just need to convince this missus that its the same camera I've had all along...
 
Perhaps it's my eye or age.... but are you saying this pictures are not in focus ? ... apart from the last one which looks to have a little motion blurring from being shot at 1/8s.
If they haven't been sharpened anywhere then they will look soft, all digital camera images do (except D800E) until you process them...
Anyway enjoy the 5D post some pictures from it....
 
Perhaps it's my eye or age.... but are you saying this pictures are not in focus ? ... apart from the last one which looks to have a little motion blurring from being shot at 1/8s.
If they haven't been sharpened anywhere then they will look soft, all digital camera images do (except D800E) until you process them...
Anyway enjoy the 5D post some pictures from it....

I agree with this, doesn't look like focus issues. The focus seems to be at the right spot but only you know where the focus point was.

And as above, the last photo is soft most likely due to shutter speed. That is all I will say about shutter speed without fear of being jumped upon.
 
I agree with the shutter speed comments, I didn't realise until I posted how slow the shutter speed was!

I felt though with the others that they just weren't quite in focus. Focus points are middle of the picture pretty much. With the lemur, I felt that there was fur in better focus than the eyes.

Perhaps I'm expecting too much? I did have quite a lot of throw aways, maybe related to the lw lying affecting focus rather than a problem with the camera.

Anyways, 5D now, onwards and upwards! Weekend off for a few photos...
 
The other 2 photos are not bitingly sharp but I am trying gauge where the focus plane was and it looks good to me. The lens just might not have been that sharp to begin with.

Another thing is the lizard photo, if IS was switched on at high shutter speed IS/VR can degrade image sharpness because the shutter speed is higher than the response time of the IS mechanism. /1400s should be OK but given the focal length and exposure then I would have switched IS off completely.
 
/1400s should be OK but given the focal length and exposure then I would have switched IS off completely.

Assume you mean 1/400s?

Had never really thought about turning off IS, but now I think about it, it makes sense that if the shutter speed is sufficiently high, shake shouldn't be an issue.

So you feel in bright sunshine with high speeds, then IS is really a waste of time (and battery power)?

I've always felt i "muddled" along with my old camera, perhaps relying on luck rather than necessarily judgement to get good photos. I really need to make sure that I justify the 2K on a new camera and make an effort to use it to its full potential.

It's when you get comments like these, that you realise sometimes how blindingly obvious some of these things are, but until someone points it out to you...
 
yes I meant 1/400s

IS/VR at high shutter speeds is not only a waste of time, but can provenly reduce image quality.

IS/Vr works by having rate gyroscopic sensor measure the rotational inertial movements of the system. They have a certain sampling frequency. Most gyroscopes only do about 500Hz, but according to Thom Hogan the gyros in the VR/IS systems are 1KHZ. But Signal processing theory will explain why meaningful measurements can only be recorded from half the sampling frequency (or conversely you need to sample at twice the Nyquist frequency).

In other words, the sensors can only detect movements at a rate of around 1/500th s.
A shutter speed faster than that ballpark can lead to blur caused by the IS/VR system.

A common but not directly related example is when an IS lens is used on a solid tripod, most lenses will end up giving a very blurry mess because the system is not responding correctly to the lack of movement. (some newer lenses, especially the telephotos can detect if the lens is on a tripod or not, and then switch off).


IS/VR leads to soft images at high shutter speeds. Even at lower shutter speeds it affects image quality, often most noticeable in the Bokeh.
So in general you should have IS switched off until such time as it is needed (when you are running out of light).
Even under slower speed say, 1/200th s if you don't need IS/VR due to the focal length then it is best to switch it off. I have plenty of examples of different images that are soft and I can only assume it was the VR system making incorrect measurements.

Like any electronic sensor the gyroscopes are subject to noise and the ultarsonic motor that shifts the lens element are also subject to noise and lag. In fact the gryopes are passed through a low-pass filter to reduce some of the noise, this will further reduce the oversampling rate.



this is a good read:
http://bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm
 

Appeals to the geek in me! Does make sense and is actually blindingly obvious! Amazing how these misconceptions seat themselves in your mind.

Looking forward to getting out at weekend. Taken a few of cat which look very nice!

Autofocus options are immense compared to my old 40D, think will take a good while to get used to and make the most of.
 
Be careful not to become a slave to the technology, make it do what you want not let he camera make all the decisions.
For focus I alway leave mine set to centre only, it works for most shots and is reliable and quick. If focus and recompose doesn't work I will manual pick an off centre focus point when the subject needs it.

I don't like it when the camera is left to choose what focus point to used.... Lent a 400D to my daughter once that was left with all the focus points active.... about 90% landscape and scenic shot were out of focus, as the camera picked the wrong point most times.

Know what you want, and tell the camera what to do..... goes for any camera how ever advanced it.
 
9designs2 - I agree it is easy to treat it like a point and shoot. In the past I've never really tried too hard to fiddle with things like focus points and metering, other than set centre point (like in photos above).

But the 5D seems to have so many options that I'm just itching to get at and fiddle with. Trial and error and what seems like the hundreds of resources on t'interweb, including very helpful on this here forum.
 
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