A question about cassettes

I would imagine that would be perfectly fine and they would have the same spline pattern to fit on the hub.

Why do you want to change it?
 
yeah it'll be fine.

Why do you want to change it?
Click to expand...

Perhaps he never uses 34T, like myself largest I've gone is 26T. With that, I can use more of the sprockets, because with a larger cassette I find all but the smallest three or four in the right gear range.
 
I have 3 cassettes and change them out depending on the course.
Hilly = 11-32
Up and down = 11-28
Flat = 12-25
 
SexyGreyFox said:
What is the difference between 32 and 34?
Probably nothing for my commute.
Click to expand...
2 extra teeth on the gear, so a larger sprocket on the rear = lower gear (better for climbing).

If your commute is quite flat and you're not really into riding hills there's really no need for something larger than 28T cassette.

Obviously that advice is assuming you have a 34*50 crankset. If you had a 36*52 you might appreciate a 32T cassette more! :)

A 34T cassette is quite low, you won't find many/any 10/11 speed road bikes with cassettes that low. I don't think Shimano do a 10/11 speed cassette lower than 11-32 and I would guess their 'trickle down tech' with their groupsets will mean we see them phased out as the lower groupsets eventually become 10 speed. SRAM on the other hand with their X1 groupset we'll see them much broader & lower.
 
SexyGreyFox said:
So should this cassette also be a direct replacement - http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bik...ain-cables/sram-pg-950-9-speed-cassette-11-32

What is the difference between 32 and 34?
Probably nothing for my commute.
Click to expand...

Generally you got for 32/34T if you have a MTB, or live in a very hilly area, or if the granny ring (small chainring) is still too big) or if you're unfit and carry heavy loads (or more than one of the above)

If you go too big on the cassette sprocket you may need a longer derailleur cage. And need a new chain as well.

I wouldn't go for a 34T that isn't suitable for a road bike.
 
Thanks for that.
The main reason for my question is that my gears keep missing and no matter what I do they keep jumping and my mate looked at my cassette and said it was my problem.
This evening I've given it a good scrubbing with a metal brush and it looks great and I also cleaned and oiled my rear derailleur.
I then looked at my cable and I think that's the problem, it was very hard to move in the shielding so I've bought another cable.

I also found another problem which wasn't there on Wednesday :eek: Oh my God

They are Schwalbe Silento's, I've had them for four years and they cost me £25 each. Halfords are selling them for £11.
 
SexyGreyFox said:
Thanks for that.
The main reason for my question is that my gears keep missing and no matter what I do they keep jumping and my mate looked at my cassette and said it was my problem.
This evening I've given it a good scrubbing with a metal brush and it looks great and I also cleaned and oiled my rear derailleur.
I then looked at my cable and I think that's the problem, it was very hard to move in the shielding so I've bought another cable.

I also found another problem which wasn't there on Wednesday :eek: Oh my God

They are Schwalbe Silento's, I've had them for four years and they cost me £25 each. Halfords are selling them for £11.
Click to expand...

Check chain wear as well. You might have a worn chain which'll cause slipping.

Bad indexing position, corroded inner cables, inner cable clamped on the wrong side, or incorrect "H" end stop could be additional causes as well.
 
I changed the chain last week and a mate said to change the cassette at the same time since they've both been on for 5 years.
I've just changed the cable and the old one was a struggle to get out of the sheaf down by the rear derailleur so that was a problem.
I'm still not indexing properly so I'm going to get a cassette.
 
Most likely the short cable near the rear derailleur is rusted up inside. I'd replace that length, usually water and dirt gets in.

Even if you have a worn cassette (as long as not so worn to nothing) , it should still change gear properly. If you can't move the inner cable by hand back and forth between gear changer and were it comes out near rear derailleur, then you need to look into that. It should be smooth.
 
The cable is sorted and I've bought the SRAM cassette but not fitted yet.

My problem is that my indexing looks textbook compared to You Tube videos and I have setup gears on at least 10 bikes multiple times with no problem.
What happens is that it all looks great on my stand but when I get on the bike they start slipping but never fall to the lower gear.
It may be a lot better now because my last 50 yard ride out of my gate wasn't too bad but I got too cold and fed up to carry on so I'll adjust on my way to work.
I'll put the cassette on when I get in tomorrow.
 
H end stop set up right? With the cable not clamped down, and using your left hand, pushng and letting go of the rear mech whilst pedalling does it fall back to smallest, and push up to largest, and neither case go to far and derail onto spokes or between frame?
 
Slipping as in the chain slips on the cassette teeth or its trying to go up/down a cog and isn't getting there? Always in a certain gear or across the range?

Definitely the chain/cassette and not the freehub slipping?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom