Advice On Order Of Upgrades

The tomahawk max comes ryzen 3000 ready out the box so no worries there.
The arctic freezer wont give you any ram clearance issues especially for just 2 modules.

Sorry, this is probably a stupid question but when I look at the specs of the motherboard, it mentions being able to support RAM up to 3.466 Mhz with OC. The RAM being 3600 Mhz, I assume it'll be compatible but I just won't be able to achieve 3600 Mhz with it?
 
Sorry, this is probably a stupid question but when I look at the specs of the motherboard, it mentions being able to support RAM up to 3.466 Mhz with OC. The RAM being 3600 Mhz, I assume it'll be compatible but I just won't be able to achieve 3600 Mhz with it?
My ram is running happily at 3800 on my tomahawk, I think the 3466 is only if your on a 2000 series CPU, for 3000 series it's up too 4133 or something like that.
 
So I've now been looking at which case I want to use but could just do with a little bit of advice to finalise that? I've put my final build at the bottom of this post (as suggested by Danny75) but the main concern I have with the case I'm looking at is I'm not sure it's the best for cooling? I'm going for a white minimalist setup at home. Already have a new white desk. I'd ideally have the pc on my desk ( which is 50 cm deep so should fit any of these cases).

Long story short, to go with my set up, which of these cases would need me to buy additional case fans? Do you have any recommendations on what fans to buy?

By my reckoning (might be wrong) I'd need to buy case fans to go with either of the Lian Lis or the H510?

From looks alone, I think I'd prefer the H510 elite, mainly due to the tempered glass on all sides and the RGB fans on the front. Is anyone aware of the build quality of these cases and the quality of cooling? The only things making me consider the others are concerns around cooling and the additional cost? Obviously if fans are needed on the other cases in addition, that brings the overall cost to more of a level playing field?

I'm also still open to case recommendations if people wouldn't mind providing some? Ideally a white theme. Hints of RGB would be a nice to have but by no means is it a requirement.

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £471.26 (includes shipping: £26.34)

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £1,289.13 (includes shipping: £13.20)
 
Can do it that way as well... just thought if you were going to save up more, then you get a better idea of total budget and how much you can assign to what. But it's fine.

Hopefully there'll be something better than RTX 2070 £350 in the offing.

You can use existing storage no problem.

Try upgrading to Windows 10 for free on current system. If it works, link the licence to a Microsoft account, and it should allow you to activate it with the new motherboard.

Sorry to be a pain... Could you point me in the right direction for making sure I get the cooling right in my case? Thinking the Nzxt 510 elite which is apparently bad for cooling.
 

I've been asking about cases over on that sub board and someone pointed out that the tomahawk Pro doesn't support a usbc connection on the case. I know the motherboard itself has a port on the back but can you think of a way around that other than finding a different case or having a redundant port on the case?
 
I've been asking about cases over on that sub board and someone pointed out that the tomahawk Pro doesn't support a usbc connection on the case. I know the motherboard itself has a port on the back but can you think of a way around that other than finding a different case or having a redundant port on the case?

The Lancool One doesn't have USB C despite having a non-connected port for it. If you went with Lancool II you can buy this separate cable for it:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £106.68 (includes shipping: £11.70)

I have no idea if the same cable could be compatible with the Lancool One.

As for the NZXT 510 Elite, I'm not a fan of proprietary RGB or "smart" gadgets that phone home a lot, and not entirely stable software (CAM) that can also break with Windows updates. Case is a looker though and has USB C and the cable included.

Anyway, if you want USB C case port active you'll either need a motherboard with internal USB C (more expense*). Or just buy a £20 USB C hub that you can connect to rear of motherboard and just sit on/beside your case for easier access.

* The cheapest board which supports it (unless I've missed one) is:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £193.49 (includes shipping: £10.50)



Sorry to be a pain... Could you point me in the right direction for making sure I get the cooling right in my case? Thinking the Nzxt 510 elite which is apparently bad for cooling.

No worries, actually saw your one of your posts yesterday and was meaning to reply but got distracted and forgot.

Let us know your thoughts on the USB C stuff, and when you decide on a case we can check the cooling/RGB setup.
 
stick with a 1080p screen then you can buy a 1600 super for £200 vs a 2070 for £400.

i'd go with the following

B450 tomahawk
3600X
1660 super
Crucial ballistix LT sport - 16GB (2 x 8)

total cost £500

whereas a GPU required for 1440P will cost you £500 alone. stick with 1080p if you are on a tight budget.
 
stick with a 1080p screen then you can buy a 1600 super for £200 vs a 2070 for £400.

i'd go with the following

B450 tomahawk
3600X
1660 super
Crucial ballistix LT sport - 16GB (2 x 8)

total cost £500

whereas a GPU required for 1440P will cost you £500 alone. stick with 1080p if you are on a tight budget.

According to tests I've looked at online, the rtx 2070 can achieve 100fps approx on most games at 1440p. I don't want to stick at 1080p. Its about time I made the jump. I appreciate the advice though.
 
The Lancool One doesn't have USB C despite having a non-connected port for it. If you went with Lancool II you can buy this separate cable for it:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £106.68 (includes shipping: £11.70)

I have no idea if the same cable could be compatible with the Lancool One.

As for the NZXT 510 Elite, I'm not a fan of proprietary RGB or "smart" gadgets that phone home a lot, and not entirely stable software (CAM) that can also break with Windows updates. Case is a looker though and has USB C and the cable included.

Anyway, if you want USB C case port active you'll either need a motherboard with internal USB C (more expense*). Or just buy a £20 USB C hub that you can connect to rear of motherboard and just sit on/beside your case for easier access.

* The cheapest board which supports it (unless I've missed one) is:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £193.49 (includes shipping: £10.50)





No worries, actually saw your one of your posts yesterday and was meaning to reply but got distracted and forgot.

Let us know your thoughts on the USB C stuff, and when you decide on a case we can check the cooling/RGB setup.

In all honesty, I mainly want the H510 Elite for the aesthetics but also like the two RGB fans behind the front window. If I'm spending £1k on a computer, I'd happily spend the extra £50 on the case if I really like it. That being said, I'm still not saying I won't drop to the standard h510 or even up to the PC-011. I've managed to bag a bit of over time at work so depending on how much I get, the budget might be relaxed slightly but, for the time being, I feel like the "insides" are specced unless unusual discounts get put on better components. Just the case and cooling to finalise. (More than likely H510 Elite if I can get the cooling right).

I think I'd prefer to just go with to tomahawk as I see that raved about everywhere and I'll make do with the usb-c hub connected to the back. It also saves a bit.
 
The Lancool One doesn't have USB C despite having a non-connected port for it. If you went with Lancool II you can buy this separate cable for it:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £106.68 (includes shipping: £11.70)

I have no idea if the same cable could be compatible with the Lancool One.

As for the NZXT 510 Elite, I'm not a fan of proprietary RGB or "smart" gadgets that phone home a lot, and not entirely stable software (CAM) that can also break with Windows updates. Case is a looker though and has USB C and the cable included.

Anyway, if you want USB C case port active you'll either need a motherboard with internal USB C (more expense*). Or just buy a £20 USB C hub that you can connect to rear of motherboard and just sit on/beside your case for easier access.

* The cheapest board which supports it (unless I've missed one) is:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £193.49 (includes shipping: £10.50)





No worries, actually saw your one of your posts yesterday and was meaning to reply but got distracted and forgot.

Let us know your thoughts on the USB C stuff, and when you decide on a case we can check the cooling/RGB setup.

It's more than likely going to be what's below now.

What cooling would you recommend for the case? Noticed that there are no stock fans on the front. Is it best to go 2 x 140mm on the front and upgrade the roof fan to 140mm? Are there any good (and cheap) quiet ones? I can get the same as the ones on the cpu cooler but they're a bit expensive (£16 each). Preferably black and white fans.

Starting to think I'll need a second Windows so I can leave my current build for a back up for multiplayer. Where would be best to get windows from?

Will the stock thermal paste on the cpu be OK?

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £1,021.18 (includes shipping: £12.30)
 
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £55.69 (includes shipping: £8.70)​

Those are great air flow fans, especially for the front where there is no obstruction.

Cheaper, still good:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £29.55 (includes shipping: £8.70)​

For Windows 10 Pro you need an 8GB minimum USB stick, then download the ISO from Microsoft to it. Use the ISO to install on the new system. Then surf for budget activation options. Watch some vids for ideas, Pauls Hardware etc.

The stock paste should be very good MX-4.
 
Basically you can find Win 10 Pro keys for below £10. Can't go into detail. Last one I purchased was £5 and there's even cheaper but I stick to the same seller as so far so good.
 
My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £55.69 (includes shipping: £8.70)

Those are great air flow fans, especially for the front where there is no obstruction.

Cheaper, still good:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £29.55 (includes shipping: £8.70)

For Windows 10 Pro you need an 8GB minimum USB stick, then download the ISO from Microsoft to it. Use the ISO to install on the new system. Then surf for budget activation options. Watch some vids for ideas, Pauls Hardware etc.

The stock paste should be very good MX-4.

Thanks for all your help with this. I know I've been asking you loads of questions but I've wanted to get my head around what I was buying first. I've learned a lot these past few days haha! It's really appreciated anyway.
 
You're very welcome, don't worry about asking more if needed.

Hi again Danny. I've seen the Radeon RX 5700 XT recommended a lot at this price point (seems to be same price as rtx 2070). What's your opinion between the two and is there a specific manufacture I should go with? If a rtx 2070 is the better choice, completely happy with that, just thought I'd see what you thought. Is it easier to upgrade (obviously not for a while) from nvidia to nvidia over amd to nvidia or does it not really matter? Would there be any compatibility issues if you were to recommend the rx 5700 XT?
 
Nvidia pips AMD right now when it comes to smoother-sailing with drivers. The driver issues don't affect everyone. Just a higher percentage than Nvidia users.

Performance-wise the 5700XT sits between the RTX 2070 and 2070 Super.

The 5700XT with best reviews/feedback (to my knowledge) are:

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £2,416.60 (includes shipping: £11.70)

Any of these are great choices so would just choose based on current prices. My pick right now would be the Gigabyte Aorus with 4 year warranty if you register.

Any case, hold off till end of March for news on Nvidia Ampere cards. Then see what release date is being floated.
 
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