Alienware announces the AW2725DF and AW3225QF (worlds first 4k 240hz and worlds first 1440p 360hz QD-OLED monitors - launches January 2024)
- Thread starter Grim5
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Soldato
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I went with HDMI as out of the two cables that came with the monitor only the HDMI had a high bandwidth sticker on it.
I went with DP, however, I may change this and use the included hdmi
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Higher bandwidth (48 Gbps vs. 32.4 Gbps on DP 1.4) → Reduces compression reliance.
Better native support for 4K 240Hz without artifacts.
Longer cable runs possible (DP 1.4 cables often need to be short for max bandwidth).
Better support for HDR at 10-bit+ color depth.
If your monitor lacks full HDMI 2.1 bandwidth (some monitors cap HDMI 2.1 to ~40 Gbps instead of 48 Gbps).
If your GPU has better support for DP (e.g., NVIDIA RTX cards often favor DP for VRR and G-Sync).
If your setup already has high-quality DP cables and works well.
If Your Monitor & GPU Support Both DP 1.4 and HDMI 2.1
- Use HDMI 2.1 if possible because it has more raw bandwidth (48 Gbps) and can handle 4K 240Hz more efficiently with less reliance on DSC.
- Use DP 1.4 only if your monitor doesn’t support full 48 Gbps HDMI 2.1 or if you prefer DP for G-Sync/FreeSync compatibility.
Why HDMI 2.1 is the Better Choice for 4K 240Hz
Higher bandwidth (48 Gbps vs. 32.4 Gbps on DP 1.4) → Reduces compression reliance. Better native support for 4K 240Hz without artifacts. Longer cable runs possible (DP 1.4 cables often need to be short for max bandwidth). Better support for HDR at 10-bit+ color depth.
When to Use DP 1.4 Instead
If your monitor lacks full HDMI 2.1 bandwidth (some monitors cap HDMI 2.1 to ~40 Gbps instead of 48 Gbps).
If your GPU has better support for DP (e.g., NVIDIA RTX cards often favor DP for VRR and G-Sync).
If your setup already has high-quality DP cables and works well.
Final Verdict
- If both options are available, go HDMI 2.1 for better native support.
- If your monitor or GPU has limitations, DP 1.4 with DSC is still viable.
- Always check your monitor’s HDMI 2.1 bandwidth—some don’t use the full 48 Gbps.
Used DP 1.4 with my AW2725DF (1440p 360hz) and HDMI 2.1 with my LG32GS5UV (4k 240hz). The AW2725DF model was limited to just 144hz over HDMI so that made my decision for me there - and with the LG model, I couldn't create custom resolutions over DP 1.4 but could over HDMI 2.1 (and I use a cropped 27" 3288 x 1850 for FPS games) so HDMI was my choice there!
Yea definitely, for that price for a gen 3 QDOLED 360hz display, couldn't say no
I tried these settings - https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...enware_aw3225qf_best_settings_no_abl_uniform/
Looks good but way too bright, especially on the whites. I had to change the HDR/SDR brighness balance down to 10 in Windows.
I'm going to have a play around with 'normal' settings
Looks good but way too bright, especially on the whites. I had to change the HDR/SDR brighness balance down to 10 in Windows.
I'm going to have a play around with 'normal' settings
Soldato
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Not sure about that. Those settings don’t look right at all in that Reddit post.
Use these instead.
same video I followed when doing my settings, havent looked back since!
Thanks, will give these a try.
I've tried these.
To ebable HDR, does this mean you need to go into Windows display settings and select to 'Use HDR' each time you want it on in a game? As oppose to be being on all the time as per reddit settings.
I played a couple games yesterday on Black Ops 6 and Dolby Vision was automatically enabled (at least it appeared to be in the menu)
Also, in NCP manage 3d settings the max frame rate i've set to 235 FPS.
Gsync looks like its working down to 60fps/hz. Anything below that sends the monitor crazy into the 100hz realm. A native gsync monitor in this respect is way more accurate with fps matching monitor refresh down to 20fps/hz and holding 1:1 throughout changing fps. Not so much an issue as play will usually be 120-220fps at 4k for me
Monitor OSD, others, display info and right shows the changing monitor Hz. It would be nice to see this on screen (might be possible somehow?)
Text is very clear but I do still notice a difference from IPS/TN for sure. Most noticable on white text on dark backgrounds, it appears to have a green tinge above it e.g. the edge of my browser window on my dark background.
Glad to say no issues at all with the panel (dead/red/green/stuck pixlels)
I'll keep it for a few days, its a nice looking panel but wouldnt say its completely blown my mind. The difference was night and day going from 100hz max to playing at ~144hz and above
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@Guest2 something worth keeping in mind is ‘windows auto HDR’.
Confusingly, this isn’t always ’true native HDR’ in the sense that it’s been calibrated by the game.
I’ve very rarely seen it, but sometimes you end up with a ‘double HDR’ scenario - windows applies an HDR setting and then the game applies HDR over the top, ended up with strange colours or agressive oversaturation. Resident Evil Village comes to mind as ‘one of those games’.
You can navigate around this by turning auto-HDR off, enabling HDR on windows/monitor (use the shortcut above) then enabling HDR in the game.
Most of the time there isn’t an issue… but if it’s looking weird or ‘off’ for some reason it could be that.
Auto-HDR can look good in a game when there isn’t native support (such as ‘Subnautica’).
P.s. I see you’ve taken the plunge on an OLED to give it a whirl - which specific model did you go for in the end? The 4k or the 1440p?
Confusingly, this isn’t always ’true native HDR’ in the sense that it’s been calibrated by the game.
I’ve very rarely seen it, but sometimes you end up with a ‘double HDR’ scenario - windows applies an HDR setting and then the game applies HDR over the top, ended up with strange colours or agressive oversaturation. Resident Evil Village comes to mind as ‘one of those games’.
You can navigate around this by turning auto-HDR off, enabling HDR on windows/monitor (use the shortcut above) then enabling HDR in the game.
Most of the time there isn’t an issue… but if it’s looking weird or ‘off’ for some reason it could be that.
Auto-HDR can look good in a game when there isn’t native support (such as ‘Subnautica’).
P.s. I see you’ve taken the plunge on an OLED to give it a whirl - which specific model did you go for in the end? The 4k or the 1440p?
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This doesnt work for me, is it Win 11? (im on 10)Windows + Alt + B = toggle HDR on/off
^^^ great shortcut
Thanks - AW3225QF. Im still on the fence to be honest if its worth the money over my trusty Acer X34 ultrawide@Guest2 something worth keeping in mind is ‘windows auto HDR’.
Confusingly, this isn’t always ’true native HDR’ in the sense that it’s been calibrated by the game.
I’ve very rarely seen it, but sometimes you end up with a ‘double HDR’ scenario - windows applies an HDR setting and then the game applies HDR over the top, ended up with strange colours or agressive oversaturation. Resident Evil Village comes to mind as ‘one of those games’.
You can navigate around this by turning auto-HDR off, enabling HDR on windows/monitor (use the shortcut above) then enabling HDR in the game.
Most of the time there isn’t an issue… but if it’s looking weird or ‘off’ for some reason.
Auto-HDR can look good in a game when there isn’t native support (such as ‘Subnautica’).
P.s. I see you’ve taken the plunge on an OLED to give it a whirl - which specific model did you go for in the end? The 4k or the 1440p?
Hmm I’m not sure about Windows 10 you’ll have to have a google.
From my own very quick search there might be issues with ICP profile switching when using the shortcut… I’ll have to investigate this myself later!
Key things for you to check out to show off your monitor blacks and contrast are, for example, the classic ‘HDR 4K test’ on YouTube:
That should look significantly better on your OLED.
But yes, these are expensive monitors for sure.
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Ta, ill give it a watch.
Expense wise, it was quite a bit cheaper than my IPS. The Acer X34 was £1000 when I bought it in 2016
This also looks great
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Followed this, looks great now both in SDR and HDR - thanks