Am I missing something? High GPU temps (60c load - EKWB 3080ti FE)

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I guess its personal preference, but I don't really understand why anyone would build a watercooled system without adequate fan control, unless its for a PC which is only ever used for gaming and so the fans just go straight to high rpms. The purpose of the water is to cool the active components, and the purpose of the fans is to cool the water. Therefore the fan rpms should be controlled by the water temperature. It's not as if temperature sensors are particularly expensive.
 
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I guess its personal preference, but I don't really understand why anyone would build a watercooled system without adequate fan control, unless its for a PC which is only ever used for gaming and so the fans just go straight to high rpms. The purpose of the water is to cool the active components, and the purpose of the fans is to cool the water. Therefore the fan rpms should be controlled by the water temperature. It's not as if temperature sensors are particularly expensive.
Because a lot of motherboards don't allow water temperature sensors to be connected. My MSI b450M mortar doesn't, unless you can add it via USB header (I'm not forking out for corsair).
 
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Because a lot of motherboards don't allow water temperature sensors to be connected. My MSI b450M mortar doesn't, unless you can add it via USB header (I'm not forking out for corsair).

exactly this most specially the RBG Fans do not have fan headers, therefore only controllable by the RGB remote but you cannot select RPM fan control. You can however monitor the water coolant temp by adding a monitor i use the BarrowCH, i have this added straight from the CPU before heading to the Radiator, therefore if there is any overheat of components it autoshuts off at 80'c you can however select lower temps. GPUZ is also a very useful piece of software it can show you the hotspot and VRAM temps.

The main key point is airflow in the case and having the exhaust or intake in the wrong place can cause anomalies or having the case as all exhaust will cause negative air pressure (higher temps), but a load temp on a GPU of 60c is pretty good on water because you have to take into account ambient temps (air going into the case). I think you should be fine with temps of 60c on load, doesn't most of these cards run hot anyway i know that AMD Cards in particular do upto 110'c !!

Might be worth reading this https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/9827/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3080-ti-founders-edition/index.html

it seems that anywhere between 60 - 66c on load between 1800mhz - 2000mhz is a sweet spot.
 
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exactly this most specially the RBG Fans do not have fan headers, therefore only controllable by the RGB remote but you cannot select RPM fan control. You can however monitor the water coolant temp by adding a monitor i use the BarrowCH, i have this added straight from the CPU before heading to the Radiator, therefore if there is any overheat of components it autoshuts off at 80'c you can however select lower temps. GPUZ is also a very useful piece of software it can show you the hotspot and VRAM temps.

The main key point is airflow in the case and having the exhaust or intake in the wrong place can cause anomalies or having the case as all exhaust will cause negative air pressure (higher temps), but a load temp on a GPU of 60c is pretty good on water because you have to take into account ambient temps (air going into the case). I think you should be fine with temps of 60c on load, doesn't most of these cards run hot anyway i know that AMD Cards in particular do upto 110'c !!

Might be worth reading this https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/9827/nvidia-geforce-rtx-3080-ti-founders-edition/index.html

it seems that anywhere between 60 - 66c on load between 1800mhz - 2000mhz is a sweet spot.
I'm not overly concerned about my temperatures. I'm using a lian li O11 dynamic as well which is a great looking case, but is a big heat box when it comes to cooling.
 
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Because a lot of motherboards don't allow water temperature sensors to be connected. My MSI b450M mortar doesn't, unless you can add it via USB header (I'm not forking out for corsair).
Well that motherboard is pretty budget oriented, not really designed for watercoolers in mind. If you don't have a header you can get an external unit for less than a tenner that'll do it, at least then you can establish a delta between water temps and component temps for diagnosis and fan control.

Currently I have a motherboard with the necessary headers so all my fans run off the water temp. Previously I did not so I used the GPU temperature as it was always about 5C higher than water temps.
 
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Just out of curiosity when was the last time you changed the thermal pads? so not the paste, i have 4 thermal pads 1 on the VRAM then 3 on the chips.

I just replaced mine to 1.5mm also done the thermal paste on both the CPU and GPU, also flushed out the old Coolant

Temps before 80- 106c under load between clocks of 1850 and 2000mhz bearing in mind it's a 5700 bios flashed to 5700xt for the extra performance.

NOW idle 36c (so this is the equilibium temp) on load 1750 - 2000mhz 50'c that's a massive change in temperature almost 50% change. the only difference is that i changed the top exhausts to Antic p12 which are pressure optimised. i can only think the fans that i had before where Airlow instead of pressure.

I can only guess that it's probably the case airflow if you have changed the thermal paste, and in the right setup you could get 50'c on load however 60c on a GPU is pretty good tbh.

I put this loop in 5 days ago - cleaned and reapplied all thermal paste. I recleaned and reapplied paste to the GPU block twice after that. New coolant, new components (flushed with distilled water). My idle temps are ok: 29c on GPU and 35c on CPU. The P14s create abit more more pressure on paper! thats interesting.


I have a 3080ti with the EK block. I've just rebuilt into a new case with a new loop, and thought while I was at it I'd repaste the gpu with liquid metal and 'upgrade' the thermal pads.

My last case was the highly unoriginal 011D XL with 3 360 Rads, and I had a fairly consistent max gpu temp of 50 degrees. That was a water to core delta of about 15 degrees. It all worked well enough but it was noisier than I was happy with and I like to tinker.

I've jumped on the Mora bandwagon and I've not used it much yet but so far it looks like my water temperatures have gone down a lot (along with a lot of the annoying noise), but my GPU temps have gone up to 60 degrees which is a 40 degree core to water delta.

After a bit of trial and error mounting and remounting the block I figured out it's because the 1mm thermal pads I've used are less squishy than the ones EK supply. They don't compress quite enough so the block isn't making good contact with core. It's close, but it's not right!

My advice would be to get a water temperature sensor if you don't already have one to see how your block is performing from a core to water temperature perspective, as that should help narrow down whether it's the block or the loop as a whole causing the high(ish) temperature. If the water temperaure is 40-45 degrees you're in the right ball park so more rad / fans should help. If the core to water delta is high, check the pads / core contact.

I should have planned for a water temp sensor, but now it would be a hassle to install it - unless it went in the radiator drain port which is fairly easily accessible but not sure if thats a good place to put it tbh.


I think this is just how its gonna be for me. I don't think i have set anything up wrong - 2x280mm rads provide more than enough cooling power. 60c is fine - just wanted to see if i had missed something obvious
 
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I think it's ok borderline disappointing.

I'm on a 3080 so a bit different i know...but if I was hitting 60...I'd be wondering why I'd bothered.

I have recently found the max speed of the fans where I can't hear them. I have them go to that speed when the water temp hits 25.. at desktop they never come on (at least in winter) and when they come on when I game, I barely hit 45c 55c hotspots and 67 vram.
I have a mining profile which spins fans a fraction faster and reduces clocks and runs the same temps...
 
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Well that motherboard is pretty budget oriented, not really designed for watercoolers in mind. If you don't have a header you can get an external unit for less than a tenner that'll do it, at least then you can establish a delta between water temps and component temps for diagnosis and fan control.

Currently I have a motherboard with the necessary headers so all my fans run off the water temp. Previously I did not so I used the GPU temperature as it was always about 5C higher than water temps.
It wasn't when I bought it. I also know my water temperature is 41°C, that is after several days of mining.
 
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I think it's ok borderline disappointing.

I'm on a 3080 so a bit different i know...but if I was hitting 60...I'd be wondering why I'd bothered.

I have recently found the max speed of the fans where I can't hear them. I have them go to that speed when the water temp hits 25.. at desktop they never come on (at least in winter) and when they come on when I game, I barely hit 45c 55c hotspots and 67 vram.
I have a mining profile which spins fans a fraction faster and reduces clocks and runs the same temps...
Your water temp is 25°C? You must live in a cold house.
 
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Just for info, I'm gonna try remount the block again. Everything looks fine from taking it apart - paste covered the whole die on both sides.

Update - made no difference

IMG20211126115125.jpg
 
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Just for info, I'm gonna try remount the block again. Everything looks fine from taking it apart - paste covered the whole die on both sides.

IMG20211126115125.jpg
The two pads overlapping maybe causing the GPU core not to be making contact with the waterblock

I don't know. Maybe. Room temp in my study is 19c at the mo. I don't have heating on in here.

When I mine, water temp goes to just on 28c.
And others on this forum have said 40°C is fine for a water temp. I am mining a 3090, with the memory on the back also in the loop at +1900
 
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The two pads overlapping maybe causing the GPU core not to be making contact with the waterblock

I reapplied the pads again too (with new pads) just in case one of them was causing obstruction. No difference, in fact, it might be a little worse now. Running a few degrees hotter..oh well
 
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I reapplied the pads again too (with new pads) just in case one of them was causing obstruction. No difference, in fact, it might be a little worse now. Running a few degrees hotter..oh well

Everyone that I've read state that running a 3080/Ti/3090 requires two 360mm radiators or you'll struggle with 280s.
 
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My 3080Ti runs pretty toasty in my WC loop with a 59050x when stress testing hitting mid 50s to 60C on core with the mem and hotspot being a further 10C, I am not too worried about it, on air it was hitting 84C core and near 100C memory and pulling back clocks on the FE cooler, a temperature it is clearly designed to run at, so getting 60C and clocks in excess of 2Ghz with a 1k OC on memory is an improvement. I too probably don't have enough rad and certainly don't have strong fans as I don't want too much noise, water temp is around 42C.

Put it back together and don't fuss, it is still better than air and you will have much better boost clocks, get playing some games :D.
 
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Everyone that I've read state that running a 3080/Ti/3090 requires two 360mm radiators or you'll struggle with 280s.
a 280mm rad is only around 10% less surface area than a 360mm rad, less when considering the deadzone under central hub of 2 fans vs 3.

@toontoonizer If your motherboard has a thermocouple header (usually just 2 pin header denoted with TC) then adding a £5 probe to one of the spare inlets on the pump is a good idea. I wouldn't be overly concerned for the GPU running at 60C but if your water is 55C as a result then that could be a cause for concern.
 

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a 280mm rad is only around 10% less surface area than a 360mm rad, less when considering the deadzone under central hub of 2 fans vs 3.

Something else must be wrong then if what he describes others getting much lower. Correct flow direction?

I'm looking through his specs and his radiators are 0.7mm thicker on one and 0.1mm more on the other compared to mine. Granted that's nothing.

My waterloop runs about 34C on gaming for several hours, temperature probe coming out from the pump, two 360mm radiators with 3 fans running at 1000rpm and the top 3 at 1300 - 1500rpm under load. The 3080Ti runs around 44C on the core, memory 50C and hot spot 51C with a pump speed of 2500rpm which is just slightly more than 50% of its actual speed. This all being in a room 21 - 23C with the loop idling at 25 - 27C.

He remounted the block and got slightly worse temperatures, so it cannot be the block that's going to knock off 10C. As you can see the core contact it had.
 
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Something else must be wrong then if what he describes others getting much lower. Correct flow direction?

I'm looking through his specs and his radiators are 0.7mm thicker on one and 0.1mm more on the other compared to mine. Granted that's nothing.

My waterloop runs about 34C on gaming for several hours, temperature probe coming out from the pump, two 360mm radiators with 3 fans running at 1000rpm and the top 3 at 1300 - 1500rpm under load. The 3080Ti runs around 44C on the core, memory 50C and hot spot 51C with a pump speed of 2500rpm which is just slightly more than 50% of its actual speed. This all being in a room 21 - 23C with the loop idling at 25 - 27C.

He remounted the block and got slightly worse temperatures, so it cannot be the block that's going to knock off 10C. As you can see the core contact it had.

How the hell do you get that? Liquid metal?

I've checked the inlet and outlet ports, they are all correctly connected so the flow direction is correct. Plus when I filled it up I could see the flow was circulating correctly.

Not really sure what's left apart from bigger radiators, or my CPU is dumping a huge amount of heat into the loop. Or my radiators are terrible? Nothing came out when I flushed them before putting them in

EDIT:
I did notice that the temperature jumps dramatically under load and then gradually increases - pretty sure this is normal?

unknown.png
 
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How the hell do you get that? Liquid metal?

I've checked the inlet and outlet ports, they are all correctly connected so the flow direction is correct. Plus when I filled it up I could see the flow was circulating correctly.

Not really sure what's left apart from bigger radiators, or my CPU is dumping a huge amount of heat into the loop. Or my radiators are terrible? Nothing came out when I flushed them before putting them in

It's just ordinary Kryonaut. Perhaps it is the CPU. Try running GPU-Z with the Render Test to see how quick it increases the temperature, then let it cool and do the same for the CPU with Cinebench to see how quickly it spikes the temperatures. Perhaps the radiators aren't big enough for that CPU and GPU?

With Cinebench all cores 5Ghz on the i9 10900K it reaches about 70 - 75C. Gaming dependant on what it is, reaches between 55 to 65C.
 
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It's just ordinary Kryonaut. Perhaps it is the CPU. Try running GPU-Z with the Render Test to see how quick it increases the temperature, then let it cool and do the same for the CPU with Cinebench to see how quickly it spikes the temperatures. Perhaps the radiators aren't big enough for that CPU and GPU?

With Cinebench all cores 5Ghz on the i9 10900K it reaches about 70 - 75C. Gaming dependant on what it is, reaches between 55 to 65C.

The render test does nothing to the GPU - no change in temps.

When running Cinebench, the CPU does not go over 68c, in fact it stays around 65/66 mostly - when gaming it is under or at 50c. this is with a all core 4.5Ghz OC @ 1.15v

I'm baffed - does this point to the GPU block if the CPU seems to coping very well
 
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