Don
- Joined
- 20 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 17,154
- Location
- In a house
Nice to see such commitment to the cause 
Anglia Progress
- Thread starter Jonny69
- Start date
Nice to see such commitment to the cause
What? Wussing off indoors 'cos it's a bit cold and he got a couple of cuts. bloomin' pansy.
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
- Posts
- 17,718
- Location
- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
Kinda slow progress this week but it's starting to take shape. This is how I left it on Saturday in the garage. Doors are on and flipfront is on its hinges so the car is easy to move around in one piece:
I re-arranged the garage a bit so the back corner is now a worktop set out on two Workmates and I can lay out various bits of trim, engine bits etc. All those bits that are difficult to do on the floor. Monday night I lugged all the interior down from the flat to the garage incuding the seats so the whole car is back in the garage for the first time in probably 3 years!!! Up in the warmth of the flat I cut my space mat insulation to the template I made back in about 2005 and last night gave it a trial fit. Couple of trims here and there and it dropped straight in:
I bought some new fitted carpets off eBay a long long time ago, clearly in anticipation, and dropped them on top to see what they looked like. "Fitted" is a word I wouldn't have used personally because they are as baggy as hell, but I have to admit it does look a lot better than what I had in there before and it'll be fine once the seats are bolted in.
Once I'd finished faffing I cut holes in the space mat so I could get through to bolt the seats in, a surprisingly fiddly job, then ripped all the old black rear interior panels out and replaced them with the lush red ones I had hiding under the spare bed:
I wanted to continue but I was a few nuts and bolts short to bolt the seats in and there's a few interior fixings missing to hold the door panels and handles on. I got the bolts tonight but, typically, my enthusiasm was curbed by my Pop refusing to start so I had to deal with that or risk having to drive her car to work again. I had put some new plugs in it and they obviously don't like my ludicrously keen gapping technique in the cold weather so once I'd closed them up a bit it fired up great. It was one of those nights where I kept bashing my head and dropping things, then the kid from round the corner turned up so instead of shouting at it and swearing (which would have fixed it) I had to stifle my anger and the job took longer than necessary.
So here we are with a pocket full of nuts and bolts, patiently waiting until tomorrow night in the garage...
I re-arranged the garage a bit so the back corner is now a worktop set out on two Workmates and I can lay out various bits of trim, engine bits etc. All those bits that are difficult to do on the floor. Monday night I lugged all the interior down from the flat to the garage incuding the seats so the whole car is back in the garage for the first time in probably 3 years!!! Up in the warmth of the flat I cut my space mat insulation to the template I made back in about 2005 and last night gave it a trial fit. Couple of trims here and there and it dropped straight in:
I bought some new fitted carpets off eBay a long long time ago, clearly in anticipation, and dropped them on top to see what they looked like. "Fitted" is a word I wouldn't have used personally because they are as baggy as hell, but I have to admit it does look a lot better than what I had in there before and it'll be fine once the seats are bolted in.
Once I'd finished faffing I cut holes in the space mat so I could get through to bolt the seats in, a surprisingly fiddly job, then ripped all the old black rear interior panels out and replaced them with the lush red ones I had hiding under the spare bed:
I wanted to continue but I was a few nuts and bolts short to bolt the seats in and there's a few interior fixings missing to hold the door panels and handles on. I got the bolts tonight but, typically, my enthusiasm was curbed by my Pop refusing to start so I had to deal with that or risk having to drive her car to work again. I had put some new plugs in it and they obviously don't like my ludicrously keen gapping technique in the cold weather so once I'd closed them up a bit it fired up great. It was one of those nights where I kept bashing my head and dropping things, then the kid from round the corner turned up so instead of shouting at it and swearing (which would have fixed it) I had to stifle my anger and the job took longer than necessary.
So here we are with a pocket full of nuts and bolts, patiently waiting until tomorrow night in the garage...
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 4,457
- Location
- between Blandford Street and Mars
God, I know what that feels like after retrimming the Stag and the GT6. It's such a fiddley pita to get right. You want the smallest hole possible, but it all to line up exactly, and each time you cut a new hole, the others move out of place and you have to re-alighn everything.
I've learnt the best way to get it all to fit is to cut one hole, and then put a seat bolt in place, cut the next and bolt it and so on. That way the carpets and sound deadening material all stay where they were put and the holes you cut all line up properly.
Soldato
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 4,457
- Location
- between Blandford Street and Mars
Cool, I'll remember that for next time, whenever that might be
lol, yeah, it's a bit late for tips now you've done it
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
- Posts
- 17,718
- Location
- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
Not much going on over the last few weeks due to work commitments and it's set me back quite a bit so I'm glad to have a long weekend free to catch up. My wallet has to take a light bashing too because I'm short of a few bits and bobs. So far this weekend it's been a battery and a new alternator. Jaysus have these things gone up a bit in price in the last few years or what? £45 for an alternator!!!
Well it would have been if I'd got it from the shop. Instead I opted for a "new" one off eBay that set me back £1. Yes folks, that's less than half a drink for this:
Shame the postage was a tenner but it's quite heavy. Don't know what it is but my cars have always eaten batteries, even since I switched to alternators from dynamos so I opted to spend a bit more and get the battery from Halfords so I can take the mick out of them with their 3 year warranty. Mugs. I also managed to leave the old dead battery in the shop by mistake, of course it was a mistake.
Kicking off today the foxes decided to eat about a foot of my extension lead so that needed dealing with first:
So glad I didn't just flick the switch because that would have gone kaboom! I don't normally do jobs this properly but I soldered and heatshrinked and wrapped it all back up again:
While I was doing that the weather started closing in (rain, wind, hail, wind, snow etc) so I decided to bring a few bits up and work from the warmth and comfort of the sofa. Brought up the inlet manifold, studs, carbs and hubcaps.
Now I need the aid of my all time favourite product, Chemical Metal. I've had no success with studlock in the past so I'm going to glue the studs in permanently with this stuff.
Used the tried and tested two-nuts method to screw the studs in and let them set. I totally forgot to check if the length was ok so here's hoping...
The manifold is a 105Speed pre-crossflow 2xDCOE inlet. Unlike a lot of pre-crossflow DCOE manifolds this one is one-piece rather than a pair and it makes mounting the carbs a lot lot easier and stops the carbs or one side of the manifold coming loose. It's needed a bit of modification to suit and the metal is a bit thin at the bottom but it's otherwise great. More about that later.
This little interior light fitment here is probably one of the hardest parts of a 105E to get hold of because it's brittle and breaks to bits when you take the lens off it. I scavenged this one for nothing but it broke up when I was taking it off. Bit of Chemical Metal and it was fixed:
Main job for the day is jet these buggers up and get them mounted on the manifold:
Basically I have a habit of over-carbing my engines so this time I'm doing the unspeakable and being sensible on my choice of chokes and jets. It'll also mean I won't run lean at the top end which I have done in the past by using oversize chokes in a 40 body. 34mm is the maximum you should use but you can get 36's from Burton. If you look at them they really don't throttle the flow very much in a 40 DCOE and thus don't draw the fuel in very well, the 36 is more suited to a 45 body. I'm going to drop down one size to a 34mm and rejet the carb to suit. It'll still have plenty of flow - don't worry.
Here's how you change the jets. There's four of everything, one for each carb barrel and they are all accessible from the top of the carb so you can do this in situ if you don't have access to a comfy sofa and coffee table like I do (yes, she's away again). Main and idle jets are under this cover:
Undo the wingnut and there they are:
Unscrew them and they slide out:
Well it would have been if I'd got it from the shop. Instead I opted for a "new" one off eBay that set me back £1. Yes folks, that's less than half a drink for this:
Shame the postage was a tenner but it's quite heavy. Don't know what it is but my cars have always eaten batteries, even since I switched to alternators from dynamos so I opted to spend a bit more and get the battery from Halfords so I can take the mick out of them with their 3 year warranty. Mugs. I also managed to leave the old dead battery in the shop by mistake, of course it was a mistake.
Kicking off today the foxes decided to eat about a foot of my extension lead so that needed dealing with first:
So glad I didn't just flick the switch because that would have gone kaboom! I don't normally do jobs this properly but I soldered and heatshrinked and wrapped it all back up again:
While I was doing that the weather started closing in (rain, wind, hail, wind, snow etc) so I decided to bring a few bits up and work from the warmth and comfort of the sofa. Brought up the inlet manifold, studs, carbs and hubcaps.
Now I need the aid of my all time favourite product, Chemical Metal. I've had no success with studlock in the past so I'm going to glue the studs in permanently with this stuff.
Used the tried and tested two-nuts method to screw the studs in and let them set. I totally forgot to check if the length was ok so here's hoping...
The manifold is a 105Speed pre-crossflow 2xDCOE inlet. Unlike a lot of pre-crossflow DCOE manifolds this one is one-piece rather than a pair and it makes mounting the carbs a lot lot easier and stops the carbs or one side of the manifold coming loose. It's needed a bit of modification to suit and the metal is a bit thin at the bottom but it's otherwise great. More about that later.
This little interior light fitment here is probably one of the hardest parts of a 105E to get hold of because it's brittle and breaks to bits when you take the lens off it. I scavenged this one for nothing but it broke up when I was taking it off. Bit of Chemical Metal and it was fixed:
Main job for the day is jet these buggers up and get them mounted on the manifold:
Basically I have a habit of over-carbing my engines so this time I'm doing the unspeakable and being sensible on my choice of chokes and jets. It'll also mean I won't run lean at the top end which I have done in the past by using oversize chokes in a 40 body. 34mm is the maximum you should use but you can get 36's from Burton. If you look at them they really don't throttle the flow very much in a 40 DCOE and thus don't draw the fuel in very well, the 36 is more suited to a 45 body. I'm going to drop down one size to a 34mm and rejet the carb to suit. It'll still have plenty of flow - don't worry.
Here's how you change the jets. There's four of everything, one for each carb barrel and they are all accessible from the top of the carb so you can do this in situ if you don't have access to a comfy sofa and coffee table like I do (yes, she's away again). Main and idle jets are under this cover:
Undo the wingnut and there they are:
Unscrew them and they slide out:
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
- Posts
- 17,718
- Location
- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
This is the idle jet and holder. They just push into each other:
From the left here is the main jet, emulsion tube, top end air jet and the holder:
Under this cap is the throttle pump jet:
This is the one that empties your petrol tank when you press the accelerator. Yes, it's this one single jet that gives Webers their legendary bad fuel economy:
Because there's four of them that's four times the squirt it shoots in every time you press go compared to other carbs. Fine when you're on the move but it chews petrol in stop start traffic. Thankfully with the smaller chokes I dropped a couple of sizes and it'll probably make a big difference.
The chokes are down the carb barrels and you have to take the trumpets out to access them. The trumpets are secured with these tabs:
Then depending on the age of the DCOE you slacken the screws in the side of the body and slide out the auxilliary venturi (on the right) and the choke shown on the left:
Once back together I had a trial fit. The studs are a bit long but nothing to worry about, but the web on the front of the manifold is right in the way of the throttle linkage so I'm going to have to file it right back to clear it. Once it stops snowing outside Ill venture down to the garage for some more tools.
Quick offer up to the car and it kinda fits. It's too tight against the 105Speed exhaust manifold to be able to put both parts in at the same time so both of them are going to need a bit of a shave before anything can go back on the engine. It's out by about a mm on each side which explains why the bolts are so damn tight to put back in because they are right against the slots. No matter, Mr File can deal with that.
From the left here is the main jet, emulsion tube, top end air jet and the holder:
Under this cap is the throttle pump jet:
This is the one that empties your petrol tank when you press the accelerator. Yes, it's this one single jet that gives Webers their legendary bad fuel economy:
Because there's four of them that's four times the squirt it shoots in every time you press go compared to other carbs. Fine when you're on the move but it chews petrol in stop start traffic. Thankfully with the smaller chokes I dropped a couple of sizes and it'll probably make a big difference.
The chokes are down the carb barrels and you have to take the trumpets out to access them. The trumpets are secured with these tabs:
Then depending on the age of the DCOE you slacken the screws in the side of the body and slide out the auxilliary venturi (on the right) and the choke shown on the left:
Once back together I had a trial fit. The studs are a bit long but nothing to worry about, but the web on the front of the manifold is right in the way of the throttle linkage so I'm going to have to file it right back to clear it. Once it stops snowing outside Ill venture down to the garage for some more tools.
Quick offer up to the car and it kinda fits. It's too tight against the 105Speed exhaust manifold to be able to put both parts in at the same time so both of them are going to need a bit of a shave before anything can go back on the engine. It's out by about a mm on each side which explains why the bolts are so damn tight to put back in because they are right against the slots. No matter, Mr File can deal with that.
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
- Posts
- 17,718
- Location
- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
I've got a heavy duty coil and a modified distributor with no vacuum advance. I'll get it going with points because this distributor was ok way up past 7000rpm but I've got an Aldon/Lumenition breakerless electronic module in another distributor. I had trouble timing it in on another engine so I'll start with the points and work up from there because it'll really open up the top end with a bit of luck.
There's about 35mm clearance at the closest point, it just looks close in the pictures
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
- Posts
- 17,718
- Location
- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
First major setback yesterday and it was a bit of a blow when I came across it but having thought about it I think I have a plan up my sleeve. Basically when I was fitting up the flipfront I glassed in the original bonnet catch. It worked pretty well and gave me a bit of security because it meant it could only be opened from inside the car:
What I didn't think about was the flipfront hinges in a different place to the bonnet so the catch swings in at quite a shallow angle. I didn't have the heater box fitted at the time and never thought it might foul but it won't close now I've fitted the heater. On top of that although the flipfront looks like the original bonnet it's actually a completely different shape and the heater vent is in a different place. That means with the flipfront closed it's only half over the heater opening and the small bit of glassing I did for the catch sits on the back of the heater box.
I think I can work around it without cutting the catch back off and without losing my heater. I think the answer is to cut a relief out the back of the heater so the catch can pass through it and it'll clear the catch mounting as well.
Today it's been snowing all day and I couldn't bring myself to go out in the cold like yesterday so I brought all the trim up to the flat and got polishing:
It's an interesting mix of chrome, stainless, aluminium and chrome on aluminium. Some of it has come up really nicely but some of it is beyond repair and will never look great, specifically the chrome on aluminium parts because the pitting is deep and the aluminium underneath has corroded away. I'll put it on the car for now because I'm not that bothered about it but as I spot bits on eBay and in the autojumble I'll replace it. I'm not interested in spending huge amounts of money on re-chroming or *** parts because this has been a budget build at the end of the day and it has already cost a HUGE amount more than I thought it would!!!
I leave you with a shiny hubcap pic. Mmmmmm shiny...
What I didn't think about was the flipfront hinges in a different place to the bonnet so the catch swings in at quite a shallow angle. I didn't have the heater box fitted at the time and never thought it might foul but it won't close now I've fitted the heater. On top of that although the flipfront looks like the original bonnet it's actually a completely different shape and the heater vent is in a different place. That means with the flipfront closed it's only half over the heater opening and the small bit of glassing I did for the catch sits on the back of the heater box.
I think I can work around it without cutting the catch back off and without losing my heater. I think the answer is to cut a relief out the back of the heater so the catch can pass through it and it'll clear the catch mounting as well.
Today it's been snowing all day and I couldn't bring myself to go out in the cold like yesterday so I brought all the trim up to the flat and got polishing:
It's an interesting mix of chrome, stainless, aluminium and chrome on aluminium. Some of it has come up really nicely but some of it is beyond repair and will never look great, specifically the chrome on aluminium parts because the pitting is deep and the aluminium underneath has corroded away. I'll put it on the car for now because I'm not that bothered about it but as I spot bits on eBay and in the autojumble I'll replace it. I'm not interested in spending huge amounts of money on re-chroming or *** parts because this has been a budget build at the end of the day and it has already cost a HUGE amount more than I thought it would!!!
I leave you with a shiny hubcap pic. Mmmmmm shiny...
