Any auto electricians assist with this problem?

no, but they carry voltage across them.

The KGM is fine (for all other functions - windows, door locking, interior lights, etc).
I've even been able to check the mirrors (I have two sets of folding mirrors).
I think I will do the continuity (beep) test from the multimeter tomorrow. Based on that, I'm hoping something will come up.....
 
They do but iirc all that will tell you is that the wiring is o.k. i.e. it's reference voltage of sorts, it doesn't confirm a command has been or is being sent.

Btw, 8v at pin 1 is too low surely? That's a 4.0v+ drop which is normally a huge amount in a 12v system. Ideally you want to see a loss of no more than 0.5v, up to 1v on a starter circuit.
 
That's jut on ignition, not running. Does that count? It was 11v at the fuse box.

I've got two options:

Put the KGM wiring back, plug in the old mirror, and check its working ok
Re-Pin exactly as per the PDF, even without the upgrade mirror block.

Only cable I had spare was 5amp. Is that likely to cause an issue?
 
If the circuit is only energised with the ignition on, then yes, ignition on. it should be within 0.5v of battery voltage.

Reverse your multimeter probes: put the positive on the battery + & your negative probe on the pin 1 at the mirror, this will give you the loss in volts rather than the supply voltage which you say is 8v. So it should read around 4v.

If so, that's an issue.

5 amp cable seems a bit thin, isn't this wire supposed to feed both the motor & the linbus circuitry? How thick is the wire that fed the old mirror motors on pins 45/6/7 from the kgm?
 
Something is wrong if you only have 8 v at pin 1 of the mirrors ??? Should be the whole 12 V. (11 at the fuse isn't sounding like a very healthy battery too). Did you remove the connections you made to the KGM when you grounded the mirrors correctly? Sure it's coded properly?
 
Yep coded fine, otherwise the DIS error wouldn't show up. It was 11.8v at the fuse (engine not running, nor ignition on).

This is the 5amp cable stuff from Halfords. The actual mirror wire (in fact, all the wires) are tiny thin.

J52rSOE.jpg


Old mirror wiring as an idea (all other wiring is the same dia.)

Would there be a way to test the mirrors outside of the loop. ie, if I wired directly to 12v would I see anything happen? I don't think i would as the LIN bus controls all the action
 
Following on from my last post, bearing in mind I know nothing about E60s and have only just started dabbling with NCS Expert, having a quick browse of KGM coding options...

As well as the BEIKLAPPEN_B_KOMFORTSCHL you mentioned, there is also ASP_BEIKLAPPEN (folding outside mirrors) and ASP_LIN_SPIEGEL (outside mirrors with lin-bus) that look like they maybe ought to be 'aktiv' for the mirrors to be fully coded.
 
Django x2 said:
Would there be a way to test the mirrors outside of the loop. ie, if I wired directly to 12v would I see anything happen? I don't think i would as the LIN bus controls all the action
Click to expand...

linbus may do the controlling but if it's anything like canbus it still usually needs a separate 12v supply and an earth, depending on the circuit/system. I'm sure a motor draws more current and needs a higher voltage to operate than is provided by can, 3.3 or 5v iirc.

I'm confident you should have near 12v on pin one.
 
Not been able to look today, but had a brain wave on this whilst shopping for 36 Krispy Kremes...

One bit of advice I received was to re-wire the mirror plug to match the colours of the old mirrors. Well surely this is where the problem is:

Old Mirror
Pin 1 - Green - horizontal mirror movement
Pin 2 - Brown - COM / Earth
Pin 3 - Red - vertical mirror movement
Pin 4 - White - mirror heating

New mirror, as it should be:
Pin 1 - Red - Power
Pin 2 - Green - LIN bus
Pin 3 - Brown - Ground

I wired the new mirror plug as:
Pin 1 - Green
Pin 2 - Brown
Pin 3 - Red

Therefore, if the rest of the wiring is correct:
Pin 1 of the mirror, which is actually LIN is going to the 12v supply of the car
Pin 2, Brown, which I assume at the mirror is earth, the car sending LIN across
Pin 3, Red, which at the mirror is power, the car is grounding....

Sound right? Basically, assuming everything else is OK, I just have to re-pin the new mirror back to how it was.
 
Oh right - I was assuming you were wiring everything as per the WDS diagrams you posted and hadn't messed with the plugs. That's most likely the problem then. Just wire them up as per the diagrams and everything will work. It'll obviously never work like you have it. Hopefully correcting the wiring will sort it for you.

Are you still only getting 8V at your mirror power pin though?
 
And did you definitely remove the incorrect ground connections you made to the KGM after you grounded the mirrors correctly?
 
Cos they are not grounds I don't think so could be messing stuff up. If you were measuring your supply voltage across that point it might explain getting 8V instead of 12, for example. Best to check your supply voltage at the mirror plug with the mirror disconnected and to a known good ground (eg door ground).
 
OK, good news. I've wired up again and got the mirrors working. Full mirror movement and folding and all LIN bus errors cleared and haven't come back....but....I can only get them to fold using DIS. Ive checked the coding and it all seems kosher so I'm at a loss now. Will have to dig around. I've added $430 to the VO so its not that. Just one missing piece of the jigsaw somewhere
 
You've coded them to comfort close, right? I only know about E39s but comfort close is when you hold the lock button in, then windows etc close. Maybe you have to hold the button to fold the mirrors? Most likely talking arse though :)
 
No, you are right in that this is the same process. I can close / open the windows using this method (press and hold). Anyway, I've fixed it now. It was odd. Reading the KGM ECU through NCSExpert showed the relevant values as Activ but when I read the NETTODAT file through NCSDummy the comfort close was nicht activ. I set it (and mirror tilt on reverse) to aktiv and all is now working properly. I even tweaked the value so that the mirrors and any open windows close instantly on lock (ie, not holding the button down).

Thanks all for you help :)
 
Hmmmm funny. I vaguely recall reading somewhere about some settings not sticking if you code with the nettodat files instead of the fsw_psw files. I'm still in learning mode though and have only coded with fsw_psw files. Glad you got it working though :)
 
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