Anyone have a Hot Tub?

Sounds about right, our electricity use has gone up by about 250-300 kWh. The hot tub has had a lot of use though.

Lol my 14000 litre pond runs on 58W and thankfully it’s not heated. I have 20,000lph pump that hits 300Wh. 300kWh seems remarkably high! Our boiler for the house is only 30kWh!
 
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Lol my 14000 litre pond runs on 58W and thankfully it’s not heated. I have 20,000lph pump that hits 300Wh. 300kWh seems remarkably high! Our boiler for the house is only 30kWh!

I should have said per month. We usually use about 300, it’s gone up to about 600. That said, we’re also using air con in the summer months too, so that’ll account for some of the usage.
 
Ek! Didn’t think you could run a hot tub off a standard 3 pin. We had to big boy cable outside and an external isolator.

13A hot tub, best we could get during lockdown. It does the job, but the plugs don’t like the heavy electricity draw. Not sure if you can permanently wire in a 13A hot tub or I’d be up for it since the socket needs doing anyway?
 
Constant high draw will do that, I've seen i quite a few times at work where hot tubs and pool heat pumps are powered via a normal socket.

There's no reason why you couldn't permanently wire it in, just remember that it wont be fused. Normally they're just wired into a rotary isolator, and that wired back to the main DB on its own suitable mcb/rcbo
 
There's no reason why you couldn't permanently wire it in, just remember that it wont be fused. Normally they're just wired into a rotary isolator, and that wired back to the main DB on its own suitable mcb/rcbo
Id strongly suggest not doing this.

The flex is likely only 1.5mm which is acceptable for 13A but you can’t get suitable breakers. It might even only be 1.25mm.

If you want to hardwire this, you can swap the faceplate in the socket faceplate in the enclosure for a switched fuse and bring the orange cable into the bottom using a stuffing gland.

As its flex cable you’ll also want to ferrule the ends otherwise you risk a poor connection.

Likewise given how melted it is, the cable going to that socket is likely damaged and will need cutting back if there is enough length or replacing.
 
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Id strongly suggest not doing this.

The flex is likely only 1.5mm which is acceptable for 13A but you can’t get suitable breakers. It might even only be 1.25mm.

If you want to hardwire this, you can swap the faceplate in the socket faceplate in the enclosure for a switched fuse and bring the orange cable into the bottom using a stuffing gland.

As its flex cable you’ll also want to ferrule the ends otherwise you risk a poor connection.

Likewise given how melted it is, the cable going to that socket is likely damaged and will need cutting back if there is enough length or replacing.

I think there is enough cable. Was thinking of something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/knightsb...of-outdoor-switched-fused-spur-with-led/260vf

I’d hope that would fix this issue of plugs not lasting very long.
 
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Yup, that will do the job. I just wanted to steer you away from the suggestion above as the orange cable will likely be thin and not suitable for standard domestic breakers.

It might be worth checking if you can just replace the faceplate in the existing enclosure - cheaper and less work.

They are usually just the standard faceplate you’d use inside screwed into an external enclosure.
 
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Id strongly suggest not doing this.

The flex is likely only 1.5mm which is acceptable for 13A but you can’t get suitable breakers. It might even only be 1.25mm.

If you want to hardwire this, you can swap the faceplate in the socket faceplate in the enclosure for a switched fuse and bring the orange cable into the bottom using a stuffing gland.

As its flex cable you’ll also want to ferrule the ends otherwise you risk a poor connection.

Likewise given how melted it is, the cable going to that socket is likely damaged and will need cutting back if there is enough length or replacing.
I was saying hot tubs, regardless if they're 13a or 32a ones, are normally wired back to a rotary isolator and back to a db on their own supply. I wasnt saying to run that flex back to the board, obviously it would need to be wired in appropriately.
 
I was saying hot tubs, regardless if they're 13a or 32a ones, are normally wired back to a rotary isolator and back to a db on their own supply. I wasnt saying to run that flex back to the board, obviously it would need to be wired in appropriately.
I’d suggest re-reading what you wrote because you literally suggested to wire it in without being fused.

Constant high draw will do that, I've seen i quite a few times at work where hot tubs and pool heat pumps are powered via a normal socket.

There's no reason why you couldn't permanently wire it in, just remember that it wont be fused. Normally they're just wired into a rotary isolator, and that wired back to the main DB on its own suitable mcb/rcbo

You *can’t* just wire it back to a MCB/RCBOs because it will likely have a thin flex cable that needs to be protected by the a 13A fuse.

13A hot tubs are not normally hard wired via rotary isolators on their own circuit. The whole point of them being 13A is that don’t need professional installation and you can plug them into an existing circuit using the 3 pin plug.

*Edit: missed a word*
 
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I’d suggest re-reading what you wrote because you literally suggested to wire it in without being fused.



You *can’t* just wire it back to a MCB/RCBOs because it will likely have a thin flex cable that needs to be protected by the a 13A fuse.

13A hot tubs are not normally hard wired via rotary isolators on their own circuit. The whole point of them being 13A is that don’t need professional installation and you can plug them into an existing circuit using the 3 pin plug.

*Edit: missed a word*
My one runs from a 32A commando type socket back to a sub board. It's an older system now, Hot spring Summit.
 
Yes, I totally get it is not what you meant to say and I only jumped on it because its an open forum and some random that's not even a member could pick this forum up from a google search (as many do), take what's written as literal and burn down their house.

That's the unfortunate thing about wring about eclectics, you have to be very specific as it can be very dangerous as @CaptainRAVE found out and his setup in theory was to spec.
 
There are “EV sockets” available that have been tested to sit at 13A/3kW for long durations (to be used with granny chargers). Might be worth replacing this with one of those if you want to retain the flexibility of a socket over a switched fused spur. Also as mentioned chop a bit of the orange flex off and discard it before replacing the plug top.
 
Ek! Didn’t think you could run a hot tub off a standard 3 pin. We had to big boy cable outside and an external isolator.

The 13A plug in units usually cannot run the heater and pump at the same time, so over time will cool while being used, usually only single pump too.

If you have a dual pump unit which also runs the heater while the pumps are on it will require a dedicated spur, isolator and correctly sized cabling.
 
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I’d get a 32A if we did it again, but the jets are more than powerful enough for our needs. The temperature is only a bit more of a problem in the depths of winter, but you just factor this in and start a couple of degrees higher than normal. You’ll lose about 0.5C per 20-30mins when it’s really cold without the heater on. It was more than worth the compromise to have a hot tub from pretty much the start of the lockdowns.

Have an electrician coming Wednesday to put the hot tub into a fused spur as posted above and to add a separate new outdoor socket. Just hope the hot tub is ok, it actually hasn’t lost too much heat. I may even be able to salvage the water, at worst I can probably do a partial water change or a good shock.
 
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