Attempting to water cool again after 20 year gap - needing some advice please

malccy said:
I enabled XMP and seemed to work okay.

One thing that I should have done (realised afterwards) is to test that the pcie riser cable worked with the motherboard. I did not see a pciex16 gen setting in the bios but will need to do this before I put the motherboard in the case.
I shall put some photos up of general case layout ideas and get some opinions before I commit.
Click to expand...
It's worth checking the riser works
There may be bifurcation settings in the bios
Even if it ran at x8 you wouldn't notice the difference
It's unlikely to be x8 if not using a lot of m2/sata drives
Or anything else that needs pcie lanes
 
Aquasuite can look daunting to begin with but it clicks with a bit of playing.

On the left will be a heading for your quadro, click that. Then hit sensors. First four are your quadro temp sensors. Give your water temp one a sensible name.

Now hit fans. Look under mode. You can try power preset to get a feel for noise and performance, get a bit of paper and write down what you think will be a good min and max setting. You can also do a traditional curve or I use a target temp.

For my target temp I selected the temp from the sensor as the controller source then the temperature is what you want to keep the water temp at. Controller speed is how quick they ramp.

Now go to fan setup underneath mode and set the min and max power outputs and the fallback speed. You've now got your fans trying to maintain the water temp but staying between the power outputs you've set.

This will be saved to the device and it'll keep doing it's thing as long as it's getting power.

Now the fun stuff but for this you'll need the aquasuite service running in the background and probably need the usb cable in. Soft sensors are values that aquasuite can read from your other hardware. Virtual sensors are created under the playground tab and can be combinations of more or less anything that you put together in a sort of flow chart with operators inbetween.

Then there are output options for logging and for other programs, if you can imagine it you can probably do it. I run my fans and pump using target temps but taking room temp into account, so it lets my water temp hit 9c over ambient before anything ramps up.

Then finally you have the overview pages where you can see what your quadro is doing or create your own with graphs or bar charts.

Hopefully this is an imgur link with screenshots.

imgur.com

Aquasuite basic setup - Album on Imgur

Discover the magic of the internet at Imgur, a community powered entertainment destination. Lift your spirits with funny jokes, trending memes, entertaining gifs, inspiring stories, viral videos, and so much more from users like nottarquin.
imgur.com imgur.com
 
Update:
Wanted to check that that vertical gpu/pcie riser cable worked but initially it did not want to play nicely and after switching to the 1060 (that did work) it then accepted the 1080ti WC. The bios did have some pcie gen settings but were found to set to auto - I set these to Gen 3. I have noticed though that with the 1060 installed I get the Gigabyte logo when booting and then the Windows screen, strangely however with the 1080ti WC fitted I just get a blank screen until the Windows screen.

Windows itself feels a bit flaky with having troubles installing updates. After I activated Windows with a new key, I then did a shutdown and decided to fit the Barrows CPU water block i'd bought.



I think I have connected the CPU blocks rgb to the correct connector to the bottom of the motherboard to its RGB connector (the block rgb wire goes to a 4-pin and then an adaptor wire connector takes it then to a 3-pin 5v).

I've also spent some time attaching some elbows and connectors to the gpu water block.

Next step, start fitting parts to the case....
 
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Take your time
And leak tester at each stage
That way if something isn't right you'll know
Which part it is
Can leak tester cpu on its own
Just be gentle it takes very little air to fill a cpu block

Got all the red coolant out mine yesterday
Not easy doing it in situ
But now it appears I put the cpu block micro fins vertical
Instead of horizontal and got very little flow
One of the Allen key bolts on the bottom of the block has rounded off
Just trying to decide whether to risk disassembly of it
When it might not screw back in tight enough to seal the block

Take plenty photos as you go along
They can be useful
 
Thanks Mcnumpty2323.

What did you use to clean the red coolant out of the block?

That Allen key bolt sounds a bit of a pain. I think you know you have to disassemble it; hoping it will be a smooth process for you.
 
Just used an old toothbrush
And a Bit of soap and water
There's one channel in the distro where the red coolant
Has stained it
Yet weirdly all the rest of its fine
Probably have to flush it with mayhem blitz,ek loop cleaner etc
If want the red off
For the moment it's not affecting functionality
And I can't see the front of the distro anyway as pc is to the side
So that's a job for another day

Yeah that Allen key bolt won't ever come off now
Totally rounded it off putting it back in
Was actually surprised it passed the leak test
Didn't think I had managed to tighten it enough if I am honest

Will have to pick up a spare am4 block just in case
Though now coolant is probably 95% clear or more
Not likely the micro fins in cpu block will get bunged up again
But having a spare won't hurt just in case

Was surprising having the micro fins in the wrong orientation
Had such a big effect on flow
50/50 chance of putting it in the wrong way
But lucky me managed it
To be fair in my defence it's a perfect square of copper
So can go in any orientation but no marking on it to tell you
That's why taking photos of everything helps
Looked back on my phone and found a picture showing horizontal
Not vertical and found an image on the Internet to confirm it

The joys of custom watercooling :cry:
Your probably wishing you hadn't started yours now :cry:
 
Here are a couple pics of my attempts at doing fittings for the 1080ti. I have used rotary elbows on both sides of the gpu thinking this will assist with the soft tubing routing.




(Top view of power connectors)
I do not quite understand how I can connect to the EK block lighting, as it appears covered by the block itself - am I missing something?
Can I also ask if 3m of tubing is enough for this build? I've thought of buying more, but black 13/10 soft tubing appears to be sold out everywhere. Prefer to not spend any more money on this build to be honest.
 
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Yeah rotary fittings make life a lot easier
Usually only need 1 x 90 degree if going in one side
And out the other side of the block
Though we don't know your tubing route
So what you have there may well work fine
There's no real one way to do it Though whatever works best
For you is what's right

Usually would be a cable coming from the block
If it has integrated lighting
Not sure what that little connector is there to right of the 8 pins
Might be a fan header when the air cooler is on there instead of the block
Or could be for lighting i guess
But it's not usually a connector usually the lighting wire
Just goes straight into the blocks leds

Edit 3m should be enough usually
Though the size of the pc case reflects if will use more
Or use less and amount of radiators etc
 
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Hi, another little update. Have had a difficult day with a lot of pain but have managed to do a little.

Before:






I've put two Arctic fans at the front and fitted these to the alphacool 240mm radiator. I am considering rotating the radiator so that the ports are at the top, as this would make it easier for the roof radiator to link to it. I can see why WC builds take so long, as the planning and routing can take time to re-configure.

The motherboard came with no io shield but I managed to buy a 3D printed one from eBay - unfortunately this broke as I was gently pushing it in the rear case gap. I've managed to somehow re-stick it together (the thin outer frame had come away from the main centre part).

I have also fitted the 24-pin and cpu power braided extensions as well as the dvd drive, 1tb sata ssd and cables.

Next step is fitting the roof radiator and fans.
 
There's a plus and a minus for front radiator port orientation
Put them at the top means shorter tube runs
Put them at the bottom means you use some more tubing
But your T or Y or whatever with multiple ports
Can go at the bottom of the radiator
Meaning you can attach your drain valve there
Which is the absolute lowest point in the loop

Cross flow/xflow radiator on the front
Would have been my preference
Straight in top from roof radiator and straight out
The bottom with drain valve
No long tubing run required

Yes it's time consuming to build and plan it
When you have moderate to severe health problems too
It makes it an awful lot more difficult
Taking longer and getting it right first time should be
Your approach
Means you're less likely to complete it
Then realise hey this really isn't working as ideally as it could

And if you still have a pc to use while building
There's less pressure to finish it as fast as you can
If its your only pc then yeah it's hard not to put pressure on
Yourself to get it finished
 
G'day. Another small update. Have run into a few problems/discoveries and have had to make 'adaptions'.

I've discovered that the order in which a wc build is put together is very important.



Having the pump/res attached to the front radiator has unfortunately meant that the EK radiator which was going into the roof of the case with its barbs on the right-side towards the front of the case will not actually fit in this direction due the top of the reservoir blocking the barbs. So, after some head scratching I have now planned the EK radiator to have its barbs towards the back of the case, removing ability to have an exhaust fan at the rear of the case and only one fan can be attached to the EK radiator in order for it to fit.



Also, routing of the tubing has had to be thought out differently, and I now plan for the exit tubing from the EK radiator to go out of the top gap above the motherboard and run down the right-hand side of the case to the front stopping on the way to connect to Y connector and switch valve connector. The tubing will then route back into the bottom-front of the case and attach to the front radiator. This is definitely not a great solution, and have concerns about the tubing kinking on the case edge as it goes back into the case.



I shall have to have a think as to how I can try to prevent the tubing to kink on the case edge but am hoping that if I get the length just right going up to the top radiator the firmness/tightness will keep it from kinking; we shall see.
 
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Yeah adaptations are pretty normal to occur
Unless you have a case that's specifically suited to
Watercooling
And there's already a basic list of compatible parts
Known that work

Overcoming the obstacles while it may be
Somewhat frustrating
It also builds your experience
Rather than a bog standard build where you
Don't learn very much because everything will just fit anyway

Personal choice
I would have a T,Y piece on the port bottom right
Of the front radiator
And the drain valve on that
Its still lowest point but more importantly
It's just easier to access than in the back
No need to remove back panel
Which depending how the pc is situated might involve
Having to disconnect everything connected to the rear io ports
Then rotate the pc around and remove the rear panel

To stop kinking options
Anti kinking coil or
Use fittings on that bit or
Use a wider bore tube and slide it over the tubing
If that makes sense
A bit of tubing inside another bit of tubing
Strengthens it to prevent kinks
Last option rethink if there's any other way of doing it

Would a cross flow/x flow radiator at the top
Make life easier?
Gpu out goes to top radiator left hand side
Tubing and fitting comes out right hand side of top radiator
So no long tube run along length of top radiator
 
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Thanks for replies, help and suggestions.

I'm unfortunately now over budget and cannot afford to go for a crossflow radiator but can understand now how useful they are.

The route I'm thinking is Pump/Res -->GPU-->CPU-->Top EK Radiator-->T Piece/valve-->Front Alphacool Radiator.

I was initially planning to have the T piece to the pump but due to space constraints and re-routing of the top radiator tubing I thought the opportunity to hide it for a cleaner build shouldn't be wasted. I may well regret this idea but for now I'm liking it hidden.

The clear tubing that I bought for testing is a lot sturdier than the black XSPC tubing I am using in the build. Thank you Mcnumpty2323 for the ant-kink suggestions. Being out of budget and with no larger tubing, I might have to Blue Peter a 'make-do' fix. I am also out of rotary fittings and also could have done with a double female connector, so I'm having to manage with just the few standard connectors that I have remaining.

I have a feeling that seeing the tube routing from the top radiator going down the side of the case to the T piece will either make me cringe, then change it or I will just be happy that it is out of sight!

Edit: Just done a Google for some ant-kinking ideas and the best I saw was springs. I recall using soft tubing many years ago that had a metal spring running inside the whole length of tubing. Would a 10cm-15cm spring wrapped around the outside of the tubing where I am concerned about kinking help or sort the problem do you think?
 
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malccy said:
Thanks for replies, help and suggestions.

I'm unfortunately now over budget and cannot afford to go for a crossflow radiator but can understand now how useful they are.

The route I'm thinking is Pump/Res -->GPU-->CPU-->Top EK Radiator-->T Piece/valve-->Front Alphacool Radiator.

I was initially planning to have the T piece to the pump but due to space constraints and re-routing of the top radiator tubing I thought the opportunity to hide it for a cleaner build shouldn't be wasted. I may well regret this idea but for now I'm liking it hidden.

The clear tubing that I bought for testing is a lot sturdier than the black XSPC tubing I am using in the build. Thank you Mcnumpty2323 for the ant-kink suggestions. Being out of budget and with no larger tubing, I might have to Blue Peter a 'make-do' fix. I am also out of rotary fittings and also could have done with a double female connector, so I'm having to manage with just the few standard connectors that I have remaining.

I have a feeling that seeing the tube routing from the top radiator going down the side of the case to the T piece will either make me cringe, then change it or I will just be happy that it is out of sight!
Click to expand...
Very long post by now so forgotten
What size was the top radiator ?
I do have a 360mm crossflow here
Or could you put 360mm crossflow on the front instead ?
That would save the long tube run down inside
The back of the case
Making life a lot easier


You could slice open a bit of the clear tubing
Then put it around the black tubing
Not as strong as being able to slide some tubing over it
But if you put the sliced open part on the inside of the curve
Bending shouldn't open it up too much
On the outside of the curve yeah it would open up
 
Thank you for your kind offer, Mcnumpty2323, but unfortunately the case can only manage a 240mm radiator both at the top and front of the case. I have just tried wrapping a bit of the clear tubing I have (cut length ways) and covered the black tubing and does certainly help a bit.

Your replies and suggestions inspired me to do a little more on the build. The tubing from the top EK radiator going out the top of the case to then go down to the T connector does work, although it is not the most refined way and I shall have to do some kinking prevention as the tubing hits the top of the motherboard tray area. I've also fitted tubing on the top radiator barb aimed at the cpu block which will not look the cleanest as I will have to have quite a large arc going to the cpu block to avoid kinking. Thicker and stronger soft tubing on next build, me thinks, unless I get a big rush of self-confidence and go for hard-tubing. I don't think I shall ever have the confidence or nerves for hard-tubing.
 
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malccy said:
Thank you for your kind offer, Mcnumpty2323, but unfortunately the case can only manage a 240mm radiator both at the top and front of the case. I have just tried wrapping a bit of the clear tubing I have (cut length ways) and covered the black tubing and does certainly help a bit.

Your replies and suggestions inspired me to do a little more on the build. The tubing from the top EK radiator going out the top of the case to then go down to the T connector does work, although it is not the most refined way and I shall have to do some kinking prevention as the tubing hits the top of the motherboard tray area. I've also fitted tubing on the top radiator barb aimed at the cpu block which will not look the cleanest as I will have to have quite a large arc going to the cpu block to avoid kinking. Thicker and stronger soft tubing on next build, me thinks, unless I get a big rush of self-confidence and go for hard-tubing. I don't think I shall ever have the confidence or nerves for hard-tubing.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately don't have a 240mm cross flow
Or would have given you it

Yeah something like ek zmt 16mm/10mm tubing (actually 9.5mm)
Is pretty sturdy but still relatively flexible/bendable without
It kinking
The ek 16mm/11mm is definitely to be avoided
Sounds like a tiny difference but it's so flimsy
Compared to 16/10mm
Really surprising ones much much stronger than the other
With such a small difference

If you had chosen 16/10mm would have a vastly bigger
Availability of fittings Compared to 13/10mm
But hindsight is of course always easy

Hard Tubing looks very nice with straight lines
But makes maintenance/upgrades an awful lot harder
Considered it in the past
But with soft tubing for example I can upgrade /or repaste my cpu
Without needing to drain anything
Hard Tubing i would have to drain and remove some tubing too
 
Final update for today.

Good job I had some of the stronger clear tubing, as there would be no other way for me to attach the flow monitor I have. The black tubing would definitely not be strong enough to hold up the monitor.



Probably if I had some better and more suitable attachments/connectors I could have attached the flow monitor directly to the gpu fitting which would look a lot better, but I only have like three elbows connectors, two male to male connectors and a couple simple male connectors remaining which are no use with this problem. At least I had enough fittings to do the basics. I need to read up on other connectors for possibly next time...
 
Just to double check
Are you running the flow in clockwise direction?
Think that's the orientation the barrow flow meter
Is set to out of the box
Though that's worth verifying

And first attempt
Functionality is more important than looks
When you're not using all new matching parts
Once the basic loops up and running
You can always improve it later
 
The propeller in the flow monitor is on the right-hand side, and double-checking the website showed it to be this way out-of-the-box.

In the morning light, I'm looking at the clear tubing add-on to the gpu/flow monitor connection and am unhappy about it. Being at the front of the case on a vertical gpu stand, it will be quite prominent. I need to find a better way to attach the flow monitor without having to use some clear tubing for strength.
 
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