Bathroom balls up - actual bonding strength of OB1 sealant / other construction adhesives?

Caporegime
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13 May 2003
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Location
Warwickshire
Hi all

I made a booboo in my current bathroom project. I need to hang a double sink wall-hung vanity unit on the wall and although I did put wooden battens behind the wall to mount it onto, I miscalculated and the wood is too low for the required bracket height, meaning I only have tiles + plugs to mount into. This is insufficient as the weight of the unit + sink is already pulling the unit away from the wall slightly.

This is a major **** up but my options to fix it appear to be:

1. Remove tile(s) and install wood at the correct location. Highly undesirable as everything has been grouted.
2. Use plugs in the tiles and liberally apply OB1 / other construction adhesive to the brackets, vanity, and sink, and hope this is enough to bond it to the tiles.

WWYD?
 
I'd do it properly. There's no way I'd be happy with job not done as well as I could have done, especially knowing the sink might come away from the wall.

Of course you could just YOLO it.
 
Surely the unit is >600mm and you can find some studs to get a fixing into.

Yes it's 1200mm wide but the location of the studs doesn't match up with the location of the unit's fixing brackets, which are right at the edge of each side. Maybe I could put screws through the centre into the stud but this section isn't structural / designed to be mounted through.

Put proper support in now while you have the chance. No worrying then.
Very sensible but the wall is finished and this would involve destroying the wall, retiling, and regrouting. For a perfect finish, probably a day's work.

What I want to know is - just how good are these modern construction adhesives? If they're that good, rawl plugs in the tiles combined with lots of glue should cause me no issues right?
 
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Can you batten the wall and the recess the brackets in a bit?

Edit: Id want mechanical fixings no matter what personally.
 
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You can get toggle fittings that hold over 100kg in plasterboard. They will hold it, adhesive won't due to the cantilevered load. You can expect it to lean forward slightly but a silicone bead will cover it. A bit of adhesive behind won't cause any harm..

Surprised a 1200mm unit only has 2 fixings.
 
Whats the surface and room of the board that backs onto it, I think from your photos in your other thread its a stud partition wall?

If it was me I think I would be going through that, make good the bathroom from there and then fix that wall. Its only plaster board by the look of it.
If its just a plain wall then your going to find making that good easy and your going to be able to fix the sink properly as you planned with a new piece of inserted timber in the stud wall.
 
What about some heavy duty L brackets underneath to support it. You can get some that are designed for floating benches so should hold a decent amount of weight. Could even do it so the back of L brackets are sitting on the floor screwed to wall giving extra strength.

I used some to make a floating bench in someone's garden so they can take the weight of people sitting on them. They were off Etsy, they go up to 600m length so plenty of lengths to suit sink unit.

Thats if you went the leg route but didn't want anything really showing.

OB1 and CT1 are great adhesives. I fixed a concrete dog that fell of a wall pillar with a combo of OB1 and some concrete adhesive. It fell off again, pillar is about 10Ft and it broke in a different spot so the repair held the fall. The OB1 was the main bonding, concrete one just to fill cracks and blend in. Outside too all year so in the rain etc.
 
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Whats the surface and room of the board that backs onto it, I think from your photos in your other thread its a stud partition wall?

If it was me I think I would be going through that, make good the bathroom from there and then fix that wall. Its only plaster board by the look of it.
If its just a plain wall then your going to find making that good easy and your going to be able to fix the sink properly as you planned with a new piece of inserted timber in the stud wall.

This would be the way if you can get to it from the other room!

CT1 is pretty crazy and I’ve stuck some weight up with it but I don’t think I’d trust if for a double vanity
 
Whats the surface and room of the board that backs onto it, I think from your photos in your other thread its a stud partition wall?

If it was me I think I would be going through that, make good the bathroom from there and then fix that wall. Its only plaster board by the look of it.
If its just a plain wall then your going to find making that good easy and your going to be able to fix the sink properly as you planned with a new piece of inserted timber in the stud wall.
Great idea! If the OP can do this, it’s the ideal solution
 
Yes it's 1200mm wide but the location of the studs doesn't match up with the location of the unit's fixing brackets, which are right at the edge of each side. Maybe I could put screws through the centre into the stud but this section isn't structural / designed to be mounted through.


Very sensible but the wall is finished and this would involve destroying the wall, retiling, and regrouting. For a perfect finish, probably a day's work.

What I want to know is - just how good are these modern construction adhesives? If they're that good, rawl plugs in the tiles combined with lots of glue should cause me no issues right?

I wouldnt trust them with a heavy sink...

One days work for peace of mind would be my choice.
 
Is one days work really that big a deal in the bigger scheme of things?

Doing the wall in the room behind is still probably the best part days work when you consider filling, repainting and tea breaks.
 
Got a link to the Vanity unit?
Can't find the original retailer link any longer but it's this one:


Sounds like consensus is that I can't chance my arm with adhesives and I should go through the bedroom behind and make a proper fixing.

Very sensible, goddamnit. What a stupid ******* mistake with all the measuring and planning.
 
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