Big Bike Thread

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I have to say, I think the Elixir's may be better than the Hopes. Well they were better than my Mini Mono's.

edit - THIS:

I wouldn't hold your breath.... I've tried both - one of my friends has the Avid's, the other the Hope's.

The V2's definitely have power, but there just doesn't seem to be enough bite (even with the adjustments).
 
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Anyone know where I can buy a set of Jagwire Tubetops in white?. Had a look online and I see places like JE James do the black ones but only places I can find white coloured ones are in the USA. :confused:
 
Has anyone here used the ride2work/cycle to work scheme through their employer to purchase a bike? I've just been looking into it and it's confused the hell out of me.

I used a calculator to see what the costs would be. On a £375 bike it said saving of 41% so i would only pay approx £20 a month out of my salary, but then it goes on to say at the end of the year my employer can then choose to pass the bike ownership over to me at a fair market value? :confused:

Surely once the amount paid of market value is added on top of what i had already paid i will end up paying full cost for the bike anyway :confused:
 
Wonder if you kind people would help me out..

Looking at getting a new bike as I have had my current bike since 2000!! Not looking for anything too amazing but don't fancy buying one and then having to buy another one later on if you know what I mean. Would rather spend a bit extra for something that I would keep longer. Not going to be doing anything too extreme as I don't do jumps, etc.. Bit of a newbie to all of this if I'm honest!

Ideally anything is an upgrade from what I have at the moment and i'd be looking to spend no more than £450. Came across these two:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/hardrock-sport-disc-2010-mountain-bike-ec019399
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/claud-butler/cape-wrath-01-2010-mountain-bike-ec022442

First one has some good reviews, is the Clad worth the extra? Have been told to keep get as light as possible within budget and that disk brakes are the way to go. Is there any difference between mechanical and hydraulic? Any other recommendations would be welcome :)

I wouldn't waste money on a Claud Butler, who're a reknowned budget brand. Go for the hardrock, you at least have a decent frame to slap upgrades on.
 
I used a calculator to see what the costs would be. On a £375 bike it said saving of 41% so i would only pay approx £20 a month out of my salary, but then it goes on to say at the end of the year my employer can then choose to pass the bike ownership over to me at a fair market value? :confused:

Fair market value is usually either nothing, or a token gesture.
 
well the Gov are were going to change the rules and the final value should reflect accordingly!! Schemes are all differant ours is C2W and the final value is £35, end off. Max to spend on bike however is £500! and no topping up. Which is what was meant to happen unlike some of the stories I`ve read on the net.
 
Finally got my 36T chainring, and from another place some 7.5wt shock oil to replace the 10wt the previous owner of the forks had put in, so im finally getting the bike to where i want it.

All fitted and oil changed, my word the forks actually feel like they are working now lol and the 36t chainring has improved mid range gears, not running out of gas now.
 
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RS Lyrik

New forks arrived today :D

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cracking, sorted for the DMH ride then :) cheers. why don't road riders use mtb spds then?

Because they use road ones?. :confused: :p :D

I dunno m8 - I have Shimano M520's on my Cube Acid hardtail but I know that some folk use them on road bikes too. On my Pinarello road bike I have Ultegra 6620's. I think the cleats are different or something with certain road SPD's?. Comparing my 520's and 6620 cleats they are definitely completely different!.
 
Road peddles use three hole SPD-SL cleats that are a lot larger than MTB SPDs:

cleatcompare1.jpg


i'm sure you can guess which is which :)

Edit: to clarify there are other versions of the cleats for different peddles but the two/three holes have been standardized so you can either get "Road" shoes which usually come with both 2 & 3 hole layouts and "MTB" shoes that tend to have a more recessed cleat and only two holes.
 
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Road shoes have a stiff non-flexible sole for better power transfer and a larger cleat to help accomplish this. MTB cleats are smaller to help with the more likely walking.
 
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