Big Bike Thread
- Thread starter Breamy
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http://www.mtb-news.de/news/2011/05/23/intense-tracer-2-2011-fahrbericht-mit-video/
Chrome translated it for me
Have a look at the last line of the Butcher review:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/categ...oduct/review-santa-cruz-butcher-r-am-11-41989
It seems that the term "epic fail" is universal. Recommending a DHX Air? WTF!
I can recommend the EVO NN's.
Would be good to know how the 2 compounds compare. 
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Soldato
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- Doncaster, S.Yorks
After replacing my headset with a complete new one, i still have a damed clicking noise on forward and backward motion, ie, hold the brake and push bike forward, click, pull it back, click. All internals of the fork are spot on, and hardly a breath of play in the bushings, so my only conclusion is the Steerer-Crown interface is coming loose - Bad side of all this, Lost the invoice, and my local bike shop has just gone out of buisness this week 
so all my options of getting them done under warrenty are slim to none .
Should add, the click is also present in riding too, anytime you hit a root or rock, and causes the back an forth motion - Eliminated the seatpost+seat by removing them and riding around, crank is all tight, plus it happens when not on pedals standing flat on the floor and the Brake method. - Not the wheels, tried a different set of wheels, nor the brakes, disconnected them and pushed it up against the wall and same thing.
so all my options of getting them done under warrenty are slim to none .Should add, the click is also present in riding too, anytime you hit a root or rock, and causes the back an forth motion - Eliminated the seatpost+seat by removing them and riding around, crank is all tight, plus it happens when not on pedals standing flat on the floor and the Brake method. - Not the wheels, tried a different set of wheels, nor the brakes, disconnected them and pushed it up against the wall and same thing.
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Soldato
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- Wiltshire
Emailed them at 9:30am got an email and an update 5.20pm saying the its shipped.
Hopefully I'll have the parts tomorrow as the bike has no brakes.
After replacing my headset with a complete new one, i still have a damed clicking noise on forward and backward motion, ie, hold the brake and push bike forward, click, pull it back, click. All internals of the fork are spot on, and hardly a breath of play in the bushings, so my only conclusion is the Steerer-Crown interface is coming loose - Bad side of all this, Lost the invoice, and my local bike shop has just gone out of buisness this week
Should add, the click is also present in riding too, anytime you hit a root or rock, and causes the back an forth motion - Eliminated the seatpost+seat by removing them and riding around, crank is all tight, plus it happens when not on pedals standing flat on the floor and the Brake method. - Not the wheels, tried a different set of wheels, nor the brakes, disconnected them and pushed it up against the wall and same thing.
I hate to ask a daft question but have you tried lowering the stem height so it grips more of the steerer tube?
Both my last 2 bikes have had this issue which I resolved by removing 1 spacer from the stack which dropped the stem and then putting that spacer on top of the stem before bolting the top cap back on and tightening the stem bolts.
Soldato
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- 27 Apr 2004
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- Doncaster, S.Yorks
As far as i can tell yes, quite hard to push them down and rock it back and forth with my air pressures. The rocking back and forth is just the easiest way without going out and riding to tell, But any click on the front end has me hunting as i hate noises full stop on my bike.
Thats exactly what mine is like at the moment, 3 under and 1 over the stem.
So is the steerer tube above or level with the top of the stem or some way below it? Mine was quite a bit below meaning that after a short while it would work its way loose.
Soldato
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- 27 Apr 2004
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- Doncaster, S.Yorks
Ill try that later today.
Nah there is roughly 4mm between the top of the spacer and the top of the tube, ideal gap ive been told?
Sounds about right to me.
My idea was as weescott says, undo, check everything is in the right place, tighen back up and check again.
Didnt have a budget. Not had to buy tyres for a bike for many yrs £40 sounds reasonable next to tyres for my SLK55 AMG.
The Rocket's seem to roll really well and with my poor fitness i could do with all the help i can get But at 36 I could do with not falling off so much.
I reckon Ive got a week or two left on my rockets so will wait for your Judgement on the pacestar NN
don't count on it - my crc stuff was dispatched @ 10am yesterday 1st class and nothing has turned up yet. Tomorrow will be 7 days since the original order - poor in my book
Daft Q, I have a very old steel GT avalanche frame that I think I want to do something with, just trying to figure out the size.
It is :
50cm from centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube.
55cm from the headset to the middle of the seat tube.
Would I be right in guessing this being a medium frame around 19"?
There's the geometry to take into account I guess as well, but it's very old so not sure if the frame is too small for me to build up for a general round town bike.
It is :
50cm from centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube.
55cm from the headset to the middle of the seat tube.
Would I be right in guessing this being a medium frame around 19"?
There's the geometry to take into account I guess as well, but it's very old so not sure if the frame is too small for me to build up for a general round town bike.
Soldato
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- 17 Oct 2002
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Sounds like roughly a 19" which would normally be considered a Large.
Cheers
will probably look at getting the paint removed and re-sprayed. Anyone have any recommendations online? I'll have to get it checked out as well, I'm afraid I am no materials scientist.Haven't ridden my bike in over a year because my weight is too far forward - basically, I have to put too much weight on the bars when riding with the saddle at the right pedalling height. Cue me using my lower back to artificially keep weight off the bars and getting tired very quickly. This happens going down and on the straight. Fantastic pedalling uphill though with my 130mm fork
This is a problem that's been there since I got the bike - I just didn't pay much attention to it when the bike was new. Or it could be from upgrading my fork to a Tora 318 with the full 130mm of travel (the bike is an 09 Merida Matts 60D and the original fork was a Suntour XCM that had 100mm...shudder...).
Could this be fixed by a shorter stem and riser bars to bring my hands closer my body? Or is this a problem with my frame having too long a top tube for me?
sorry to quote myself
anyone?
Short answer: Yes
More helpful post: How tall are you? What size frame? How long a stem? Will the saddle go forward on the rails? Can you post a picture of you sitting on the bike from the side? There are a lot of variables to take into consideration.
More helpful post: How tall are you? What size frame? How long a stem? Will the saddle go forward on the rails? Can you post a picture of you sitting on the bike from the side? There are a lot of variables to take into consideration.
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