BMW 325i 2005 misfire

These codes were present on the car, but no engine management light appeared yesterday and whilst it was nearly cutting out at idle, I was able to drive it home at motorway speeds.

Screenshot-20240322-183635.png


I cleared the codes, took the car round the block and it drove normally. Codes haven't reappeared.
 
having all 6 report faulty is unlucky , i would be having a look at the wiring to see if dodgy earths connections etc.
condition of the wiring ....
 
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Is there any point booking it to an indy for a look over? Or are they not going to be able to diagnose anything if the codes haven't returned and it seems to run normally?

I can't see any wiring issues, and if there was a wiring issue why would it have occured last night for the first time then be fine after the ignition was cycled?
 
danlightbulb said:
appeared yesterday and whilst it was nearly cutting out at idle,
Click to expand...
are the diagnostics off of torque(was it) app. comprehensive, with live data ?
cam sensor's are not so (wasn't) hard to replace if it was that as i posted .. I 'guessed' in my case

BMW E46 Camshaft Sensor Testing | BMW 325i (2001-2005), BMW 325Xi (2001-2005), BMW 325Ci (2001-2006), BMW 325ti (2001-2004) | Pelican Parts Technical Article

This tech article will show how to test BMW E46 camshaft position sensors.
www.pelicanparts.com
...
You can check if your camshaft is currently functioning using your scan tool. If you view live VANOS data, there are values for camshaft angle (green arrow). When a sensor is operating properly, this angle will change when engine RPM is raised and lowered. If this doesn't change, it indicates a fault. This test is best performed when you have a camshaft sensor code as other DME system faults can cause camshaft angle not to change Testing with DVOM (sensor installed)
 
jpaul said:
are the diagnostics off of torque(was it) app. comprehensive, with live data ?
cam sensor's are not so (wasn't) hard to replace if it was that as i posted .. I 'guessed' in my case

BMW E46 Camshaft Sensor Testing | BMW 325i (2001-2005), BMW 325Xi (2001-2005), BMW 325Ci (2001-2006), BMW 325ti (2001-2004) | Pelican Parts Technical Article

This tech article will show how to test BMW E46 camshaft position sensors.
www.pelicanparts.com
...
You can check if your camshaft is currently functioning using your scan tool. If you view live VANOS data, there are values for camshaft angle (green arrow). When a sensor is operating properly, this angle will change when engine RPM is raised and lowered. If this doesn't change, it indicates a fault. This test is best performed when you have a camshaft sensor code as other DME system faults can cause camshaft angle not to change Testing with DVOM (sensor installed)
Click to expand...

I couldnt use torque app I used another free one but it seemed to work fine with the obd reader I bought and had good reviews.

I didn't look at live data I just looked at the error codes.

Mines an e91.
 
Is it worth replacing things proactively? I could spend £500 on some bits that I could fit DIY:

6x ingnition coils
2x vanos solenoids
2x camshaft sensors
1x mass air flow sensor.

Or wait to see if problem happens again?
 
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Just had a good look over the car.

It starts and runs, no error codes.

The cylinder 1 ignition coil is different to the others, looks to be wrong type.

The coolant was really low I had to top up 1 litre. The liquid appears very brown. Car was serviced 5 months ago so should have been checked then. The water pump had failed previously and been replaced by previous owner so coolant should only be a couple of years old.

Can't see any evidence of oil leaks or coolant leaks. There has always been a bot of smoke from the exhaust, worse when cold, and it does use 0.5 litres of oil a month.
 
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checked I had just changed crankshaft sensor not cam .. my most expensive 30/32mm facom spanner for fan contributed to job, & used in double wrenching
 
What do you think of this coolant that I withdrew from the car?

It looks pink normally but if you shone a light in it it looks more brown. I can't see any particles.

PXL-20240323-165808161.jpg


PXL-20240323-165819297.jpg


I had to put a litre in which took it max, so if was maybe half a litre off min level.
 
original bm was blue, I subsequently used eurocarparts triple qx blue that met bm standard ... but thought the red was the same formula just for the girlsmatrix

e: ok at least in eurocarparts incarnation blue is good/better for aluminium radiators - changed that a few years back

    • TRIPLE QX Blue Ready Mixed Antifreeze/Coolant 1Ltr​


      Ready Mix Ethylene Glycol based Antifreeze with Winter Protection up to -36 C upon dilution

    • Blue Ready Mixed Antifreeze/Coolant - 5ltr
    • Suitable for all engine types including aluminium, and conforms to British Standards BS6580 (2010) and ASTM D 3306 & ASTM D 4985, SAE J 1034, AFNOR NF R 15601.
    • It can be left in the system as a coolant and rust inhibitor for up to a maximum of 2 years in accordance with vehicle manufacturers requirements.



    TRIPLE QX Red Ready Mixed Antifreeze/Coolant 1Ltr​


    Ready Mix Ethylene glycol based Antifreeze, incorporating the latest in Organic Acid Technology (OAT) with winter protection upto -36 C upon dilution


    • Red (Ready Mixed) Antifreeze/Coolant - 5ltr
    • Suitable for all engine types conforming to British Standards BS6580 (2010) and VW G-12/TL-774D & VW G-12+/TL-774F, MAN 248 & MAN 324, MB 325.3, Renault 41-01-002.
    • It can be left in the system as a coolant and rust inhibitor for up to a maximum of 5 years in accordance with vehicle manufacturers requirements.
 
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jpaul said:
original bm was blue, I subsequently used eurocarparts triple qx blue that met bm standard ... but thought the red was the same formula just for the girlsmatrix
Click to expand...

The stuff already in the car was red. It had the water pump done a couple years ago by the previous owner so I guess they used red then.

Perhaps I do a flush and refill in the summer if the car hasn't died by then.

I pulled the 6 ignition coils out, one is silver metal body, a few black plastic ones and a couple grey plastic ones. Only one had a part number on 0224504463.

Can't see part numbers on eurocarparts.
 
Car won't start. Won't even turn over. 11.3v on the battery. Been cleaning it this morning with doors open, could have drained it?

Perhaps this is the problem?

However it was running fine yesterday when I was messing with it.

I'm charging it now.
 
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Low battery can cause all sorts of malfunctions and maladies. Even if it’s on its second battery that’s still 9-10 years on average which is decent for a battery. See if it holds charge over the next few weeks.
 
danlightbulb said:
Car won't start. Won't even turn over. 11.3v on the battery. Been cleaning it this morning with doors open, could have drained it?

Perhaps this is the problem?

However it was running fine yesterday when I was messing with it.

I'm charging it now.
Click to expand...
Shouldn't drain that quickly but if it's already old certainly could be the problem.

On the plus side you've now got an odb dongle ready to register a new battery (done this on my mini with that dongle)
(Carista app is the cheapest for this, you can either pay for a month then cancel, or I think there may even be a 30 day trial)
 
I have never had any issue starting the car before today, even when cold. No indication anything wrong with battery. Car started yesterday when I was looking at the coolant.

Been cleaning it for 2 hrs this morning with the doors open.

Locking still works.

But only 11.3v displayed on the obd device.

I could go get a new one right now from Halfords up the road?

Or I could call out rac?

Man I don't need this stress.
 
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